Need to remove verdigris from this Libertas Medal

AnkurJ · January 13, 2011 1:54PM

How should I do it?
I've read soak in olive oil or mineral oil. Which is better? The only reason I want to remove it is because its active and will continue corroding the medal.

AJ

BAJJERFAN · January 13, 2011 1:57PM

<< How should I do it?
I've read soak in olive oil or mineral oil. Which is better? The only reason I want to remove it is because its active and will continue corroding the medal.

AJ >>

Can you still get VerdiGone? If not I could offer a suggestion.

Coinosaurus · January 13, 2011 2:05PM

Looks like an NCS job. Let the pros deal with it.

AnkurJ · January 13, 2011 2:09PM

I sent it to NCS, they wouldnt do anything because they couldnt confirm its authenticity. It was confirmed authentic by Joe Levine, NCS just didnt want to chance it.

commoncents05 · January 13, 2011 2:21PM

There is a difference between verdigris and corrosion. This is corrosion, and undoubtedly active.

-Paul

AnkurJ · January 14, 2011 12:36AM

Any other suggestions?

PerryHall · January 14, 2011 12:53AM

A long soak in mineral oil (olive oil can turn rancid) while occasionally using a toothpick to scrape away any soft/loose verdigris.

Walkerguy21D · January 14, 2011 1:12AM

I agree with Perryhall - at the least, it won't hurt it and should stop the progress.

Steve27 · January 14, 2011 1:40AM

Mineral oil will not remove verdigris; try this http://www.verdigone.com

jamesfsm · January 14, 2011 1:59AM

I thought NCS would conserve anything offered up. I did not realize they turned away work if the coin was borderline authentic.

AnkurJ · February 1, 2011 4:39AM

Update! The medal was confirmed to be authentic by Joe Levine. However, NCS does not wish to conserve it.
Frankly, I just want the active verdigris to be removed.

Any further suggestions?

Steve27 · February 1, 2011 4:42AM

LINK

AnkurJ · February 1, 2011 4:51AM

<< LINK >>

Is that the same as verdigone? It's listed under a different name.

llafoe · February 1, 2011 4:52AM

Dremel?

coindeuce · February 1, 2011 5:14AM

In this specific case, it won't matter what you find is effective in removing the verdigris. The underlying surfaces have already likely been damaged, so the medal will look as bad or worse than it already does. A lengthy soak of MS-70 will remove the green and some of the red verdigris, however I'm certain that once removed it will reveal heavily etched surfaces.

AnkurJ · February 1, 2011 5:18AM

<< In this specific case, it won't matter what you find is effective in removing the verdigris. The underlying surfaces have already likely been damaged, so the medal will look as bad or worse than it already does. A lengthy soak of MS-70 will remove the green and some of the red verdigris, however I'm certain that once removed it will reveal heavily etched surfaces. >>

Yes, you are correct, and I am ready for that. But at least it will stop further damage. What is MS-70?

Alltheabove76 · February 1, 2011 5:25AM

<< 

<< In this specific case, it won't matter what you find is effective in removing the verdigris. The underlying surfaces have already likely been damaged, so the medal will look as bad or worse than it already does. A lengthy soak of MS-70 will remove the green and some of the red verdigris, however I'm certain that once removed it will reveal heavily etched surfaces. >>

Yes, you are correct, and I am ready for that. But at least it will stop further damage. What is MS-70? >>

MS70 is basically ammonia

rld14 · February 1, 2011 5:37AM

<< 

<< In this specific case, it won't matter what you find is effective in removing the verdigris. The underlying surfaces have already likely been damaged, so the medal will look as bad or worse than it already does. A lengthy soak of MS-70 will remove the green and some of the red verdigris, however I'm certain that once removed it will reveal heavily etched surfaces. >>

Yes, you are correct, and I am ready for that. But at least it will stop further damage. What is MS-70? >>

I have some, remind me and I'll bring it on Friday.

Steve27 · February 1, 2011 5:46AM

"MS70 is basically ammonia "

Not true, according to the manufacturer "MS-70 is a blend of industrial detergents and surfactants designed to remove surface contamination from metal without disturbing the metal surface itself.
Surface contamination can be seen as PVC, tarnish, fog, oil, dirt, etc. "

However, MS70 will not remove verdigris.

