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PCGS and Redbook disagree
stevereecy
Posts: 203 ✭✭✭
Hey guys,
There is a coin I'm interested in...its a 1943 Double Eye Jefferson in MS63 (PCGS slab). The 2012 Redbook puts its value at around $340 in that exact grade. But I just learned that the PCGS website puts its value at a paltry $140. It is not a full step coin
WTH?
Which guide is right? What does your gut tell you about value?
Steve
There is a coin I'm interested in...its a 1943 Double Eye Jefferson in MS63 (PCGS slab). The 2012 Redbook puts its value at around $340 in that exact grade. But I just learned that the PCGS website puts its value at a paltry $140. It is not a full step coin
WTH?
Which guide is right? What does your gut tell you about value?
Steve
Really enjoying collecting coins and currency again
My currency "Box of Ten" Thread: https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/1045579/my-likely-slow-to-develop-box-of-ten#latest
My currency "Box of Ten" Thread: https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/1045579/my-likely-slow-to-develop-box-of-ten#latest
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If you want better prices go to http://ha.com and look at auction realized prices. That will give you a better feel for fair values.
In my opinion both valuations are much too high.
Auction data for 64s, although still thin, looks like it is just a hair over redbook price for 63.
One thing -- I would be hard pressed to buy a PCGS63 nickel without reallllll good pictures. It could be a real dog.
Successful BST xactions w/PCcoins, Drunner, Manofcoins, Rampage, docg, Poppee, RobKool, and MichealDixon.
My currency "Box of Ten" Thread: https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/1045579/my-likely-slow-to-develop-box-of-ten#latest
Edit: Heck if you happen to find it in a rare Doily Sample Slab it might cost $1500.
Looking for Top Pop Mercury Dime Varieties & High Grade Mercury Dime Toners.
<< <i>This is really amazing to me that the price can be off by more than half. This also makes it really difficult to make spot decisions without computer access unless you just have the prices for a series memorized (ideally), or you have to assing a safety factor to your SWAG price. But a 50% safety factor? Probably won't be able to buy coins if you do that. >>
If you're specializing in a certain series you should probably work on a spreadsheet that has all of the coins you are interested in with pcgs price guide values - designation information (I put the full step percentages from the jefferson nickel analysist into my spreadsheet). I also tend to track auctions and keep my spreadsheet updated with recent hammer prices. The prices I have paid for things that I already own. At some point you get a fell for what percentage of any priceguide is right. Study study study and document the results of your study. The only real downside of this (depending on what you collect) is that armed with all of this information, you're probably not going to end up buying much at any shows (lol he wants THIS MUCH for THIS?!)
<< <i>This is really amazing to me that the price can be off by more than half. This also makes it really difficult to make spot decisions without computer access unless you just have the prices for a series memorized (ideally), or you have to assing a safety factor to your SWAG price. But a 50% safety factor? Probably won't be able to buy coins if you do that. >>
It sounds about right for the redbook,i soon learned approx 50% of value according to the redbook will win me the majority of auctions i compete in.
<< <i>This is really amazing to me that the price can be off by more than half. This also makes it really difficult to make spot decisions without computer access unless you just have the prices for a series memorized (ideally), or you have to assing a safety factor to your SWAG price. But a 50% safety factor? Probably won't be able to buy coins if you do that. >>
Exactly. If you are a serious buyer, you need an iPhone or iPad with internet access and a subscription to CoinFacts. I am seeing more and more buyers and dealers at shows doing just that.