A dealer with nothing but net priced inventory - your perception?

Years ago when I was avidly purchasing quality, vintage sportscards, I used to deal with a gentlemen named Paul Lewicki. In the mid 1980's, he had a very simple policy: Under $500.00: everything is as marked. $500.00 or over, 10% discount.
Keep in mind, the stuff you could buy for $500.00 back then was unreal.
I have seen few coin dealers do this, and there were when I was a kid so I do not remember their names (I am 44).
What is public perception of this from those of you who do shows? Would this dissuade you from doing business with someone, or would you find this kind of static business model refreshing, up front, and void of BS??
I am pretty horrible at judging these kinds of things, so I would welcome your input.
Thanks, and have a nice evening.
Greg
Keep in mind, the stuff you could buy for $500.00 back then was unreal.
I have seen few coin dealers do this, and there were when I was a kid so I do not remember their names (I am 44).
What is public perception of this from those of you who do shows? Would this dissuade you from doing business with someone, or would you find this kind of static business model refreshing, up front, and void of BS??
I am pretty horrible at judging these kinds of things, so I would welcome your input.
Thanks, and have a nice evening.
Greg
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"If the final price is acceptable, what's the difference how you got there?"
That's what counts...
rainbowroosie April 1, 2003
<< <i>If the final price is acceptable, what's the difference how you got there? >>
yep
So I guess that's a flip-flop for me.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
<< <i>Rethinking my original post, since I typically buy world coins, I actually prefer sellers who mark their coins at catalog and offer a discount from there as opposed to determining for themselves what the "real" retail price should be. >>
Aren't they determining for themselves what the "real" retail price should be when they determine what discount they give you?
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
My best customers know I price fairly and there in NO problem with them.
Why is it the everyone expects a discount?
It always for better or + grades they want
I can get more from dealer in most cases so I wholesale more now, dealers win and the retail customes looses since the wholesaler pays more.
Probably 90% of his inventory had NET on them and to me a collector he said that was the price
no lower..... maybe to a bulk buyer or dealer he might offer some discount don't know...
His NET seemed to be Gray Sheet bid...... I did get a nice 1834 O-114 in NGC 40 real nice original crusty Lady.
Very pleased with the purhase....
Also knew not to haggle so made it a bit easier,, either I was willing to pay the NET or not......
Jim
When a man who is honestly mistaken hears the truth, he will either quit being mistaken or cease to be honest....Abraham Lincoln
Patriotism is supporting your country all the time, and your government when it deserves it.....Mark Twain
The late Steve Tannenbaum priced almost everything at 10% off the price marked. It worked fine with me.
<< <i>If everything is 10% off, why not just mark it so?? It's just a mind game, making the buyer think they got a deal. >>
As a retired dealer I can tell that the first question that comes out of most tire kickers mouths is, "Can you do any better." Most buyers seem to expect a "discount." Rather play hardball with the prices I found that it was better to just put a little room in the marked price. And if they bought the item at the price marked, I'd mark down a bit. Sure, I might have lost of revenue doing that, but it got me some repeat customers too.
<< <i>
<< <i>If everything is 10% off, why not just mark it so?? It's just a mind game, making the buyer think they got a deal. >>
As a retired dealer I can tell that the first question that comes out of most tire kickers mouths is, "Can you do any better." Most buyers seem to expect a "discount." Rather play hardball with the prices I found that it was better to just put a little room in the marked price. And if they bought the item at the price marked, I'd mark down a bit. Sure, I might have lost of revenue doing that, but it got me some repeat customers too. >>
Wish you were still active and I could afford the quality that you have always sought out in coins and tokens.
Whatever you do, don't negotiate. It's a sign of weakness and an invitation to be taken advantage of.
Whatever makes you think you have any better idea what it's worth than he does? Bluesheet says you should pay WHAT?
I show someone (a dealer) a better date Saint in 64. Quote $9500 with 64 bid at 7500 and 65 bid at $32K. "Is that your best price?" "No, my best price is the 11K I paid, but it didn't grade what I expected".
BTW, closed the deal at $9100
He flipped it the next day for $9400 and bought me Starbucks.
A shame you missed this bargain.
Just walk on......
Yeah, I have an attitude. Want to make something of it?
during dealer set up. The concept of net pricing doesn't bother me though. And like someone else said, I prefer that to gross overpricing listed, but then willing to come way down to sell a coin. I'm sure I've passed up good coins knowing what I know about some dealers now, previously thinking we were way too far apart when in reality he was willing to deep discount it from his bs price.
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<< <i>Rethinking my original post, since I typically buy world coins, I actually prefer sellers who mark their coins at catalog and offer a discount from there as opposed to determining for themselves what the "real" retail price should be. >>
Aren't they determining for themselves what the "real" retail price should be when they determine what discount they give you? >>
I didn't really explain it very well. I need to know how the price I'm paying relates to the catalog value, so my first question is "Are these priced at catalog?" If so, I'll ask if the prices are net, or is there any room for a discount? And if the latter, I'll try to get a rough approximation of what percentage it might be. That way (if the marked prices are current catalog prices) and the dealer will offer 15-20% (or whatever) off, I can figure which coins will be profitable for me. Some coins, I'd need to buy at half catalog to make anything on, but others, I can pay over catalog and still do okay.
Bottom line- I need to know where the "starting point" is- and that's the catalog value. If the dealer prices things based on his own idea of what the coins are worth, I have no way of relating them to catalog values. And with four centuries of world coin catalogs being about 12" of telephone book thickness pages, there's no way to memorize pricing for all but the tiniest number of coins- I'm certainly not going to be carrying them around with me.
<< <i>If the final price is acceptable, what's the difference how you got there? >>
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<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>Rethinking my original post, since I typically buy world coins, I actually prefer sellers who mark their coins at catalog and offer a discount from there as opposed to determining for themselves what the "real" retail price should be. >>
Aren't they determining for themselves what the "real" retail price should be when they determine what discount they give you? >>
I didn't really explain it very well. I need to know how the price I'm paying relates to the catalog value, so my first question is "Are these priced at catalog?" If so, I'll ask if the prices are net, or is there any room for a discount? And if the latter, I'll try to get a rough approximation of what percentage it might be. That way (if the marked prices are current catalog prices) and the dealer will offer 15-20% (or whatever) off, I can figure which coins will be profitable for me. Some coins, I'd need to buy at half catalog to make anything on, but others, I can pay over catalog and still do okay.
Bottom line- I need to know where the "starting point" is- and that's the catalog value. If the dealer prices things based on his own idea of what the coins are worth, I have no way of relating them to catalog values. And with four centuries of world coin catalogs being about 12" of telephone book thickness pages, there's no way to memorize pricing for all but the tiniest number of coins- I'm certainly not going to be carrying them around with me.
How relevant are catalog prices? Are they very accurate and up to date?
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
<< <i>How relevant are catalog prices? Are they very accurate and up to date? >>
Not always accurate or up to date, but that's what a lot of people use anyway. For items you don't have any experience with, it's all there is to go on- you have to start somewhere. Once you figure out where it's safe to vary from catalog prices, there are opportunities.
Just tell your wife that you got the coin on sale for 10% off and she will approve of all your purchases!
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