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My Submission From PSA Is Done!

First, I can't figure out how the larger submission that was submitted a month later gets graded first? My submission of 16 cards is almost going on a month and a half pending!

Anyway, I took a beating! Can't believe some of these grades...feel like I pissed money down a drain!!

Somebody walk me off the ledge here... Was I stupid for submitting these cards?

Line # Item # Cert # Grade Description Type
1 1 21290748 VERY GOOD 3 1955 BOWMAN 1 DOAK WALKER Card
2 1 21290749 GOOD 2 1955 TOPPS ALL-AMER. 20 SAMMY BAUGH Card
3 1 21290750 N5: ALTERED STOCK 1955 TOPPS ALL-AMER. 27 RED GRANGE Card
4 1 21290751 VERY GOOD 3 1955 TOPPS ALL-AMER. 34 DAVEY O'BRIEN Card
5 1 21290752 EXCELLENT 5 1955 TOPPS ALL-AMER. 97 DON HUTSON Card
6 1 21290753 VERY GOOD-EXCELLENT 4 1956 TOPPS 101 ROOSEVELT GRIER Card
7 1 21290754 VERY GOOD-EXCELLENT 4 1956 TOPPS 120 BILLY VESSELS Card
8 1 21290755 NEAR MINT 7 1959 TOPPS 51 SAM HUFF Card
9 1 21290756 VERY GOOD 3 1959 TOPPS 40 BOBBY LAYNE Card
10 1 21290757 EXCELLENT 5 1959 TOPPS 105 JOHNNY CROW Card
11 1 21290758 VERY GOOD-EXCELLENT 4 MC 1958 TOPPS 90 SONNY JURGENSEN Card
12 1 21290759 VERY GOOD-EXCELLENT 4 MK 1958 TOPPS 90 SONNY JURGENSEN Card
13 1 21290760 VERY GOOD-EXCELLENT 4 1963 TOPPS 87 JIM TAYLOR Card
14 1 21290761 VERY GOOD-EXCELLENT 4 1964 PHILADELPHIA 91 MERLIN OLSEN Card
15 1 21290762 VERY GOOD 3 1965 PHILADELPHIA 110 FRAN TARKENTON Card
16 1 21290763 VERY GOOD 3 1970 TOPPS 70 GALE SAYERS Card
17 1 21290764 VERY GOOD-EXCELLENT 4 1970 TOPPS 90 O.J. SIMPSON Card
18 1 21290765 EXCELLENT-MINT 6 1971 TOPPS 25 DICK BUTKUS Card
19 1 21290766 EXCELLENT 5 1971 TOPPS 45 LARRY CSONKA Card
20 1 21290767 EXCELLENT-MINT 6 1971 TOPPS 50 SONNY JURGENSEN Card
21 1 21290768 VERY GOOD-EXCELLENT 4 1971 TOPPS 250 JOE NAMATH Card
22 1 21290769 NEAR MINT 7 1972 TOPPS 13 JOHN RIGGINS Card
23 1 21290770 EXCELLENT-MINT 6 1972 TOPPS 65 JIM PLUNKETT Card
24 1 21290771 POOR 1 1972 TOPPS 200 ROGER STAUBACH Card
25 1 21290772 NEAR MINT 7 MC 1973 TOPPS 288 JACK TATUM Card
26 1 21290773 EXCELLENT-MINT 6 1975 TOPPS 355 O.J. SIMPSON Card
27 1 21290774 NEAR MINT-MINT 8 1979 TOPPS 198 STEVE LARGENT Card
28 1 21290775 NEAR MINT-MINT 8 1983 TOPPS 294 MARCUS ALLEN Card
29 1 21290776 MINT 9 OC 1984 TOPPS 63 JOHN ELWAY Card
30 1 21290777 NEAR MINT-MINT 8 1986 TOPPS 374 STEVE YOUNG Card
31 1 21290778 MINT 9 1986 TOPPS 7 WALTER PAYTON Card
32 1 21290779 MINT 9 1989 TOPPS TRADED 83T BARRY SANDERS Card
33 1 21290780 EXCELLENT-MINT 6 2001 UPPER DECK 206 DREW BREES Card
34 1 21290781 NEAR MINT 7 2004 PRESS PASS 4 ELI MANNING Card
35 1 21290782 EXCELLENT-MINT 6 2009 TOPPS 430 MATTHEW STAFFORD Card
36 1 21290783 VERY GOOD-EXCELLENT 4 2009 UPPER DECK HEROES 117 MATTHEW STAFFORD Card
37 1 21290784 MINT 9 2009 PRESS PASS 7 MATTHEW STAFFORD Card
38 1 21290785 MINT 9 2007 SCORE 351 CALVIN JOHNSON Card
39 1 21290786 MINT 9 2007 UPPER DECK 277 CALVIN JOHNSON ROOKIE EXCLUSIVES Card
40 1 21290787 GEM MINT 10 2007 TOPPS DRAFT PICKS & PROSPECTS 132 CALVIN JOHNSON Card
41 1 21290788 MINT 9 2007 BOWMAN CHROME BC75 CALVIN JOHNSON Card
Total Items: 41
Date Received: 3/12/2013
Date Shipped: N/A
Order Status: OK


