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PSA/DNA Red Flip group submission May 2012 (POPPAGE #1&2)
jswieton
Posts: 2,870 ✭✭✭
I will be doing a PSA/DNA Red Flip autographed card group submission in mid May. PSA has been kind enough to allow me to offer a large discount for the message board. As most of you know PSA has increased their rates to $25 per card and occasionally offers a $15 monthly special. For this sub PSA has agreed to allow us to get the old $10 monthly special rate.
I have received several PM’s asking if they could get cards graded with just the “Authentic” flip, so I will be placing two subs which will include one sub with a “#” grade and one sub labeled “Authentic”. When you send me your cards, please make it clear which cards you would like graded with a # grade and which cards you would like labeled “Authentic” (without a number grade.)
Instead of trying to figure out exactly what every ones totals will be with shipping to and from PSA, insurance, packing material, and numerous other expenses included in putting together two subs, I am just going to charge a flat fee of $11.50 per card. Once the cards have been returned to me from PSA, I will then get each person an exact total from the post office to return your cards.
Here are the rules for the sub:
1) The cards that pass, will be labeled with the red flip. The autograph itself will not be graded, only authenticated, but the card will be graded if you choose or it can be labeled “Authentic” without a number grade. You may split your sub between the two services. When you send me your cards please make it clear which cards you would like labeled with a # grade and which cards you want labeled “Authentic” (without a number grade.)
2)All cards must be licensed trading cards
3) There are NO tallboys or oversize cards allowed.
4) There are no cards allowed that are valued over $200.00. Please don't play games with this and submit cards valued higher. PSA is being good to us, and giving us a good deal, don't take advantage of them.
5) To participate in this group sub, you must send in a minimum of 20 cards. I just don't have the time to deal with small orders of 1, 2, 5 cards, etc.
6) The price is $11.50 per card, plus the exact shipping totals to get the cards back to you once I receive them back from PSA. If you are unhappy with this fee structure then please don't participate in the sub.
7) I will accept payments via check or money order. If your check or money order bounces, then I will not send your submission and you will pay for me to ship them back to you. You must pay in full when you send me the cards for submission. Once I receive the cards back from PSA I will then contact you with the cost of returning your cards and you can send me a check or money order for the return shipping. I know it is a pain in the butt to send a second payment, but do to Paypal's new rules, I can not except a PayPal gift payment.
8) The submission will be going to PSA the second week of May. The deadline to get me your cards is May 1st. I know it will take some time to get your cards together but if possible, please don't wait until the last minute to get me your cards/payment.
9) When you send me your cards, you must package them in individual CS1's ( or UltraPro equivalent). Please include a detailed inventory list with all pertinent information including your name and CU user ID. Check PSA's submission center if you are unsure how to do that. Please make sure it is clear which cards you wanted graded with a # grade, and which cards you want labeled "Authentic" (without a # grade). You must ship them in a method that requires my signature. Make sure you purchase adequate insurance.
10) If you are planning on participating, please post in this thread with your approximate quantity, and I will keep a running list in this post.
11) Please don't ask me if we can get a better deal with PSA, if you'd like to do that, do it yourself. Again, I think they are being more than fair and generous with their pricing. It works for me, if it doesn't work for you, then don't participate.
12) I am not responsible for PSA's turnaround time. If it takes them a week, that's awesome, if it takes them 3 months, that's not my responsibility. I'll be waiting anxiously just like you.
13)If you still have questions, please ask them in the thread, not via PM's, it's much easier for me to keep track of it that way.
14) Once you have read the rules and you decide you would like to participate in the group sub, please send me a PM and I will send you my shipping/payment info.
I am sorry for all the rules, I just don't want there to be any misconceptions, and in order for everything to go smoothly, I feel it's best to set them from day one. I will also keep the board updated on a weekly basis to let everyone know where we are in the submission process.
