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1916 Mercury dime opinions needed

I would like your opinion as to grade and condition because I was considering sending it in or selling it raw. Any help will be greatly appreciated, thank you.


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  • This content has been removed.
  • why should I keep it raw? In hand the coin has alot of luster, reflectivity and pinwheel I just cant get it to show with my camera!!!
  • TomBTomB Posts: 22,083 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Looks AU to me.
    Thomas Bush Numismatics & Numismatic Photography

    In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson

    image
  • tradedollarnuttradedollarnut Posts: 20,204 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>why should I keep it raw? In hand the coin has alot of luster, reflectivity and pinwheel I just cant get it to show with my camera!!! >>



    When you ask for opinions off an image, you're gonna get opinions off what your image shows - not off what it looks like in hand.
  • ok That I understand does the revers exhibit FB ?
  • tradedollarnuttradedollarnut Posts: 20,204 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>ok That I understand does the revers exhibit FB ? >>



    Yes, but they all do. FB is not a positive for the date so much as non FB is a huge negative
  • keyman64keyman64 Posts: 15,539 ✭✭✭✭✭
    AU58 FB....but TPGs will not designate FB on Circulated examples except for the keys for some reason. I do not know why they would grade the coins as they truly are...this has been discussed before. There are plenty of coins that would benefit from the designation on the holder but they refuse. That being said, you have to decide for yourself if slabbing a 1916 in AU58 is worth it to you.
    "If it's not fun, it's not worth it." - KeyMan64
    Looking for Top Pop Mercury Dime Varieties & High Grade Mercury Dime Toners. :smile:
  • ColonelJessupColonelJessup Posts: 6,442 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The reverse is somewhere between badly dipped and cleaned. Yuck. I've never seen die polish like that on a 16P. As made or not they are going to distract and displease many who see it. Some will like shiny white, And there you are! The bands are more than full enough, as noted before, like most of this date. Not great, as are many others.

    The obverse has a fingerprint and non-descript toning. Does it look like the reverse underneath there? Doesn't look like it but I can't grade from images.

    Dipped 63FB coin is the best you'll end up with, lucky at that, and NOT worth slabbing
    "People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." - Geo. Orwell
  • I see, that is to bad that they would not state the full band. I was comparing it to pics on PCGS and that is why I asked because it looks like some of the higher grades. What are some of the defects that bring the grade down? Oh and to bad theres no D on it hey!
  • How do you tell if a coin had been dipped because this coin was in a very old holder from an estate where I bought some of my horns that are from the 1920s. the holder was a little envelope yellowish with a little window front and back. I should have just left it in there. They must have put it in there after they did what ever they did to it. I will just put it in an album for one of my kids to look at.
  • oh I wish iI could give you better pics because it does show pinwheels ans reflective surfaces. YThe pics came from my phone. I am going out to get a maco lens and circle lens flash for my Nikon D3000 tomorrow. Mayme that will help my posts because my digital microscope washes out the coins colors with the LED lights.
  • ldhairldhair Posts: 7,351 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>oh I wish iI could give you better pics because it does show pinwheels ans reflective surfaces. YThe pics came from my phone. I am going out to get a maco lens and circle lens flash for my Nikon D3000 tomorrow. >>


    From what I have seen, this type of lighting is not very good for coins.
    Larry

  • VanHalenVanHalen Posts: 4,330 ✭✭✭✭✭
    In the images it looks like a $25 coin and not worth the grading fees.
  • rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭
    AU.... maybe MS low in hand... Cheers, RickO
  • ElKevvoElKevvo Posts: 4,139 ✭✭✭✭✭
    AU - There look to be quite a few tic marks and some wear on the cap. It is in nice shape for being almost 100 years old!

