Anyone ever tried doing a key date type set?

relicsncoins

Instead of buying the highest graded example of a common date you can afford, you go for the highest graded key date of the type you can afford. My guess, in the long run your set would appreciate in value quicker than a common date type set.

canadanz

<< <i>Instead of buying the highest graded example of a common date you can afford, you go for the highest graded key date of the type you can afford. My guess, in the long run your set would appreciate in value quicker than a common date type set. >>



I think you're probably right. Would be an incredibly fun set to build but would get VERY expensive before long. And which type set would you do? The 7070 set, or a full 18th - 20th century?

relicsncoins

<< <i>

<< <i>Instead of buying the highest graded example of a common date you can afford, you go for the highest graded key date of the type you can afford. My guess, in the long run your set would appreciate in value quicker than a common date type set. >>



I think you're probably right. Would be an incredibly fun set to build but would get VERY expensive before long. And which type set would you do? The 7070 set, or a full 18th - 20th century? >>



7070 was my thought. Coins that start with 17 are expensive to begin with.

BillJones

Yea, and you will either have a bunch of lower grade coins, or you will never finish the darn thing. I've been working on my type set for over 40 years and still have two coins left, the 1796 No Stars quarter eagle and the 1821-7 quarter eagle. When there are several coins in the set that cost you over $50 grand in reasonable grades, you need to take a break now and then and get away from the expensive stuff. Eye appeal and grade are what count with me. You can leave the over priced, speculative priced key and "rare dates" with those who play the game. My Proof 1896 Indian cent fills the hole just as well an an 1877 Proof Indian cent, and costs a fraction of the amount.

FilamCoins

<< <i>Yea, and you will either have a bunch of lower grade coins, or you will never finish the darn thing. I've been working on my type set for over 40 years and still have two coins left, the 1796 No Stars quarter eagle and the 1821-7 quarter eagle. When there are several coins in the set that cost you over $50 grand in reasonable grades, you need to take a break now and then and get away from the expensive stuff. Eye appeal and grade are what count with me. You can leave the over priced, speculative priced key and "rare dates" with those who play the game. My Proof 1896 Indian cent fills the hole just as well an an 1877 Proof Indian cent, and costs a fraction of the amount. >>



I think Relic is probably right about the ROI, but I also agree with Bill. In terms of pure enjoyment, I'm going with condition and beauty.

LindeDad

I saw one of the sets in the registry that was a first year of the types.

HoledandCreative

For a type set, I prefer the keys in as high a technical grade as I can find. Since I also collect by date and mintmark, I prefer those in as high a grade as I can find, too. But the type set with a key in the spots, that's a coinversation. I've been collecting a long time, and as Bill said "never finish the dam thing". I still need a lot of keys to finish it off and I started in 1963 or 64. Keys are hard to find in the condition wanted. All of the keys is only doable for a few. But keys in many of the spots is good. Collect for the enjoyment and the profit will come. No matter what condition you collect.