How do you determine if toning is synthetic or aged?
ElyJ83
Posts: 73
When I say synthetic, I mean heat toned or chemicals. I am having a difficult time trying to determine what is aged. I am trying to find a decent raw or graded Morgan with nice toning.
For example is this ebay auction of a morgan -> EBAY
Should I stay away since it is not graded? What are your thoughts on that toning? From my understanding if it has greens in it it is most likely aged toning.. I appreciate any information as I am new to toning..
Jason
For example is this ebay auction of a morgan -> EBAY
Should I stay away since it is not graded? What are your thoughts on that toning? From my understanding if it has greens in it it is most likely aged toning.. I appreciate any information as I am new to toning..
Jason
0
Comments
My only advice is NEVER buy a toned coin that looks completely unlike any other toned coin youve seen....and this one fills that bill.
AT or artifically toned
vs
NT
naturally toned
<< <i>Do a forum search on tarnish (toning for the sophisticated).... there are mostly BS threads since most contributors have no scientific knowledge of the topic - and furthermore, refuse to learn, but some truly factual threads are available (TomB did an excellent treatise on tarnish). One thing further, if done expertly, no one can tell the difference, no matter what they may claim. Cheers, RickO >>
Rick is absolutely right. A chemical reaction (tarnish / toning) is a chemical reaction whether it happened last week or last century. Anyone with a basic knowledge of metallurgy and chemistry could "doctor" a coin, but there are a few people with enough expertise to fool even the best experts.
The thing that you have to accept in this hobby is that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. If you really like how a coin is colored (whether it be AT, NT, or unknown), then that's all that really matters. The only exception would be with really high end coins that could be a potential massive loss of investment. If you are in the coin purely for investment, just steer clear of any questionable examples.
<< <i>Do a forum search on tarnish (toning for the sophisticated).... there are mostly BS threads since most contributors have no scientific knowledge of the topic - and furthermore, refuse to learn, but some truly factual threads are available (TomB did an excellent treatise on tarnish). One thing further, if done expertly, no one can tell the difference, no matter what they may claim. Cheers, RickO >>
I'll take as many of these as you can make at 2x sheet. The die clash will be a nice extra, but not necessary.
<< <i>
<< <i>Do a forum search on tarnish (toning for the sophisticated).... there are mostly BS threads since most contributors have no scientific knowledge of the topic - and furthermore, refuse to learn, but some truly factual threads are available (TomB did an excellent treatise on tarnish). One thing further, if done expertly, no one can tell the difference, no matter what they may claim. Cheers, RickO >>
I'll take as many of these as you can make at 2x sheet.
>>
I printed 100 copies of your TrueView on photo paper. You can send the money to my PayPal account. Thanks!
<< <i>That coin would not slab. >>
Just curious of why it would not slab?
Is it cause of the scratch on the on the edge of the coin (8 o clock) or the many scratches throughout the surface? What would you rate it.. VF?
<< <i> The thing that you have to accept in this hobby is that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. If you really like how a coin is colored (whether it be AT, NT, or unknown), then that's all that really matters. The only exception would be with really high end coins that could be a potential massive loss of investment. If you are in the coin purely for investment, just steer clear of any questionable examples. >>
Best advice for a new member I have seen posted in quite a while. Well done.
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<< <i>Do a forum search on tarnish (toning for the sophisticated).... there are mostly BS threads since most contributors have no scientific knowledge of the topic - and furthermore, refuse to learn, but some truly factual threads are available (TomB did an excellent treatise on tarnish). One thing further, if done expertly, no one can tell the difference, no matter what they may claim. Cheers, RickO >>
RickO, I have a sneaking suspicion that you are a closet toned coin hoarder..... that way you can get all the good bargains.
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<< <i>
<< <i> The thing that you have to accept in this hobby is that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. If you really like how a coin is colored (whether it be AT, NT, or unknown), then that's all that really matters. The only exception would be with really high end coins that could be a potential massive loss of investment. If you are in the coin purely for investment, just steer clear of any questionable examples. >>
Best advice for a new member I have seen posted in quite a while. Well done. >>
Why thank you! I learned the hard way... (buying raw and hoping they would grade) I still keep a raw album and buy raw coins I like, but NOT in the hopes that they will grade.
If I want a slabbed coin, I now buy it that way.
<< <i>When I say synthetic, I mean heat toned or chemicals. I am having a difficult time trying to determine what is aged. I am trying to find a decent raw or graded Morgan with nice toning.
For example is this ebay auction of a morgan -> EBAY
Should I stay away since it is not graded? What are your thoughts on that toning? From my understanding if it has greens in it it is most likely aged toning.. I appreciate any information as I am new to toning..
Jason >>
I wouldn't buy that coin if I wanted nice NT. It won't slab because it is AT for sure.
<< <i>When I say synthetic, I mean heat toned or chemicals. I am having a difficult time trying to determine what is aged. I am trying to find a decent raw or graded Morgan with nice toning.
For example is this ebay auction of a morgan -> EBAY
Should I stay away since it is not graded? What are your thoughts on that toning? From my understanding if it has greens in it it is most likely aged toning.. I appreciate any information as I am new to toning..
Jason >>
Welcome Jason and yes that coin is a AT coin.
You may want to try and to craft your questions more directly
so your post doesn't don't go so far off the reservation.
I had to learn the hard way and your thread gets so far off topic
that you never get your original question answered if your not carefull.
U.S. Type Set
<< <i>From my understanding if it has greens in it it is most likely aged toning.. >>
Here's a green coin:
<< <i>One other thing to note. The eBay seller has 100% positive feedback. Do not let the eBay feedback rating of the seller mislead you. >>
I agree. That is an obvious AT coin.
<< <i> tarnish (toning for the sophisticated).... >>
Patina for those who collect ancients or who are ancient themselves.
Oh yeah, thanks for my Medicare benefits, y'all.