Thanks,
John
-------------------------
Card Totals:
VitoCo1972- (received&paid)
huggyface- (received &paid)
Jswieton- rceived&paid
alifaxwa2- (received&paid)
JmHockey23- (received & paid)
ghooper33-(received&Paid)
bigjed- received&paid
gregm13- (received & paid)
BigRed7- (received & paid)
EchoCanyon- 20 cards (received&Paid)
fuj- (received&Paid)
daddymc-(reveived&paid)
stagno33- (received&paid)
Yankees001- (received&Paid)
Reno31- (Received &Paid)
raiderguy10 - (received & Paid)
justin80- (received & Paid)
BPorter26- (received & paid)
eyebone- (received&paid)
SCN member gah76- (received & paid)
yankeeno7- (received&paid)
DavidPuddy-(received &Paid)
goose3- (received & paid)
thenavarro- (received & paid)
initialD- (received & Paid)
I have received several PM’s asking if they could get cards graded with just the “Authentic” flip, so I will be placing two subs which will include one sub with a “#” grade and one sub labeled “Authentic”. When you send me your cards, please make it clear which cards you would like graded with a # grade and which cards you would like labeled “Authentic” (without a number grade.)
Instead of trying to figure out exactly what every ones totals will be with shipping to and from PSA, insurance, packing material, and numerous other expenses included in putting together two subs, I am just going to charge a flat fee of $11.50 per card. Once the cards have been returned to me from PSA, I will then get each person an exact total from the post office to return your cards.
Here are the rules for the sub:
1) The cards that pass, will be labeled with the red flip. The autograph itself will not be graded, only authenticated, but the card will be graded if you choose or it can be labeled “Authentic” without a number grade. You may split your sub between the two services. When you send me your cards please make it clear which cards you would like labeled with a # grade and which cards you want labeled “Authentic” (without a number grade.)
2)All cards must be licensed trading cards
3) There are NO tallboys or oversize cards allowed.
4) There are no cards allowed that are valued over $200.00. Please don't play games with this and submit cards valued higher. PSA is being good to us, and giving us a good deal, don't take advantage of them.
5) To participate in this group sub, you must send in a minimum of 20 cards. I just don't have the time to deal with small orders of 1, 2, 5 cards, etc.
6) The price is $11.50 per card, plus the exact shipping totals to get the cards back to you once I receive them back from PSA. If you are unhappy with this fee structure then please don't participate in the sub.
7) I will accept payments via check or money order. If your check or money order bounces, then I will not send your submission and you will pay for me to ship them back to you. You must pay in full when you send me the cards for submission. Once I receive the cards back from PSA I will then contact you with the cost of returning your cards and you can send me a check or money order for the return shipping. I know it is a pain in the butt to send a second payment, but do to Paypal's new rules, I can not except a PayPal gift payment.
8) The submission will be going to PSA the second week of May. The deadline to get me your cards is May 1st. I know it will take some time to get your cards together but if possible, please don't wait until the last minute to get me your cards/payment.
9) When you send me your cards, you must package them in individual CS1's ( or UltraPro equivalent). Please include a detailed inventory list with all pertinent information including your name and CU user ID. Check PSA's submission center if you are unsure how to do that. Please make sure it is clear which cards you wanted graded with a # grade, and which cards you want labeled "Authentic" (without a # grade). You must ship them in a method that requires my signature. Make sure you purchase adequate insurance.
10) If you are planning on participating, please post in this thread with your approximate quantity, and I will keep a running list in this post.
11) Please don't ask me if we can get a better deal with PSA, if you'd like to do that, do it yourself. Again, I think they are being more than fair and generous with their pricing. It works for me, if it doesn't work for you, then don't participate.
12) I am not responsible for PSA's turnaround time. If it takes them a week, that's awesome, if it takes them 3 months, that's not my responsibility. I'll be waiting anxiously just like you.
13)If you still have questions, please ask them in the thread, not via PM's, it's much easier for me to keep track of it that way.
14) Once you have read the rules and you decide you would like to participate in the group sub, please send me a PM and I will send you my shipping/payment info.
I am sorry for all the rules, I just don't want there to be any misconceptions, and in order for everything to go smoothly, I feel it's best to set them from day one. I will also keep the board updated on a weekly basis to let everyone know where we are in the submission process.