I have another submission they received 2/1/13 and it has only 16 cards! This submission is still pending.
I'm just having fun building a collection!

Comments

  • tsalems1tsalems1 Posts: 3,455 ✭✭✭✭
    Do you check your cards with a loupe before you sub them?

    If not I think you should invest in 1

    Do a search on ebay for a loupe
    opcbaseball.com
  • No, I never did or have.. I'm new to this! I should still have some value here... Right?
    I'm just having fun building a collection!
  • tsalems1tsalems1 Posts: 3,455 ✭✭✭✭
    I have to say, you got hammered!

    I can tell by the grades you are new to this.

    This is why you must get a 10x loupe if you plan on sending more in.

    Its worth the $20-$30!!!

    opcbaseball.com
  • JustinsShoeboxJustinsShoebox Posts: 1,301 ✭✭✭
    I never use a loupe. Just my eyes and light.

    Honestly, you need to just get acquainted with the way PSA does things and how they grade; what will knock your grades down. Post your scanned cards when you get them back and we can probably help explain it to you on a card by card basis. Understand the nuances of each card that you send in and what makes a submittable card worth it - there are thresholds for this if you're going for value or worth.

    In time you'll get it some people pick it up quick, and for some it takes longer...if you need to buy a loupe, go for it. Whatever will help you understand the process better.

    Edit: It might also benefit you to post scans of cards you might be thinking of sending in for the next order so we can give you some constructive advice.

    I hope the next submission comes with better results!

    Justin
  • JoeBanzaiJoeBanzai Posts: 12,000 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Yes, you have some value here. On the older cards, you have to do a little better than 1's and 2's if you are grading them to sell, on the 60's and 70's anything under a 7 is going to be tough, or you aren't going to make much profit, if any. The Hutson card in PSA 5, one went for $90.00 the other for $135.00. The Sam Huff card you should be OK on as well.

    You scored well on some of the newer cards, but what jumped out at me was some of the low grades you got on the 2000 and later cards. It's my understanding ( I collect the older stuff 50's-70's) that most of the cards from about 1980 on had better be 9's or 10's for them to be worth anything.

    Get a loupe AND a high intensity lamp. Make sure you check for creases/wrinkles, they drop the nicest looking card down to a 5 range.

    My last submission was backwards too. The larger sub that was a 45 day turn, was done well before the smaller 20 day sub.

    You also never said why you subbed them in the first place. To sell? There's nothing wrong with getting the cards for your personal collection slabbed, It's your preference.

    Keep at it, you will become a better grader as time goes by. Remember PSA is not perfect, you might find that some of your cards are undergraded. But that's another story for another day.

    Justin also gives you good advice on posting scans. It's not hard to do at all. Do a search on the subject there are several threads that will tell you how to do it.

    Good luck and have fun collecting.

    Joe
    2013,14 and 15 Certificate Award Winner Harmon Killebrew Master Set and Master Topps Set
  • jay0791jay0791 Posts: 3,552 ✭✭✭✭
    Some good advice.