    K
    ANA LM
  • silverpopsilverpop Posts: 6,745 ✭✭✭✭✭
    AU

    COINS FOR SALE AT LINK BELOW (READ CAREFULLY)
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/oqym2YtcS7ZAZ73D6

  • SamByrdSamByrd Posts: 3,131 ✭✭✭✭
    first I like the coin a great deal , Second as said already the grade is AU58 TO MS62 IMO. the slab fees would be greater then the coins value in the market place.
    One other aspect is the darker paper toning is not as popular. This coin is readily available in nice toned (subjective of course) and even white at a nominal cost.
  • AUandAGAUandAG Posts: 24,936 ✭✭✭✭✭
    If you had it graded and it came back as a MS64, you would lose money. A 64FB is worth about $50 graded
    by PCGS. It would cost you more to get it graded.

    bobimage
    Registry: CC lowballs (boblindstrom), bobinvegas1989@yahoo.com
  • cmerlo1cmerlo1 Posts: 7,960 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>why should I keep it raw? In hand the coin has alot of luster, reflectivity and pinwheel I just cant get it to show with my camera!!! >>



    Grading fees > value.
    You Suck! Awarded 6/2008- 1901-O Micro O Morgan, 8/2008- 1878 VAM-123 Morgan, 9/2022 1888-O VAM-1B3 H8 Morgan | Senior Regional Representative- ANACS Coin Grading. Posted opinions on coins are my own, and are not an official ANACS opinion.
  • LeeBoneLeeBone Posts: 4,614 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Another "keep it raw, it`s not worth slabbing" vote
  • I have to swim across the tide and say grade that bad boy.
  • bestdaybestday Posts: 4,242 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>AU.... maybe MS low in hand... Cheers, RickO >>



    PCGS genuine with details
  • thank you all very much for your opinions, I appreciate it very much. At this point i guess what is important is I like the coin. To me many coins that others would neither like or want I would gladly take. I know for the money value high grade uncirculated coins are the way to go but the hobby side of me likes coins that have some history, imperfections and errors. In other words I don't mind a circulated coin on occasion.
  • luckybucksluckybucks Posts: 1,318 ✭✭✭
    Nice color. I would agree that it looks like a Choice AU. It would be interesting to see what it would grade.

    One thing is for sure, it does have full bands.

    Nice find !!
  • DD Posts: 1,997 ✭✭✭
    I would leave the coin raw. If you were to want to certify and sell a 1916 Mercury Dime it would have to grade quite high to make it worthwhile. (I wouldn't want to submit anything that didn't appear 66FB or better.)

    -D
    "It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it."

    -Aristotle

    Dum loquimur fugerit invida aetas. Carpe diem quam minimum credula postero.

    -Horace
  • OKbustchaserOKbustchaser Posts: 5,546 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Oh and too bad there's no D on it hey! >>



    I know someone who can fix that problem for you.image
    Just because I'm old doesn't mean I don't love to look at a pretty bust.
  • jdimmickjdimmick Posts: 9,781 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Looks lightly wiped and definitely not unc. Honestly, I don't like the coin at all. Way to easy to find a nice 16-P
  • LindeDadLindeDad Posts: 18,766 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Won't clean grade because of the counter marks on the reverse.image
  • BustHalfBrianBustHalfBrian Posts: 4,192 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Ehhh, keep it raw. >>



    ...Because he has no other choice. That coin would not grade.
    Lurking and learning since 2010. Full-time professional numismatist based in SoCal.
  • DeepCoinDeepCoin Posts: 2,781 ✭✭✭
    It is not a bad coin for a raw Dansco set, but I would not get it graded unless there was sentimental value. High grade 1916-P coins are easy to find and there are many available and quite reasonable in price. Many were saved. When I built my high grade No Bands set, I also had a raw set with a few of my early acquisitions (and mistakes). I love the little ladies and there are still a few original Mercateers on the board here. Good Lucik!
    Retired United States Mint guy, now working on an Everyman Type Set.
  • TiborTibor Posts: 3,691 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The coin looks to be cleaned. As for strike, It should be well struck as most first year
    coins are . There maybe a few exceptions by series but the general rule is that first
    year coins should be well struck since the dies being used are struck from new
    master dies. Three or more years into production and the master die starts showing
    heavy use. Keep the coin as an cleaned XF-AU piece.
  • OldIndianNutKaseOldIndianNutKase Posts: 2,715 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The obverse toning seems more like black corrosion to me. If I were you I would dip it and put in your Dansco.

    OINK
  • I know it's probably an optical delusion but anyone else see a faint S mintmark?

    Successful BST deals with mustangt and jesbroken. Now EVERYTHING is for sale.

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