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What is the Best Camera for Coin Pictures
Nickcap
Posts: 977 ✭
What is the best camera for coin pictures?
What features should we look for in a camera for coin pictures?
What features should we look for in a camera for coin pictures?
Morgan Everyman Set
Member, Society of Silver Dollar Collectors.
Looking for PCGS AU58+ 1901-P, 1896-O, & 1894-O
Member, Society of Silver Dollar Collectors.
Looking for PCGS AU58+ 1901-P, 1896-O, & 1894-O
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most any camera will take very good photos
with the right setup
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars
While many cameras are fine for everyday use, taking coin pictures requires more than just any camera.
And lets say under $1,000.
Member, Society of Silver Dollar Collectors.
Looking for PCGS AU58+ 1901-P, 1896-O, & 1894-O
Then of course you need a lens.
<< <i>the photographer is more important than the camera
most any camera will take very good photos
with the right setup >>
I bought a Nikon "COOLPIX", which cost almost $500, to replace old Sony I have used for years. It takes wonderful "normal" pictures, but I've never been able to get it to work on coins. The thing always has white balance and exposure problems, no matter how I set it. I'd love to find a camera that would work, but have no idea what to buy.
<< <i>the photographer is more important than the camera >>
lol, nice. that was the first thing that came to mind when i read this thread title.
.
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Morgan shot on an SX-40.
Proper lighting is more important than megapixels, IMHO.
These were shot with a Panasonic DMC-FZ35, a fixed Leica lense digital camera for under $300, using just natural light.
As you can see, they are not necessarily pro shots with all the lighting techniques and special lenses they employ, but they are certainly adequate for general purposes i.e. Ebay sales, etc.
Good luck with whatever you choose. It really comes down to a choice between pro equipment or something simple to expiriment with.
DSLRs, in general, will grant you far more flexibility in shooting options than AIO Point and Shoot (P&S) cameras. At the same time P&S cameras have come such a long way technologically that they can generate some unexpectedly great images. The problem there is, the "unexpectedly".
My advice is that you get a bottom-end-current-generation Canon or Nikon DSLR body that supports some form of "live view" tethering -and- the best macro lens you can afford. One of many possible solutions which could come close to your $1000 budget would be:
Canon EOS Rebel T3i 18 MP CMOS APS-C (Body Only)
$550
Tamron AF 60mm f/2.0 SP DI II LD IF 1:1 Macro Lens
$500
While I can sing the praises and faults of both the lower and upper end of Canon's DSLR bodies - I've never used this Tamron lens. But, when I first started shooting coins I started with a 50mm macro lens and was certainly able to make more than passible images; Tamron has a good reputation; I do own a couple of their other lenses.
Good luck.
Oh jeez, I just eBayed "Sigma 150 macro" and it looks like these have gone up a lot since I bought mine. Still, I consider the lens indispensable. Even though it's a prime lens, it's so fast and the macro is unbelievably good. I don't think even Nikon has a lens that's AS GOOD for coin photography.
Empty Nest Collection
Matt’s Mattes
http://macrocoins.com
http://macrocoins.com
with a Sigma 105mm F2.8 EX DG Macro lens.
Also, a good sturdy copystand is essential, as well as a remote shutter switch.
An authorized PCGS dealer, and a contributor to the Red Book.
Give Me Liberty or Give Me Debt
2. Read the book
3. Get a decent copy stand
4. Get decent lights
5. Find affordable macro lens and matching body (crop frame will be cheaper)
6. Read the book and experiment
<< <i>Focus more on the lens than the camera. >>
Agreed, a good macro lens is a must.
Recipient of the coveted "You Suck" award, April 2009 for cherrypicking a 1833 CBHD LM-5, and April 2022 for a 1835 LM-12, and again in Aug 2012 for picking off a 1952 FS-902.
When it comes to taking good photos of coins, I'd rank the following in order of importance:
1) Experience - A person who knows what they're doing can make even obsolete equipment sing.
2) Stable foundation (copy stand or good tripod).
3) Good quality macro lens.
4) Good quality light setup.
5) Decent camera capable of hooking up to #3 and a computer with preview, remote operation, and mirror-lock features.
Camera bodies come and go but good lenses are forever. The camera needs a certain level of function to be satisfactory, but decent results can be had even with a point & shoot. If you're serious, you need to be looking at a DSLR. Obviously a $4,000 camera will proabably take a nicer photo than one that can be had for $400, but the difference might be less significant than you think.
It's not pretty, no DSLR, no exotic lens and have been told by some via PM, it's laughable.
The lighting, WB and post editing is crucial.
Here's the rig: Fuji FinePix S3280 P&S, 14MP, 24X zoom, adjustable everything.