Steve27 · February 1, 2011 5:47AM

<< 

<< LINK >>

Is that the same as verdigone? It's listed under a different name. >>

It's their latest version of verdigone.

AMRC · February 1, 2011 6:08AM

The only way to get that off is with a scraper. How steady is your hand?

shorecoll · February 1, 2011 6:25AM

FYI, the EAC guys use soft rose thorns instead of toothpicks. If you don't have any rosebushes, take your pocketknife with you next time you visit a plant store (kidding).

coindeuce · February 2, 2011 5:52AM

<< 

<< 

<< In this specific case, it won't matter what you find is effective in removing the verdigris. The underlying surfaces have already likely been damaged, so the medal will look as bad or worse than it already does. A lengthy soak of MS-70 will remove the green and some of the red verdigris, however I'm certain that once removed it will reveal heavily etched surfaces. >>

Yes, you are correct, and I am ready for that. But at least it will stop further damage. What is MS-70? >>

MS70 is basically ammonia >>

What???? MS-70 is anything but ammonia. It is a highly concentrated basic solution of surfactant, with a pH level similar to lye, although nowhere near as caustic as lye. MS-70 has been reformulated in the past couple years from a fairly "watery" viscosity to a very syrupy, almost gel-like consistency. It is very effective for the type of surface contamination that is evident on your medal. MS-70 is available in a plastic 8 fluid oz. bottle from most major numismatic supply distributors.

BillJones · February 2, 2011 6:17AM

There is really not much you can do for this piece. It's got hole, and this medal is not supposed to have one. It's got lots of corrsion, and when you remove that you will have more pits. I think there is more chance to do harm that good. If you turn this medal into a brassy bright horror it will be close to the end. The only thing after that is to give it to a coin doctor for a sulfur treatment.

I'd give this to pro to mess with it. Don't expect much, but if they can inactivate the corrosion, that would be as about good as you could hope for.

clackamas · February 2, 2011 6:37AM

<< In this specific case, it won't matter what you find is effective in removing the verdigris. The underlying surfaces have already likely been damaged, so the medal will look as bad or worse than it already does. A lengthy soak of MS-70 will remove the green and some of the red verdigris, however I'm certain that once removed it will reveal heavily etched surfaces. >>

Do not soak long in MS70, it will corrode the surfaces of the entire coin.

JRocco · February 2, 2011 8:41AM

<< FYI, the EAC guys use soft rose thorns instead of toothpicks. If you don't have any rosebushes, take your pocketknife with you next time you visit a plant store (kidding).

>>

Or buy the wife some long stemmed roses for the 14th and tell the florist to leave on the thorns.

ColonialCoinUnion · February 2, 2011 8:47AM

<< There is really not much you can do for this piece. It's got hole, and this medal is not supposed to have one. It's got lots of corrsion, and when you remove that you will have more pits. I think there is more chance to do harm that good. If you turn this medal into a brassy bright horror it will be close to the end. >>

I agree with Bill. In the process of attempting to prevent further damage" (paraphrasing the OP's words), it will cost money and might very well end up looking worse.

Baley · February 2, 2011 8:50AM

Add to the chorus of "leave it be"

I like the red and green with the brown... as has been said, it could more easily go worse from here than improve

AnkurJ · February 2, 2011 9:02AM

Hmm...I was thinking of having a special encasing made and wear it around my neck at coin shows.

LanceNewmanOCC · September 4, 2011 5:25AM

.
.
i would highly recommend staying away from MS70

that crap seems like it would kill you in under a minute if you aren't in a super-ventilated area, preferably outside, and yes it is very corrosive

.
.
lets see.

how about zylol vs verdicare vs olive oil
.
.
olive oil seems to do an ok job, never left coins in this for weeks or months, maybe it works better over a much longer period. ok results on copper coins for short term

zylol. never used. suggested to me by Rod Buress and he supplies this as well as the gentle brushes for which to apply it

verdicare - probably going to be one of the next things i try. have seen many xf/au/unc coppers that if gently massaged could turn out to be beauties and conserved for future generations
.
.