    Do a little research on a card. If that card goes for 5-6 bucks and grading is that then it not worth the fee if its for sale.
    4 ur own collection is ok

    in some older cards a low 1-2 grade could be worse than selling raw.
    Collecting PSA... FB,BK,HK,and BB HOF RC sets
    1948-76 Topps FB Sets
    FB & BB HOF Player sets
    1948-1993 NY Yankee Team Sets
  • I sent the cards in to be graded because I was hoping increase the value and protect the card. I don't plan on selling any of these cards. I want to pass them on to my boys with hope they have value! Maybe one day in a pinch...I will move them. But right now I'm just trying to build my collection up with hope to pass it on to my boys! Maybe ten years from now they will have some value!


    The older cards I had graded because they were over 55 years old and I thought it would be best to have them graded and protected. Others like the Sam Huff I just expected better grades. I guess it part of the learning process and I will get better as I collect!

    I have another submission I'm waiting on so this will be interesting...

    I really appreciate all the advice.. In the end I love the fact I possess some of these cards.. No matter what the grades are!! I'm realizing 9's and 10's ... Heck 8's are hard to get!!
    I'm just having fun building a collection!
  • Dpeck100Dpeck100 Posts: 10,912 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I think the hardest thing about grading your own cards is seeing what they could be potentially be worth in a high grade and trying to overlook any problems with the card and essentially becoming emotional about their condition. If you see any issues that would knock down the grade PSA will too. You need to be brutally honest with yourself.

    Personally I think you should do a search on EBAY for many of the cards you are sending in and look at the characteristics of others that have been graded by PSA.

    There is also a page on the PSA website that gives a good description of the grading standards and there are examples for you to see.

    Grading Standards

    The reason many cards can sell for so much more then their raw counterpart when graded high by PSA is achieving those grades is not easy. The slightest touched corner can turn a card into a PSA 8 and I am not talking about a ding or a bend.

    I have several thousand cards in card savers that were pulled to potentially grade but have never been sent in because you have to be extremely critical when doing your per grading screenings if you are looking for strong grades. Generally the cards I send in get reviewed at least five or more times. I start with a big stack and it gets much smaller after carefully going over the cards. In the end you can be the worlds best card grader but if you don't have the raw material to send in it doesn't matter. You really are only as good as the cards you get your hands on.

    It appears to me that you simply chose some of your better raw cards and sent them in to see how they did. This is certainly fine too but be prepared for the results that follow. In my last submission I got a PSA 4 that I was prepared for as I just wanted the card in a holder. There is nothing wrong with low grade cards.

    One of the most common overlooked issues are surface issues and I think everyone has had this happen to them. I have had cards come back a PSA 5 and it took me 20 minutes to find the surface wrinkle. Sure enough it was there they never make it up.

    Many use a loop which I am sure is helpful. I use my eyes and a lot of light. I pull the card out of the top of the card saver if need be to examine a corner closer and if the card doesn't appear to be strong enough for a grade I am looking for it gets put in another stack and just goes back into personal inventory.

    Collecting cards is meant to be fun and don't lose sight of that fact. If it quits being fun it is time to quit.

    Good luck going forward with your results.
  • swartz1swartz1 Posts: 4,911 ✭✭✭


    << <i>I never use a loupe. Just my eyes and light.

    >>



    +1


    Looking for 1970 MLB Photostamps
    - uncut


    Positive Transactions - tennesseebanker, Ahmanfan, Donruss, Colebear, CDsNuts, rbdjr1, Downtown1974, yankeeno7, drewsef, mnolan, mrbud60, msassin, RipublicaninMass, AkbarClone, rustywilly, lsutigers1973, julen23 and nam812, plus many others...
  • dennis07dennis07 Posts: 1,842 ✭✭✭
    Someone already mentioned it but I'll say it again-- go look at the grading standard and study that. Before your next submission grade your own cards against the standard. Leave the
    emotion out of it. Post them here BEFORE you submit them and if the scans are good enough you'll know what grade you'll get +/- a grade.
    Collecting 1970 Topps baseball
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