Crack it out?

Burnie

If you had a coin that graded PR68DCAM in a First Strike slab, but based on that grade you knew it would sell for more raw, would you sell it as is and just take the loss, or crack it out and sell it raw?

SeattleSlammer

Crack it. Why not if you know it will sell for more?

BillJones

Please define when MODERN raw Proof is going to sell for than a certified one if it is in a PCGS or even an NGC holder. I've never seen such a critter. A raw Proof is fraught with speculation about what you THINK is going to get for a grade. That should result in a fairly large discount in the price.

Also I don’t like Proof coins that are outside of holders. It’s way too easy to damage them or have the get some foreign substance on them that results in spots and toning.

Nooker

I've had the same experience. I got a First Strike box of 2010 ASE proofs slabbed, and got back a PR67DC and PR68DC. I've never seen a PR67DC listed on eBay, but a PR68DC recently sold for something like $45. They are selling in the low $50's raw.

I doubt I would ever get a buyer to purchase the PR67DC, certainly not as a Buy-it-Now, and if I list it as a true auction, doubt I will ever get more that say $40.

I plan on cracking out these two coins and selling raw.

Mark

BillJones

<< <i>I've had the same experience. I got a First Strike box of 2010 ASE proofs slabbed, and got back a PR67DC and PR68DC. I've never seen a PR67DC listed on eBay, but a PR68DC recently sold for something like $45. They are selling in the low $50's raw.

I doubt I would ever get a buyer to purchase the PR67DC, certainly not as a Buy-it-Now, and if I list it as a true auction, doubt I will ever get more that say $40.

I plan on cracking out these two coins and selling raw.

Mark >>



Thank you for letting me know how it works. I've never seen a modern Proof (1990s and up) in as low a grade as PR-67DC. The marks must be obvious on that one.

Nooker

ya, my BIG mistake. I should have put down a "minimum grade" on the form, which I usually do. the reason you don't find many low graded slabbed is people will put a minimum grade of PR69, so they will get the duds returned unslabbed, and then sell raw. thing I'm bummed about is that I paid $14+$18=$32 for two coins that I'm gonna end up cracking out.

I'll never make that mistake again.

ambro51

The mistake seems to be you didn't examine the coins carefully before you sent them in. Don't blame the graders

lkeigwin

While not proof, I believe ungraded UHR's with original packaging sell for more than PCGS MS68-MS69's, even with FS labels.

I'm not selling my 69 but the same thought occurred to me. Crack and repackage? It feels a litte disingenuous.
Lance.

DorkGirl

<< <i>The mistake seems to be you didn't examine the coins carefully before you sent them in. Don't blame the graders >>



You can't examine them if you want "First Strike" on the label.

In the OPs case, he did not win the 70s lottery and will make more money with the coin if he cracks it out. So I say, crack it out.

Burnie

To get First Strike after 30 days the coins have to be submitted blind.

jmj3esq

You're kidding right?

jmj3esq

First strike means nothing.

Solo

<< <i>While not proof, I believe ungraded UHR's with original packaging sell for more than PCGS MS68-MS69's, even with FS labels. >>



The UHR's are a different creature though as people buy them raw in hopes they'll get a 'PL' coin. That's not the case with ASE proofs as typically FS dcam69 coins sell for more than raw examples.

Nooker

to complete the story, I submitted a "mint sealed" box of ten 2010 ASE's. From that I got back the following:
PR67DC
PR68DC
PR69DC
PR69DC
PR69DC
PR70DC
PR70DC
PR70DC
PR70DC
PR70DC

so I think I did pretty well getting 50% of them in PR70DC.

if you recall, the 2010 Proof ASE's didn't sell until Nov (there was a fear there would no be any for a 2nd year in a row, and I thought the late year sale may cause this to be a low mintage, high demand coin). Hence I bought ten. A year later I still had the box, so I thought, what the heck, send 'em in and see if you can get yourself a PR70DC. Now I can sell the others to cover my cost.

Mark

Nooker

So I finally got a chance to look at the PR67DC and PR68DC tonight.

milky spots. that explains it.

This certainly is why I think the best way to submit First Strikes would be to take them to a show, sit down at the PCGS table, get the guy to "certify" the mint box is first strike eligible, open it up & then carefully look at your coins and only submit the good ones.

Mark