It's back - eBay auction - massive clip on a 1922 Plain cent
seanq
Posts: 8,636 ✭✭✭✭✭
Auction link
The images from that auction are below. My first reaction was "damaged / fake", but I don't see anything conclusive in the photos to back that up. The clip is a little too round but not impossibly so; there is no hint of Blakesley effect though on a large clip that alone is not damning evidence; the way the clip cuts across the design it's hard to see if there is any metal flow, but the top of the C in CENT and the bottom of the U in UNITED look right.
I guess I'm having a very hard time wrapping my mind around the possibility that this could be legit. I tlooks too good to be true, so it probably is... right? But then the alternative, that someone mangled a real AU 1922 plain, is equally mind-boggling. I guess it could be a very good counterfeit that someone clipped to keep it from being passed off as genuine? It is the kind of coin that TPGs were made for, and if I had a spare $2 grand around to gamble with I'd seriously consider taking a shot at it.
Sean Reynolds
The images from that auction are below. My first reaction was "damaged / fake", but I don't see anything conclusive in the photos to back that up. The clip is a little too round but not impossibly so; there is no hint of Blakesley effect though on a large clip that alone is not damning evidence; the way the clip cuts across the design it's hard to see if there is any metal flow, but the top of the C in CENT and the bottom of the U in UNITED look right.
I guess I'm having a very hard time wrapping my mind around the possibility that this could be legit. I tlooks too good to be true, so it probably is... right? But then the alternative, that someone mangled a real AU 1922 plain, is equally mind-boggling. I guess it could be a very good counterfeit that someone clipped to keep it from being passed off as genuine? It is the kind of coin that TPGs were made for, and if I had a spare $2 grand around to gamble with I'd seriously consider taking a shot at it.
Sean Reynolds
Incomplete planchets wanted, especially Lincoln Cents & type coins.
"Keep in mind that most of what passes as numismatic information is no more than tested opinion at best, and marketing blather at worst. However, I try to choose my words carefully, since I know that you guys are always watching." - Joe O'Connor
"Keep in mind that most of what passes as numismatic information is no more than tested opinion at best, and marketing blather at worst. However, I try to choose my words carefully, since I know that you guys are always watching." - Joe O'Connor
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Comments
You're the expert...
<< <i>Auction link
The images from that auction are below. My first reaction was "damaged / fake", but I don't see anything conclusive in the photos to back that up. The clip is a little too round but not impossibly so; there is no hint of Blakesley effect though on a large clip that alone is not damning evidence; the way the clip cuts across the design it's hard to see if there is any metal flow, but the top of the C in CENT and the bottom of the U in UNITED look right.
I guess I'm having a very hard time wrapping my mind around the possibility that this could be legit. I tlooks too good to be true, so it probably is... right? But then the alternative, that someone mangled a real AU 1922 plain, is equally mind-boggling. I guess it could be a very good counterfeit that someone clipped to keep it from being passed off as genuine? It is the kind of coin that TPGs were made for, and if I had a spare $2 grand around to gamble with I'd seriously consider taking a shot at it.
Sean Reynolds >>
I think (and I could be wrong) that a non-error version of that coin is more desirable than an a clipped one.
My Early Large Cents
As Sean says, the lack of obvious Blakesley effect isn't necessarily a problem because large clips behave differently... and I do see some metal flow and broadening of the rim opposite the clip, even if not a lot.
Seller says "All coins are guaranteed to be authentic for life and may be returned anytime for a 100% refund."
I think that it might be worth snagging the coin and sending it to our hosts for their opinion. Probably would be considerate to let the seller know that you're doing so, and that the item will be returned under the authenticity guarantee in a few weeks if they come back negative. Seller has nearly 20,000 feedback, 99.7% positive. My guess is that they'd honor their guarantee. That means the real gamble is more like $100 for slabbing and postage, not $2000 for the BIN price.
I'd be interested in hearing Fred's opinion... but if he thinks it's likely good, then he might take the BIN himself...
<< <i>Sean,
Thanks for the link(s).
First thing I'd want to see is the 'inside' of the
clipped area, to be sure it has the proper
'cut and tear' marks.......
As you mentioned in the thread, sometimes
large clips like this do not show the Blakesley
Effect very well, or at all.
It's bothersome that there appears to be no
metal flow, and I would also at least question
the possibility that the coin itself is a Chinese
Fake.....
From just seeing the good scans, with the above
questions, I think the only way to authenticate
it is to verify the 'cut/tear' marks inside the clip......
