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PCGS Slab Restoration Process with pics as promised in another thread.
bolivarshagnasty
Posts: 7,348 ✭✭✭✭✭
First, let me say that I am sure there a other ways to arrive at this with different materials that could be used. The subject coin started life as a nice bright 43 steel cent in 66. I left it in a cabinet that had been painted with enamel paint, and as you see, the coin eventually corroded in the slab. But this is about scratching and then restoring the window so lets move on.
I then scratched the surface with my trusty 4" Craftsman screwdriver.
And then I stood on the slab and rotated 90 degrees.
I now have some pretty serious condition issues with the slab window. The recovery process started with wet sanding the window with 500 grit automotive paper. Only wetted the paper itself and try and contain
the moisture at the window. When finished, you should have a flat slab with no imperfections present with the exception of the 500 grit sanding marks.
Continue the process with 800, 1500, and 2000 grit automotive paper.
You'll notice that subsequent sandings reveal more and more of the coin.
After the 2000 grit sanding, it's on to the buffer with some white rouge. Takes less than a minute to bring the clear back out on the window. Buffed with the rouge, and then moved over to the "clean" buffing
pad. You may still have to remove some compound from the crevices of the slab, but the window will be bright. At no time does the slab increase in temp. If it does, your bearing down too much.
Now I understand that not everybody has experience in this sort of thing, or has a buffer at their disposal. I wanted everyone to know that the window on slabs can be saved with the proper equipment
and technique. I have also removed those rub spots that you see when you get your slabs back from the Auction houses. They are actually not that deep as the scratches that I put in this window.
As I mentioned in the other thread, I think the worst case scenario is to heat up the slab and coin thus wicking in moisture from the outside. When I performed this process on some of my better coins,
I taped up the label areas, and around the circumference of the slab with tape to prevent any damage to the slab or coin. Thanks for looking in!! Mel
I then scratched the surface with my trusty 4" Craftsman screwdriver.
And then I stood on the slab and rotated 90 degrees.
I now have some pretty serious condition issues with the slab window. The recovery process started with wet sanding the window with 500 grit automotive paper. Only wetted the paper itself and try and contain
the moisture at the window. When finished, you should have a flat slab with no imperfections present with the exception of the 500 grit sanding marks.
Continue the process with 800, 1500, and 2000 grit automotive paper.
You'll notice that subsequent sandings reveal more and more of the coin.
After the 2000 grit sanding, it's on to the buffer with some white rouge. Takes less than a minute to bring the clear back out on the window. Buffed with the rouge, and then moved over to the "clean" buffing
pad. You may still have to remove some compound from the crevices of the slab, but the window will be bright. At no time does the slab increase in temp. If it does, your bearing down too much.
Now I understand that not everybody has experience in this sort of thing, or has a buffer at their disposal. I wanted everyone to know that the window on slabs can be saved with the proper equipment
and technique. I have also removed those rub spots that you see when you get your slabs back from the Auction houses. They are actually not that deep as the scratches that I put in this window.
As I mentioned in the other thread, I think the worst case scenario is to heat up the slab and coin thus wicking in moisture from the outside. When I performed this process on some of my better coins,
I taped up the label areas, and around the circumference of the slab with tape to prevent any damage to the slab or coin. Thanks for looking in!! Mel
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Comments
Thank You.
How deep a scratch could you remove with this process? Would a box cutter scratch come clean? Small nicks to the plastic too?
Lance.
<< <i>For this example how much time was invested on the restoration portion?
Thank You. >>
It takes me less than ten minutes to complete the entire process. As you might guess, the deeper the scratch or imperfection, the longer it takes to 500 sand the surface back to flat.
Lance, The first time I scratched the 43 slab, I did so with a carpentry drill bit that happened to be laying on the counter. I scratched the slab maybe .030 to .040 deep and was able
to recover it in 10 minutes. The 500 grit paper cuts very quickly and you'll have a lot of white residue from the plastic.
Mel
I just had to also add that your work shop is too clean
Rob
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great walkthrough and results!
.
President, Racine Numismatic Society 2013-2014; Variety Resource Dimes; See 6/8/12 CDN for my article on Winged Liberty Dimes; Ebay
<< <i>Thanks for showing the process. If the slab has less scratching, can one start in the middle? >>
Absolutely, no sense in working harder than necessary. Light scuffing might be flattened out with 800 grit. Mel
Great to see the step-by-step and just how damaged a slab can be and still recover!
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I heard PCGS and NGC are both looking into this method.
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bob
That white rouge and buffing wheel is great for scratched plastic watch dials, too.
<< <i>What grit is that white rouge? >>
#31 white rouge