Thanks,
John
-------------------------
Card Totals:
VitoCo1972- (received&paid)
huggyface- (received &paid)
Jswieton- rceived&paid
alifaxwa2- (received&paid)
JmHockey23- (received & paid)
ghooper33-(received&Paid)
bigjed- received&paid
gregm13- (received & paid)
BigRed7- (received & paid)
EchoCanyon- 20 cards (received&Paid)
fuj- (received&Paid)
daddymc-(reveived&paid)
stagno33- (received&paid)
Yankees001- (received&Paid)
Reno31- (Received &Paid)
raiderguy10 - (received & Paid)
justin80- (received & Paid)
BPorter26- (received & paid)
eyebone- (received&paid)
SCN member gah76- (received & paid)
yankeeno7- (received&paid)
DavidPuddy-(received &Paid)
goose3- (received & paid)
thenavarro- (received & paid)
initialD- (received & Paid)
0
Comments
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Everyone knows that has submitted to PSA how much of a PITA subbing can be especially involving potentially hundreds of cards from numerous people....
Personally I would have no problem with John charging a flat rate of say 12.50 per card and having that include the return shipping to everyone (assuming that 1.00/card would cover ship/insurance).
Thoughts?
It would save ALL of us time but mainly John and frankly I don't care if he makes a small amount of money for all of the work if there would be an excess amount leftover.
John I'm going to dig some out and see what I've got this week. Thanks, I've been bugging Mike about doing one of these for a while now. lol
<< <i>......please make it clear which cards you would like graded with a # grade and which cards you would like labeled “Authentic” >>
So a person with only 10 cards would be an annoyance, but you will allow someone to send 20 and have 8 be graded with a number and 12 be graded authentic?
If the numerical sub pops before the authentic sub you will have to set that submitters 8 cards aside to wait for the other 12 to pop, or mail cards to him twice. That seems like more of a hassle than a guy wanting to sub 10 cards.
this is a big undertaking; thanks for taking it on for the community. i submitted a small number of cards in derrick's (raiderguy) recent psa/dna group sub and he did a fantastic job as i am sure you will.
one question: i live in canada, so sending a personal cheque is a virtual impossibility as a form of payment. is it possible to send a regular paypal payment (not a gift) if i add the 3% that paypal charges so i absorb the additional cost?
eyebone
<< <i>
<< <i>......please make it clear which cards you would like graded with a # grade and which cards you would like labeled “Authentic” >>
So a person with only 10 cards would be an annoyance, but you will allow someone to send 20 and have 8 be graded with a number and 12 be graded authentic?
If the numerical sub pops before the authentic sub you will have to set that submitters 8 cards aside to wait for the other 12 to pop, or mail cards to him twice. That seems like more of a hassle than a guy wanting to sub 10 cards. >>
I am trying to be as accommodating as possible. I received a bunch of PM's asking if they could sub cards for both # grades and "authentic" so I figured I would offer both PSA services. It might not seem like it, but it would increase the difficulty of the sub exponentially if I allowed people to send 1,2,5 cards, etc. It is a lot easier to work with one person with 20 cards then 20 people with 1 card.
Yes, the way it will work is if you are subbing cards for both services, I will hold the first order until I receive the second from PSA. If you are only subbing cards for one of the services then I would ship your cards back as soon as I receive them back from PSA.
Thanks,
John
I will have at least 50 to start and will see if I need to add in more
And let's say I had a signed 1974 Nolan Ryan -- possible a 6 -- worth getting that grade? Or no way?
Also, could I put a minimum grade (ie, if it's not a 6 or higher, grade authentic)
*always hated using 'assume' because of Felix Unger
<< <i>Also, could I put a minimum grade (ie, if it's not a 6 or higher, grade authentic)
>>
John, I have a similar question. If a card comes back as slightly short or something, is "authentic" the default? That's what I'm hoping. All my cards I prefer with a number grade but if they're altered for some reason (I doubt any are, just saying) I am hoping they will still slab as authentic. What do you think?
My Podcast - Now FEATURED on iTunes
<< <i>Is it safe to assume* that an 'authentic' red flip is the same as a blue flip?
And let's say I had a signed 1974 Nolan Ryan -- possible a 6 -- worth getting that grade? Or no way?
Also, could I put a minimum grade (ie, if it's not a 6 or higher, grade authentic)
*always hated using 'assume' because of Felix Unger >>
For most cards your first statement is true except for bigger cards where one might be concerned that the card has been reprinted or counterfeited.. I personally prefer if a card that is in a red flip to say the grade for similar reasons as anyone would want the grade over a authentic flip in a non autod card. When it's just authentic there might be alterations or hidden imperfections in the card...But I know others would say for that card to do authentic..
