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Why are Peace Dollars so hard to grade???

beckesbeckes Posts: 158
in U.S. Coin Forum

I can't figure it out? Morgans, jump off the page to me.

Peace, I am looking at a cleaned, an altered surface, and a 64. I am sorry. They all look the same!!!

I might as well melt them all right? (Outside of the few rare ones I own of course.)

Comments

  • fcloudfcloud Posts: 12,133 ✭✭✭✭
    I think it has to do with the washed out strikes. Alway mushy and many look worn out just as struck.

    President, Racine Numismatic Society 2013-2014; Variety Resource Dimes; See 6/8/12 CDN for my article on Winged Liberty Dimes; Ebay

  • PutTogetherPutTogether Posts: 2,141 ✭✭✭
    In my experience, several things make it a bit harder to grade a peace dollar over other dollars.

    First, the bad strikes on most examples. If you aren't used to it, a weakly struck design can be mistaken for wear.

    Second, the Peace Dollar obverse, more than any other dollar, draws attention to the very center of the coin. There is something special about Liberty's face on this series. She really is pretty. Her cheek and slightly parted lips bring attention to that point, which makes it easier to ignore other marks.

    Third, the reverse is PARTICULARLY mushy, and has a lot of places in the rays that small tics in the surface can hide.

  • Tallpaul000Tallpaul000 Posts: 193 ✭✭
    look for the mint bloom above liberty's head. The reverse will have several areas above the eagle with bloom. Other than that, a 55 can look like a 63, especially the 24-35 p mints
  • CatbertCatbert Posts: 7,649 ✭✭✭✭✭
    When I select one for a type set, what date(s)/mint would you recommend for the best strike? Is it better to attempt to find a nice 1921 high relief example?
    Seated Half Society member #38
    "Got a flaming heart, can't get my fill"
  • WeissWeiss Posts: 9,942 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd like to think it's intentional. It's the same with buffalo nickels, for the same reason: the designers executed a more impressionist style instead of the sterile late 19th century classic style. Essence vs. surface, literally. I'm sure I'm not the first to notice that the buffalo nickel in particular looks every bit as beautiful and unique a piece of art no matter how worn it is, from poor through moose MS.
    We are like children who look at print and see a serpent in the last letter but one, and a sword in the last.
    --Severian the Lame
  • derrybderryb Posts: 37,703 ✭✭✭✭✭
    because they are so hard to look at, especially the reverse.

    No Way Out: Stimulus and Money Printing Are the Only Path Left

  • ambro51ambro51 Posts: 13,949 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I agree they are difficult to grade. Having bought a nice 1925 (basically to keep my 64Ds company, and for comparison sake)....it was really a shock to see all the marks and chatter I had missed....came up quite well on the photos. The surfaces satiny look seems to welcome scrapes. The lady is shockingly beautiful though!
  • PerryHallPerryHall Posts: 46,895 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>I think it has to do with the washed out strikes. Alway mushy and many look worn out just as struck. >>



    image

    Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
    "Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
    "Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire

  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 34,847 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>When I select one for a type set, what date(s)/mint would you recommend for the best strike? Is it better to attempt to find a nice 1921 high relief example? >>



    If you are going for all of the types, the 1921 Peace dollar is a one year type by itself.

    For a type coin, I'd look for one where the lettering on the reverse is sharp and clear.
    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
  • 123cents123cents Posts: 7,178 ✭✭✭
    I think they are hard to grade because many of them are sliders that have minimal wear which is sometimes hard to detect.
    image
  • jerseycat101jerseycat101 Posts: 1,360 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The hard part in grading a Peace dollar is determining the difference between AU58 - MS63.

    Otherwise, grading BU coins from MS63 - MS67 is quite easy, as are lesser circulated coins.
  • CoinspongeCoinsponge Posts: 3,927 ✭✭✭
    I hear you. I sent in one or 2 that I thought would grade unc that were untoned with decent luster. They came back "cleaned". I couldn't figure it out either so I don't even try grading Peace dollars any more until maybe the light bulb goes on and I see what they are seing.
    Gold and silver are valuable but wisdom is priceless.
  • beckesbeckes Posts: 158


    << <i>I hear you. I sent in one or 2 that I thought would grade unc that were untoned with decent luster. They came back "cleaned". I couldn't figure it out either so I don't even try grading Peace dollars any more until maybe the light bulb goes on and I see what they are seing. >>




    I bought a 1928-P that was sold at auction. Looked every bit as good as my 64. Much brighter as well. Anyway, comes back PCGS 58. I'm like, NO WAY!

    So I bust it out and send it to NGC, comes back in a bag "PVC"!!!!!!!! There is no way PCGS misses the plastic. I sure don't see it either!

    I give up on these things!
  • beckesbeckes Posts: 158

    Here is the proof! How's that for a nice crackout upgrade?? If I send it to ICG, she might come back as a "FAKE" HAHAHAHA!


    image
  • beckesbeckes Posts: 158


    image

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