(you're welcome to use the above reply in the
thread if you want - I'm busy doing PCGS Error
authentications, and I just took a short break after
the first three hours!)
Fred >>
I'm going to ask the seller for more pictures of the edge, I'll update the thread if I get a reply.
Sean Reynolds
"Keep in mind that most of what passes as numismatic information is no more than tested opinion at best, and marketing blather at worst. However, I try to choose my words carefully, since I know that you guys are always watching." - Joe O'Connor
If you look at the reverse of the coin you won't see any hint of Blakesley effect, and while it is present on the obverse it is quite subtle. With a little circulation it would be almost indistinguishable. Also look at the first letter A of AMERICA, just a tiny point was struck, and compare it to the C of CENT and U of UNITED on the 1922 cent. Those similarities are part of my argument in favor of the coin.
Now step back and look at the overall shape of the clip. It shows better on the reverse picture, but the clip is not perfectly round. There are two causes for this: first the metal is under more effective pressure than a normal strike because there is less of it resisting the downward force of the dies. Second, where the clipped edge does not contact the collar the metal is able to flow between the dies as well as into the dies. As a result, at points where the struck coin would be thinnest (where the fields overlap front and back) the clipped edge tends to get slightly warped. This is a big strike against the 1922 being genuine.
Sean Reynolds
"Keep in mind that most of what passes as numismatic information is no more than tested opinion at best, and marketing blather at worst. However, I try to choose my words carefully, since I know that you guys are always watching." - Joe O'Connor
I don't like it. Look at the reverse rim just in from the clip at either end. See the damage? That looks to me like the coin (most likely a Chinese counterfeit, but that is just a guess) was put under a planchet cutter and sheared downwards. The pressure of the cut damaged the rim.
TD
Lance.
<< <i>Just got here.
I don't like it. Look at the reverse rim just in from the clip at either end. See the damage? That looks to me like the coin (most likely a Chinese counterfeit, but that is just a guess) was put under a planchet cutter and sheared downwards. The pressure of the cut damaged the rim.
TD >>
You may be on to something. The rim at either side of the clip on the reverse looks slightly flattened as well, at first glance I think I took this for weakness but it does extend out into the fields at either end.
Now if the coin was cut after the strike from reverse to obverse, I'd expect to see some flash on the obverse at the edge of the clip. Sure enough, if you look at the edge of the clip behind the head there look like little parallel horizontal file marks where the flash was removed. Look closer to the neck/shoulder area and it looks like a small bit of raised metal is still there.
I'll tell you what, if this ends up a Chinese counterfeit, then they are getting scarily good. It was only the impossibility of the error that slowed me down to study it this hard. Had they aimed lower (i.e., if that was a 1922-D and the price $195), they might already have my money.
Sean Reynolds
"Keep in mind that most of what passes as numismatic information is no more than tested opinion at best, and marketing blather at worst. However, I try to choose my words carefully, since I know that you guys are always watching." - Joe O'Connor
It's hard to imagine anyone taking a 1922-plain that looks to be AU (if not better) and then damaging it to give the illusion of being a clip.
1997-present
Russ, NCNE
When I see key coins like this I wonder if they were real coins that might have been holed or damaged then given a fake clip because they had little to loose by trying it.
<< <i>It also think it has had Deller's Darkener applied.. >>
It does have that look!
conveniently ( ??? ) not there.
I don't like this one either Sean.
President, Racine Numismatic Society 2013-2014; Variety Resource Dimes; See 6/8/12 CDN for my article on Winged Liberty Dimes; Ebay
<< <i>The coin likely had severe damage, and a way to remediate that was to clip off the damaged section. >>
I'm coming around to this way of thinking, if the coin was already ruined by a hole or other problem, why not try and turn it into something more interesting. I've requested edge pics, I'll update the post if I receive them.
Sean Reynolds
"Keep in mind that most of what passes as numismatic information is no more than tested opinion at best, and marketing blather at worst. However, I try to choose my words carefully, since I know that you guys are always watching." - Joe O'Connor
Jon
The 1877 IHC clipped in half:
thread with the 1877 clip
<< <i>I would stay away, too many questions! >>
Yup. This is the type of coin that I would only buy in a NGC or PCGS slab.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
<< <i>I'm not 100% sure, but I think that very probably that it is a fake. The primary reasons in my mind (other than being naturally suspicious because it's a '22 plain), are that there are some raised areas of metal along the edge of the clip, between "C" and "O" on the reverse, and also some raised metal between the wheat stalk and "N" of UNITED. Also, there are gouge-like marks on the rim next to the clip, above the "N" of "IN" on the obverse, and below the bust on the obverse.The same rim damage is visible on the opposite side of the coin as well, all of which would have been made when the fake clip was being produced.