I do believe that if you didn't get the 6 it would go in an authentic holder, but I'm not positive on that one..
<< <i>Is it safe to assume* that an 'authentic' red flip is the same as a blue flip?
And let's say I had a signed 1974 Nolan Ryan -- possible a 6 -- worth getting that grade? Or no way?
Also, could I put a minimum grade (ie, if it's not a 6 or higher, grade authentic)
*always hated using 'assume' because of Felix Unger >>
Blue Flip "Authentic" = the autograph is authentic
Red Flip "Authentic" = the card is authentic, the autograph is PSA/DNA Certified... and wasn't give a grade by either submitter choice or ineligble under the same "A" conditions are regular grading
1974 Nolan Ryan, PSA 6, auto
1974 Nolan Ryan, authentic, auto
<< <i>As values go -- what would bring more $$$
1974 Nolan Ryan, PSA 6, auto
1974 Nolan Ryan, authentic, auto >>
IMO pricing would be similar. I had a signed Elway RC that was a PSA 8 crackout, come back as EOT and was not slabbed. I have since subbed it under a blue flip special and had it slabbed.
<< <i>As values go -- what would bring more $$$
1974 Nolan Ryan, PSA 6, auto
1974 Nolan Ryan, authentic, auto >>
Value wise I don't think it matters... if you are trying resell the card for max value I'd try the blue flip and get the auto graded, for some reason people pay higher prices for a 10 auto grade.
If you are just adding the card to your personal collection I'd go red flip and just get the grade.
<< <i>Is it safe to assume* that an 'authentic' red flip is the same as a blue flip?
And let's say I had a signed 1974 Nolan Ryan -- possible a 6 -- worth getting that grade? Or no way?
Also, could I put a minimum grade (ie, if it's not a 6 or higher, grade authentic)
*always hated using 'assume' because of Felix Unger >>
Unfortunately you can't set a minimum grade.
<< <i>
<< <i>Also, could I put a minimum grade (ie, if it's not a 6 or higher, grade authentic)
>>
John, I have a similar question. If a card comes back as slightly short or something, is "authentic" the default? That's what I'm hoping. All my cards I prefer with a number grade but if they're altered for some reason (I doubt any are, just saying) I am hoping they will still slab as authentic. What do you think? >>
I am not 100% certain about this but from my personal experience I believe this is how it works; if a card is EOT or altered it will not get slabbed and will be returned. You will still get charged for the grading fee. If a card is found to be "minimum size requirement" the card will get slabbed as "authentic" without a number grade. I'm not exactly sure what the difference is between the two.
<< <i>Boardmember stagno33 please turn on your PM. I tried replying to the PM you sent me. >>
I know Joe. LMK if you need his email, John.
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34 for grading
3 Authentic only
37 total.
Dave
I am new to this. I have a question about the $200 value limit. I have several cards that I put together myself for less than $200 that likely would fetch more than that on eBay. Also, the book value of several of the autographed cards that I'm interested in sending in is greater than $200, but the book value assumes a certain condition, and mine are in much poorer shape and worth significantly less. What should I use as a guide? My conscience?
thanks
<< <i>At least 25.
I am new to this. I have a question about the $200 value limit. I have several cards that I put together myself for less than $200 that likely would fetch more than that on eBay. Also, the book value of several of the autographed cards that I'm interested in sending in is greater than $200, but the book value assumes a certain condition, and mine are in much poorer shape and worth significantly less. What should I use as a guide? My conscience?
thanks >>
It is what you declare the value to be, but it would be the market value rather than your cost. It is the amount that you would feel that you were out if it was lost. I would use your best judgement on market value. If it's close I wouldn't worry about it, but if you clearly know the card is worth greater than $200 or $250, then I wouldn't submit it.
<< <i>john
this is a big undertaking; thanks for taking it on for the community. i submitted a small number of cards in derrick's (raiderguy) recent psa/dna group sub and he did a fantastic job as i am sure you will.
one question: i live in canada, so sending a personal cheque is a virtual impossibility as a form of payment. is it possible to send a regular paypal payment (not a gift) if i add the 3% that paypal charges so i absorb the additional cost?
eyebone >>
Thanks eyebone! The submission took longer than I hoped, but it seemed like it went smoothly. I've got an order in and if I receive my submission in time to make this, I'll be joining this group break as well.