Some examples produced by the $111 comical set-up
<< <i>Some examples produced by the $111 comical set-up
>>
morgansforever, Holy cow those are some amazing pics your getting out of that rig!
The 1880-S $1, 1996-D Washie, and 1962 Lincoln shots are out of this world for a sub-$200 outfit!
It's trial n error, patience, being square to the coin, WB, lighting and only doing enough post editing to
present the piece as it looks in hand. I've taken the advise from MD, Todd, TomB, Mark, Robec, Skyman, Jeremy, yourself and others,
and applied it the best I can with what I have.
<< <i><<morgansforever, Holy cow those are some amazing pics your getting out of that rig!>>
It's trial n error, patience, being square to the coin, WB, lighting and only doing enough post editing to
present the piece as it looks in hand. I've taken the advise from MD, Todd, Mark, Robec, Skyman, Jeremy, yourself and others,
and applied it the best I can with what I have. >>
Well whatever your doing keep it up as the results are incredible!
A minor recommendation rotate your coins when your editing so everything is straight...
IGWT and LIBERTY on some of the coins being slanted takes away from the final presentation.
Right on, I agree and will incorporate that into the post editing process.
Time to start doing some reading and picture practice.
Member, Society of Silver Dollar Collectors.
Looking for PCGS AU58+ 1901-P, 1896-O, & 1894-O
Trial n error can't be taught. Great thing about digital photography, if it doesn't fit the bill, shoot again till it does.
My Collection of Old Holders
Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
<< <i>1. Get the book: "Numismatic Photography" by Mark Goodman
2. Read the book
3. Get a decent copy stand
4. Get decent lights
5. Find affordable macro lens and matching body (crop frame will be cheaper)
6. Read the book and experiment >>
We have a winner.......
<< <i>And lets say under $1,000. >>
For $1000, I would recommend a Nikon D5100, a manual focus used Nikon 105mm lens in good condition, a sturdy copy stand, a couple lights, and the ControlMyNikon software. Follow all the other instructions given on how to become proficient and you'll do well.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars
This cam has been in my cross hairs, beautiful DSLR. All the reviews I've read have
slated it as the best deal out there.
http://macrocoins.com
Nice job imaging that cent.
<< <i>While the photographer matters, the camera matters too.
While many cameras are fine for everyday use, taking coin pictures requires more than just any camera.
And lets say under $1,000. >>
I hope you are right. I just bought a Canon 5d Mark III. I hope it will take much better picture on coin than my Canon G2.
My FUJI S3280 P&S works for me, JMO.
<< <i>...I just bought a Canon 5d Mark III. I hope it will take much better picture on coin than my Canon G2. >>
Good choice on the camera. A bit of overkill for coins, but it should do all that's needed. Make sure you shoot tethered, with Live View for monitoring the shot on your monitor, and EFSC will be set automatically.
http://macrocoins.com
<< <i>Recently unemployed, so I have to stick with my current rig.
It's not pretty, no DSLR, no exotic lens and have been told by some via PM, it's laughable.
The lighting, WB and post editing is crucial.
Here's the rig: Fuji FinePix S3280 P&S, 14MP, 24X zoom, adjustable everything.
Some examples produced by the $111 comical set-up
>>
Surely the camera wasn't less than $111!
I used to be a pretty good photographer with cameras that had "film and stuff" inside. I never
used any fancy equipment. Now I need something cheap that I can afford to smash into little
pieces when it won't work.
One of my favorite pictures is of a professional photographer telling me I had far too slow of
film and too little light to get a picture of him. It came out almost perfect because I predicted two
seconds he wouldn't move and and got a nice long exposure. You almost can't tell his mouth is
a blur since light levels were low.
My Original Song Written to my late wife-"Plus other original music by me"
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My used FUJI S3280 14MP 24X zoom P&S was purchased at a pawn shop for $100, a $5 tripod from a yard sale and two
CFL's at $3 a piece. This camera can be purchased new for around $150. Yes the total cost of my set up is $111, not a typo. I have upgraded a bit and bought two matching swinging desk lamps for $20 a piece. So now my rig has cost me $151 out the door.
<< <i>I would be more concerned over a good macro lens than the body. >>
What do you use Todd?
The name is LEE!
<< <i><<Surely the camera wasn't less than $111!>>
My used FUJI S3280 14MP 24X zoom P&S was purchased at a pawn shop for $100, a $5 tripod from a yard sale and two
CFL's at $3 a piece. This camera can be purchased new for around $150. Yes the total cost of my set up is $111, not a typo. I have upgraded a bit and bought two matching swinging desk lamps for $20 a piece. So now my rig has cost me $151 out the door. >>
Thanks.
Cool.
I might not even need a tripod.
- Jim