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Possible silver 1943 cent
HAWKEYES
Posts: 1
Everyone,
New member/poster.
I have a coin that I put away many, many years ago when I was a lot younger. I knew/thought at that time that it was different/unique as a 15 old would.
A little background. About five years ago I sent these images to a coin dealer asking for help. The help I got was in retrospect suspect. They offered to take it off my hands for if I remember correctly around $25.
So this is what I think I have, a 1943 cent on a dime planchet. The weight of the coin is 2.4 grams (from a local jeweler). It is not attracted to a magnet.
Opinion to if I’m correct?
Suggestions on what I should do. And can you guess a value?
Thanks,
HAWKEYES
New member/poster.
I have a coin that I put away many, many years ago when I was a lot younger. I knew/thought at that time that it was different/unique as a 15 old would.
A little background. About five years ago I sent these images to a coin dealer asking for help. The help I got was in retrospect suspect. They offered to take it off my hands for if I remember correctly around $25.
So this is what I think I have, a 1943 cent on a dime planchet. The weight of the coin is 2.4 grams (from a local jeweler). It is not attracted to a magnet.
Opinion to if I’m correct?
Suggestions on what I should do. And can you guess a value?
Thanks,
HAWKEYES
0
Comments
The Redbook Professional Edition prices these (retail) at $3,000 in AU. It does not price them any lower. You should get it certified.
Do not clean it.
TD
certify it to make sure its not counterfeit...i tend to think this 43 cent is one forgers have tried to master forever in that reguard
congrats and welcome
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
<< <i>so it really needs to be certified. >>
Exactly! Until it's slabbed to document that it's been authenticated by a recognized organization/authority it will be difficult to sell in the coin marketplace.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
Very interesting. Send the coin to PCGS and have it certified. It will be expensive, but worth it once it is authenticated. If you are able to make it to a major show, show it to Fred Weinberg (fredweinberg.com) and he will give you a free, honest opinion. You can then likely walk it right over to PCGS and submit it for certification.
Good luck!
See http://www.doubledimes.com for a free online reference for US twenty-cent pieces
Just curious, why, if you joined the forum in 2007, is this your first post?? Just shy??
bob
...authenticate/certify immediately! neat coin! and ummmm,
<< <i>If you are able to make it to a major show, show it to Fred Weinberg (fredweinberg.com) and he will give you a free, honest opinion. You can then likely walk it right over to PCGS and submit it for certification. >>
Good advice. Getting it slabbed won't be cheap so letting an expert like Fred check it out first is a good idea.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
<< <i>...authenticate/certify immediately! neat coin! and ummmm,
yes indeed and welcome to the forums as well
<< <i>I agree that the pictures look authentic. I expect that an experienced error collector or dealer would have no problems buying it raw after they've examined it in hand. A caution about pricing, though. I find recent auction records for low-grade pieces (like in the VG-VF range) around $500-$1000. That's nothing to sneeze at, of course. Just don't get your heart set on collecting the $3,000 that another poster mentioned... >>
As clearly stated, that was a retail catalog value in the lowest grade priced.
Neat coin!
<< <i>Would 1943 be a much better date to have on a wrong planchet than say 1953, because of the fame of 1943 copper cents? >>
Yes, because of that, and because it is listed in the Redbook Professional Edition.
<< <i>Would 1943 be a much better date to have on a wrong planchet than say 1953, because of the fame of 1943 copper cents? >>
I view it as more a better date to sell than to have. It's one of the more common silver wheat cents, but also more expensive.
Ed. S.
(EJS)
scans. F/VF, possibly cleaned.....
As mentioned earlier, it's probably the most
common date before 1964, but it brings about
triple or more the value because it's a '43'.
than other dates in the 40's for a good reason:
In a conveyor belt, or group of Steel Cents, the
Silver one's 'blend in' more than a 1942 Silver
Cent would in a group of 1942 Copper Cents.
That's the reason why the 1943 Silver Cent is
a common date for these off metals - they were
not as easily seen or picked out by Mint employees
who were supposed to pluck out the error coins.
<< <i>Major find if it is authentic... I agree with the recommendations above...
Just curious, why, if you joined the forum in 2007, is this your first post?? Just shy??
"Jesus died for you and for me, Thank you,Jesus"!!!
--- If it should happen I die and leave this world and you want to remember me. Please only remember my opening Sig Line.<< <i>There's so many more 1943 Silver Cents
than other dates in the 40's for a good reason:
In a conveyor belt, or group of Steel Cents, the
Silver one's 'blend in' more than a 1942 Silver
Cent would in a group of 1942 Copper Cents.
That's the reason why the 1943 Silver Cent is
a common date for these off metals - they were
not as easily seen or picked out by Mint employees
who were supposed to pluck out the error coins. >>
My thoughts exactly, they do not stand out.
<< <i>There's so many more 1943 Silver Cents
than other dates in the 40's for a good reason:
In a conveyor belt, or group of Steel Cents, the
Silver one's 'blend in' more than a 1942 Silver
Cent would in a group of 1942 Copper Cents.
That's the reason why the 1943 Silver Cent is
a common date for these off metals - they were
not as easily seen or picked out by Mint employees
who were supposed to pluck out the error coins. >>
Plus, the similar colors made it much easier for the planchets to get confused before the striking process. The cent planchets then would not fit into the dime presses, but the dime planchets would easily feed into a cent press.