"In Al We Trust!"
Looking for Autos of HOFers Charles Bidwill, Tim Mara, Joe Carr, Fritz Pollard, Guy Chamberlin & Bill Hewitt
"In Al We Trust!"
Looking for Autos of HOFers Charles Bidwill, Tim Mara, Joe Carr, Fritz Pollard, Guy Chamberlin & Bill Hewitt
<< <i>Also (this was asked earlier but I didn't see a clarification) are multi-signed cards OK? >>
Yes, multi-signed cards can be subbed under the red flip guidelines as long as they are valued under $200.
<< <i>
<< <i>At least 25.
I am new to this. I have a question about the $200 value limit. I have several cards that I put together myself for less than $200 that likely would fetch more than that on eBay. Also, the book value of several of the autographed cards that I'm interested in sending in is greater than $200, but the book value assumes a certain condition, and mine are in much poorer shape and worth significantly less. What should I use as a guide? My conscience?
thanks >>
It is what you declare the value to be, but it would be the market value rather than your cost. It is the amount that you would feel that you were out if it was lost. I would use your best judgement on market value. If it's close I wouldn't worry about it, but if you clearly know the card is worth greater than $200 or $250, then I wouldn't submit it. >>
JmHockey23 answered this question perfectly. There is no exact number when determining what an autographed card is valued at. A good rule of thumb is to try and figure out what the card would sell for on ebay and that is what the card is valued at. If you think there is a possibility that your card is valued over $200 then please don't send it. Everyone has an idea of what their cards are worth. If you feel like you are trying to slip one past PSA please don't send it. This will just slow down the process for everyone.
<< <i>
<< <i>Also (this was asked earlier but I didn't see a clarification) are multi-signed cards OK? >>
Yes, multi-signed cards can be subbed under the red flip guidelines as long as they are valued under $200. >>
If that's the case, I'll be in for 20 regardless if my order is received in time or not. I've got a few multi-signed items I'd like done. Thanks a lot!!
"In Al We Trust!"
Looking for Autos of HOFers Charles Bidwill, Tim Mara, Joe Carr, Fritz Pollard, Guy Chamberlin & Bill Hewitt
<< <i>JmHockey23 answered this question perfectly. There is no exact number when determining what an autographed card is valued at. A good rule of thumb is to try and figure out what the card would sell for on ebay and that is what the card is valued at. If you think there is a possibility that your card is valued over $200 then please don't send it. Everyone has an idea of what their cards are worth. If you feel like you are trying to slip one past PSA please don't send it. This will just slow down the process for everyone. >>
Thanks for the replies to my value question everyone. Jswieton, would it be possible to pay a higher fee to send in cards valued at more than $200? I'll be sending 20+ items anyway, but I'd really like to get everything slabbed at once! thanks
<< <i>
<< <i>JmHockey23 answered this question perfectly. There is no exact number when determining what an autographed card is valued at. A good rule of thumb is to try and figure out what the card would sell for on ebay and that is what the card is valued at. If you think there is a possibility that your card is valued over $200 then please don't send it. Everyone has an idea of what their cards are worth. If you feel like you are trying to slip one past PSA please don't send it. This will just slow down the process for everyone. >>
Thanks for the replies to my value question everyone. Jswieton, would it be possible to pay a higher fee to send in cards valued at more than $200? I'll be sending 20+ items anyway, but I'd really like to get everything slabbed at once! thanks >>
The deal I worked out with PSA was only for cards valued up to $200, so unfortunately I can't except cards exceeding that limit for this submission.
I emailed my submission for so you can get it ready for my portion. I forgot in the email to say they are all for just the 'authentic' rather than the graded submission. Thanks for doing this. If I get my card before Wednesday the 25th I'll include that as well. If not, I'll send my order to you either way on the morning of the 26th.
Thanks so much again! We really appreciate it.
"In Al We Trust!"
Looking for Autos of HOFers Charles Bidwill, Tim Mara, Joe Carr, Fritz Pollard, Guy Chamberlin & Bill Hewitt
Derrick
"In Al We Trust!"
Looking for Autos of HOFers Charles Bidwill, Tim Mara, Joe Carr, Fritz Pollard, Guy Chamberlin & Bill Hewitt
-Mark