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The 43 steel cent

It seems everybody and their mother saved 43 steel cents. All I've seen that people saved now look pretty bad, dull dark gray and many with rust. Were that many saved in a manner so they still look to be in mint shape? What brought this up was just looking through the Red Book and noticing that even in MS grades they're valued very low. I didn't think the zinc coating was very effective so I thought it reasonable to think many saved uncirculated may now look bad, but a lot must have been put away and protected from the elements.

So these are easy to find all nice and bright looking MS?
Remember, I'm pullen for ya; we're all in this together.---Red Green---

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    tightbudgettightbudget Posts: 7,299 ✭✭✭
    Yup. Go to any coin show big or small and there'll be plenty of bright, original MS steel cents for sale. I've even snagged a few nice, rust-free AUs from the magnet in the coin counter at the local bank.
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    newnotesnewnotes Posts: 65 ✭✭
    I got a pretty nice one in change at the local McDonald's last year. The girl looked at, looked at it again, shrugged her sholders and gave it to me with my change.

    I and some of my friends who are about my age get a kick out the panic about the new CFL light bulbs containing mercury. You are supposed to go through all kinds of hoops to dispose of one and probably should call Haz-Mat if you break one. We used to sneak mercury out of science class or even break an oral thermometer and spread it on steel pennies with our bare fingers to make them shiny.
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    llafoellafoe Posts: 7,220 ✭✭


    << <i>I got a pretty nice one in change at the local McDonald's last year. The girl looked at, looked at it again, shrugged her sholders and gave it to me with my change.

    I and some of my friends who are about my age get a kick out the panic about the new CFL light bulbs containing mercury. You are supposed to go through all kinds of hoops to dispose of one and probably should call Haz-Mat if you break one. We used to sneak mercury out of science class or even break an oral thermometer and spread it on steel pennies with our bare fingers to make them shiny. >>



    I used to play with mercury beads on the floor. I didn't have any effect on me. I remember when I was younger, I'd play with mercury; we'd break the large pool into small beads and play with them on the floor. It didn't do anything to me physically or mentally. My friends and I would play with mercury as children... image

    Edited to add: My son has collected a roll of the 43 Steelies... maybe 10 are BU and the rest are circulated.
    WANTED: Cincinnati Reds TEAM Cards
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    CoinosaurusCoinosaurus Posts: 9,659 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The CFLs have about 4mg of mercury - the same amount as in the ink on the tip of your ballpoint.

    I wonder if all the militant CFL types take the same amount of care when disposing of paper with pen marks on it.

    As for playing with mercury - that is not really a smart thing to do. Your body absorbs it, and it doesn't come out.

    Back to OP - there were lots of penny collectors in 1943, so tons of nice ones survive. A neat type coin which I need to get.



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    SaorAlbaSaorAlba Posts: 7,593 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I got one in change the other day when I bought a soda at McDo's. Not only was it not rusty, but probably was an XF. I suspect I got it as a dime and not a cent though.
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    illini420illini420 Posts: 11,685 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I always thought these should be worth more in high grades, but i guess there are just too many of them... I paid just a little over $100 for my near-perfect PCGS MS67 and it's one of my favorite coins since it just looks soooooooo cooooool!
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    rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I have two rolls that I have never opened, likely a few nice ones are included. Cheers, RickO
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    I shouldn't be surprised that many were saved in a way so they would keep their look. I agree with you illini that they do have a cool look, that is the bright mint state ones. I have just one that looks mint fresh and even though it's not worth the money I may send it in to be slabbed just because I like it.

    I remember playing with mercury too; the only affect on kids that played with it that I can see is it may make them become coin collectors image
    I only grew ten toes and ten fingers, no boobs. Oh wait, the boobs came from smoking pot, well,, I didn't inhale.
    Remember, I'm pullen for ya; we're all in this together.---Red Green---
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    Dennis88Dennis88 Posts: 5,797 ✭✭✭
    This is one of the coins I would love to get in MS-68...but they are tough to find in that grade. I do know that they have been increasing in value quite a lot over the last decade.

    Dennis
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    Dennis88Dennis88 Posts: 5,797 ✭✭✭
    Oh, and I did pass on a 1943-S that was 25% off-center this weekend. Probably in AU condition but not too nice. I'm wondering if the $190 the guy was asking was reasonable?