TexasNationals · September 4, 2011 6:04AM

Nitromethane and a WOOD toothpick would do the job. Ha, if you think MS_70 is noxious jack around with nitromethane, an industrial plasticizer, but it works.

johnny9434 · September 4, 2011 6:07AM

<< Dremel?

>>

dont use rotary file

BAJJERFAN · September 4, 2011 11:03AM

<< 

<< LINK >>

Is that the same as verdigone? It's listed under a different name. >>

It says that it is a replacement for Verdi-Gone.

LanceNewmanOCC · September 4, 2011 11:07AM

.
.

<< Nitromethane and a WOOD toothpick would do the job. Ha, if you think MS_70 is noxious jack around with nitromethane, an industrial plasticizer, but it works. >>

i don't know what nitromethane is other than sounding like a top fuel dragster version of N2O.

do you really use it for coins?

if it is more noxious than MS70 I will probably stay away from it unless I see some amazing results ie images.
.
.

TexasNationals · September 4, 2011 11:09AM

It is the fuel used in dragsters, but it isn't nitrous oxide, like I said it is an industrial plasticizer. It works very well but is very flamable and very noxious. Don't be afraid of something if you are safe using it.

CoinCrazyPA · September 4, 2011 2:10PM

MS 70 works great on removing haze from proof coins. This is the only thing I have ever tried using it on. Olive oil has to be changed every month or so, mineral oil doesn't. It is true removing the oils is very time consuming. I also would leave it be, there looks like there will be holes under the green. Best of luck on what ever you decide.

kaz · September 4, 2011 9:44PM

I'd use verdegone, or whatever it's called now. Soak for 12 to 24 hours, then use a thorn (I used locust tree thorns, they are bigger and easier to handle) to pick away the residue,which turns white from the verdigone. It takes multiple soaks and a lot of patience but you can get the green areas all the way down to copper.

BG · September 5, 2011 4:07AM

Acetone (will dry out the surfaces) then Blue Ribbon (to bring some life back).

windwhispersintrees · September 5, 2011 5:40AM

CLR diluted with water can remove that. However, the amount of time needed to kill the green may also brighten the undamaged surfaces.
Whatever you do, experiment on junky pocket change or other damaged metal first before experimenting on this piece.

Ervil · September 17, 2011 2:02PM

<< .
.
i would highly recommend staying away from MS70

that crap seems like it would kill you in under a minute if you aren't in a super-ventilated area, preferably outside, and yes it is very corrosive

.
.
lets see.

how about zylol vs verdicare vs olive oil
.
.
olive oil seems to do an ok job, never left coins in this for weeks or months, maybe it works better over a much longer period. ok results on copper coins for short term

zylol. never used. suggested to me by Rod Buress and he supplies this as well as the gentle brushes for which to apply it

verdicare - probably going to be one of the next things i try. have seen many xf/au/unc coppers that if gently massaged could turn out to be beauties and conserved for future generations
.
. >>

I think your getting Acetone and MS70 mixed up. MS70 does not need ventilation to be used, Acetone does if using it for prolonged periods of time. Read the caution parts of the directions?

TexasNationals · September 17, 2011 2:18PM

I like the CLR idea and bet it would work. If you used a poster tack (metal) and dug a small pocket in the middle and used a eye dropper to put a drop in and let it work for a minute, then washed with distilled water, then put more in the hole (assuming it got bigger), rinsed and repeated, you may very well clean that pocket out with no other damage. Very, very, very good idea. If you don't want to try it, I'll buy it form you and give it a shot.

LanceNewmanOCC · September 17, 2011 8:06PM

<< I think your getting Acetone and MS70 mixed up. MS70 does not need ventilation to be used, Acetone does if using it for prolonged periods of time. Read the caution parts of the directions? >>

that is a negative

i used that stuff once and in a somewhat open space.

it corroded/rusted? a cheap vf indian i practiced on.

it was kinda like a gel of sorts and knocked me on my butt when i made the mistake of standing over the metal can a foot or two away with the lid off

reminded me of the gel stuff that can be put on wood objects to remove paint. strong, messy and highly noxious.

for my part with mineral oil, olive oil, verdicare, verdigone, zylol etc i'll leave ms70 alone
.
.
anyone else try it that hasn't yet, you have your warning, VENTILATE!
.
.

Need to remove verdigris from this Libertas Medal

Comments

Leave a Comment