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Question re RD Unc. roll of 56 D Lincoln Cents

Decades ago, I decided I wanted an Unc. roll of red wheaties, and picked up this baby. Haven't looked at it in nearly 10 years. I think the coins are MS 65 or better, and can use some advice. Should I take the roll to the next Long Beach and have someone evaluate the coins and send in the ones that might make 6 or 7?

I collect 19th and early 20th Century type, so it's not like I follow this sort of thing. Any comments are appreciated.
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    seanqseanq ✭✭✭✭✭
    If you're going to open the roll, have someone check the coins for RPMs in addition to vetting the grades. It's unlikely that you will find many 67RD candidates, especially if you have a put-together roll vs an OBW, it's way more likely that you will find one of the many interesting and valuable die varieties for the date.


    Sean Reynolds
    Incomplete planchets wanted, especially Lincoln Cents & type coins.

    "Keep in mind that most of what passes as numismatic information is no more than tested opinion at best, and marketing blather at worst. However, I try to choose my words carefully, since I know that you guys are always watching." - Joe O'Connor
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    I'd look for RPM-1, RPM-8 and the OMMs.

    If you're going to open the roll you might as well check them.

    image
    Ed
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    Opening rolls is FUN!!

    Everyone is different, but I think rolls make a tremendous hands on learning experience and I wouldn't take them to a dealer right off the bat.

    For each date/mm I'd sort the coins in the order of highest grade to lowest. Then I'd find some high resolution pics of the date/mm at hand online (Heritage, Bowers, Ebay, TT) and learn the look of each date/mm that grades in the top bracket (67 for your 56D's). And then I look at what is acceptable for 66's. And if the market price of the 66 is about the same as grading fees then let a bunch of them rip to PCGS. Inevitabley some will come back 65, maybe some 66, and you could pop a 67. Then look at them again and try to figure out why.

    Your monetary losses will be minimized if you figure out how to select for coins that will grade 66, and you could make out well if you pop a 67.

    Don't forget to rotate your lincolns to look for field chatter which a well known dealer has pointed out to me several times is a common overlooked grade limiting factor.
    I'd like my copper well done please!
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    << <i>Opening rolls is FUN!!

    Everyone is different, but I think rolls make a tremendous hands on learning experience and I wouldn't take them to a dealer right off the bat.

    For each date/mm I'd sort the coins in the order of highest grade to lowest. Then I'd find some high resolution pics of the date/mm at hand online (Heritage, Bowers, Ebay, TT) and learn the look of each date/mm that grades in the top bracket (67 for your 56D's). And then I look at what is acceptable for 66's. And if the market price of the 66 is about the same as grading fees then let a bunch of them rip to PCGS. Inevitabley some will come back 65, maybe some 66, and you could pop a 67. Then look at them again and try to figure out why.

    Your monetary losses will be minimized if you figure out how to select for coins that will grade 66, and you could make out well if you pop a 67.

    Don't forget to rotate your lincolns to look for field chatter which a well known dealer has pointed out to me several times is a common overlooked grade limiting factor. >>

    Great post! image
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    << <i>

    << <i>Opening rolls is FUN!!

    Everyone is different, but I think rolls make a tremendous hands on learning experience and I wouldn't take them to a dealer right off the bat.

    For each date/mm I'd sort the coins in the order of highest grade to lowest. Then I'd find some high resolution pics of the date/mm at hand online (Heritage, Bowers, Ebay, TT) and learn the look of each date/mm that grades in the top bracket (67 for your 56D's). And then I look at what is acceptable for 66's. And if the market price of the 66 is about the same as grading fees then let a bunch of them rip to PCGS. Inevitabley some will come back 65, maybe some 66, and you could pop a 67. Then look at them again and try to figure out why.

    Your monetary losses will be minimized if you figure out how to select for coins that will grade 66, and you could make out well if you pop a 67.

    Don't forget to rotate your lincolns to look for field chatter which a well known dealer has pointed out to me several times is a common overlooked grade limiting factor. >>

    Great post! image >>



    Thank you. Where else (except in a roll of the same coin/date/mm) is a grading clinic just waiting to be launched?
    I'd like my copper well done please!

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