    Dennis
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    RWBRWB Posts: 8,082 ✭
    1943 cents exist in two different weight standards: 41.5 (+/- 3) grains and after March/April 42.5 (+/- 3.5) grains.

    Also, some were struck from electroplated steel and some from hot dipped steel. (I suspect the sharpest coins were from electroplate)

    Lastly, contractors supplied most of the planchets, but each of the mints also made their own early in the year.

    …..Really lastly – a few hundred thousand were struck in 1942 as test pieces and were deemed satisfactory for circulation.

    …….and one more Really, really lastly. 1943 cents were the first US circulation coins to regularly be struck from chromium plated dies. (Proofs were struck from plated dies beginning in 1938.)

    Now that you are bored "cents-less..."
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    jmski52jmski52 Posts: 24,018 ✭✭✭✭✭
    RWB, how many varietal permutations does that all make? I'm still not done working for the day, or I'd start figuring it myself. Are any of these differences identifiable?
    Q: Are You Printing Money? Bernanke: Not Literally

    I knew it would happen.
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    RWBRWB Posts: 8,082 ✭
    Except for the weight, I haven't discovered a way to tell one from the other. No documented samples are known. The weight is also questionable since both versions fall within tolerance.

    All of these also exist for all three mints, except those made in 1942, which are P, only.
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    What was the reason for chromium plated dies? First thought was because of steel being harder requiring higher pressure, but a second thought was how would a thin plating help for that?
    Remember, I'm pullen for ya; we're all in this together.---Red Green---
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    RWB?
    Remember, I'm pullen for ya; we're all in this together.---Red Green---
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    RWBRWB Posts: 8,082 ✭
    Chromium plating was used because experiments in 1942 determined that plated dies did not clog with zinc dust as readily as did normal steel dies. My assumption is that the plated surface was smoother than the bare steel die, and this prevented zinc build up.

    In one test, it took less than 100 impressions to fill the date using normal dies, and more than 40,000 with plated dies. (In this test, the low-carbon steel sheets were zinc dipped, then rolled by a contractor before blanks were cut at the Philadelphia Mint.)
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    ShamikaShamika Posts: 18,785 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Oh, and I did pass on a 1943-S that was 25% off-center this weekend. Probably in AU condition but not too nice. I'm wondering if the $190 the guy was asking was reasonable?

    Dennis >>



    I picked-up a mint state broadstruck 1943-P on a Yahoo auction for a couple of bucks ($25?) years ago simply because I thought the piece looked cool. Although I don't collect errors, I think I was fortunate to have purchased it. Error steel cents seem to be popular.

    Buyer and seller of vintage coin boards!
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    I have a brand new roll my Dad put in a plastic tube and sealed with tape at least 50 years ago, the edges and ends visible are immaculate. I have been tempted many times to open it but worry they'll never be the same again. Does anyone know how should I open, check them and reseal them to keep them this way or are they a lot more resistant to oxidation than I think.
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    lkeigwinlkeigwin Posts: 16,895 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>I have a brand new roll my Dad put in a plastic tube and sealed with tape at least 50 years ago, the edges and ends visible are immaculate. I have been tempted many times to open it but worry they'll never be the same again. Does anyone know how should I open, check them and reseal them to keep them this way or are they a lot more resistant to oxidation than I think. >>

    Yikes! Open it. They'll survive fine. If any look 67 or better, send them for grading. Or at least put them in Intercept holders.

    PCGS-graded 68's go for $2k+. Isn't that incentive enough?
    Lance.
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    Wow, I'm tempted again. I've looked a few times and saw 65s going for a few bucks but never really looked into it beyond that. I have never been much into grading cents above 65. Is there much chance that a truly preserved and delicately handled (I know my Dads handling methods) original roll would even have 67 or 68 material in it? This could be something to look forward to for the weekend.

    Any feedback would be welcome.
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    lkeigwinlkeigwin Posts: 16,895 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Well, the pops suggest the odds are low. But why not take a look-see? What other plans do you have for that roll?
    Lance.
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    You're right, I'm gettin' old. I think I'll let the suspense and anticipation grow for a couple days and go thru them this weekend. I told my wife and son, and believe it or not they weren't all that excited. It's been awhile since I ripped open a pack of baseball cards hoping for a Brooks Robinson, or Boog Powell, this'll be fun. I'll let you know how I do.

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