Jon >>
The bit of raised metal between the bottom of the C and the O is the upper tip of the C. The bit of raised metal between the N and the wheat stalk is the bottom of the U of UNITED.
The rim damage, which is most damaging, I had previously mentioned.
TD
a picture of the clip, from the side...would be helpful.
like others say....this needs an expert evaluation (PCGS NGC OR ANACS) and the fact that it does NOT have that....??????
First, the relatively even cuts just above the first "u" in Pluribus - could it be that someone was "testing" the cut before actually doing so?
Second, the clip itself appears fresher than the surface of the coin would suggest... notice how the edge of the clip - more prominent on the reverse - is lighter than the rest of the coin? If this were original, would not the surface color/wear/tone of the coin be relatively uniform throughout?
A Truth That's Told With Bad Intent
Beats All The Lies You Can Invent
My Early Large Cents
<< <i>I tried to email the seller to ask him for a pic of the clipped edge and the ebay form said that the seller doesnt take questions. WTH? >>
I had no problem sending one yesterday and the form loaded up again just now. Are you clicking on the "Ask a question" link at the bottom of the auction or trying to go through his feedback profile, because the latter is no longer allowed unless you have an active transaction with the seller.
Either way, he lists his email address and phone number right in the listing. I encourage you to request the edge pics as well, maybe if enough people ask he'll respond.
Sean Reynolds
"Keep in mind that most of what passes as numismatic information is no more than tested opinion at best, and marketing blather at worst. However, I try to choose my words carefully, since I know that you guys are always watching." - Joe O'Connor
The 99.7% FB rating is astounding considering the quality level of coins here. The seller's 100% lifetime guarantee of authenticity is only as good as their coins.
seller's 16-d dime
With the mint mark on the 16-d so worn it's hard for me to tell if it's ok with the center not visible. The general shape, position, angle, etc. seems to fit the markers for a genuine piece.
roadrunner
Also, what is that squiggle below "WE TR"?
TD
<< <i>Any guesses as to that "thing" on the obverse rim at 3 o'clock? I can't tell if it is raised or depressed.
Also, what is that squiggle below "WE TR"?
TD >>
The thing at K-3 on the rim is raised, it looks like a large rim bump, which would be odd on a coin with so little circulation wear. The more I look, the more I see wrong with it - there is another flat spot on the rim near the top of the clip, above the IN, and one more near the other side of the clip under the bust. I'm about 98% convinced now that the clip is fake, and almost as convinced that the coin itself is real. What still has me at a loss is why someone would mangle a five-figure coin like that unless they were cutting off an area which was heavily damaged.
Sean Reynolds
"Keep in mind that most of what passes as numismatic information is no more than tested opinion at best, and marketing blather at worst. However, I try to choose my words carefully, since I know that you guys are always watching." - Joe O'Connor
Will await word from a major TPG as to whether or not the coin is a fake. Anybody who buys it without a TPG opinion is a gambler who would take the Cubbies to win the World Series straight up.........
MOO
TD
Sean Reynolds
"Keep in mind that most of what passes as numismatic information is no more than tested opinion at best, and marketing blather at worst. However, I try to choose my words carefully, since I know that you guys are always watching." - Joe O'Connor
TD
The edge photos are there but those pics don't help.
the added edge view pics look off - edge does not seem to be 90 degrees or pinched
The clip is 100% fake, and the edge pictures seal it. Any striations or flow lines should be vertical from face to face, in the images provided they are parallel to the face, meaning someone probably cleaned up the edge after the coin was cut. In addition there should be a transition line on the edge running parallel to the faces, smooth on one side and slightly granular on the other. This line is evidence of the transition from cutting to tearing when the planchet was originally punched. In the images the edge is perfectly uniform and smooth.
The only mystery now is why someone would mangle a genuine high-grade 1922 Plain. The only logical reason I can come up with is that the missing portion had suffered severe damage and someone thought removing it and passing the coin off as a planchet error was preferable to the damage.
Sean Reynolds
"Keep in mind that most of what passes as numismatic information is no more than tested opinion at best, and marketing blather at worst. However, I try to choose my words carefully, since I know that you guys are always watching." - Joe O'Connor
Lane
See http://www.doubledimes.com for a free online reference for US twenty-cent pieces