Hand cut cards, Number graded vs. "Authentic"

gregmo32

Several years ago as part of a large submission, I sent in a few cards that were hand cut from Hostess boxes. I assume they were not cut properly, but I believe they came back "evidence of trimming" and ungraded or slabbed.
This made no sense at the time as I could not figure out how else I was supposed to make them into a card.

It seems that now PSA will slab these, and give them a label of "Authentic." Does that apply to cards that were not cut exactly properly as well? For somewhat rare cards, is the "Authentic" label the equivalent of a very low number grade? Can they be entered in the Set Registry, and do they get a PSA 1 equivalent?

Thanks for any help you can give!

thedutymon

Good Morning,
For Pre/During WWII Non Sports Cards this is the kiss of death. Sets such as 1942 MP & Co. America At War, or 1942 MP & Co. War Scenes I Always put on the Submission Form "No Authentic" on each and every line. I'd rather have a card that looks like an 8 or 9 come back as a 5 because of miscut or even an 6MC then Authentic. Authentic usually just go in the Trash. Have never sold an Authentic....Period.

Neil

firedawg45

yes, on hand cut cards, all 4 dotted or lines are to be present. the more straight and neatly cut with recieve the highest grade. its al on eye appeal. if any of the borders are cut into at all it will recieve a authentic grade which equals a psa 1 grade. 2nd the can be entered on the set registry to fill holes and will recieve a grade of psa 1. hope this helps.

5714Ks

However, cards cut outside their perforated border also are returned authentic.
I don't understand that one either. Can someone also explain that one?

swartz1

If it is a perforate - you cant cut...you can only perforate...

If it is a dotted / dashed line - you must cut

gregmo32

Thank you for the information. Does anyone know if the current policies are administered consistently or not?

5714Ks

<< <i>If it is a perforate - you cant cut...you can only perforate...

If it is a dotted / dashed line - you must cut >>




Yes; I agree, but do you know why?

Has anyone cut along the perforation and not been downgraded?
Anyone have any tips for the "perfect perforation"?

swartz1

<< <i>

<< <i>If it is a perforate - you cant cut...you can only perforate...

If it is a dotted / dashed line - you must cut >>




Yes; I agree, but do you know why?

It probably has something to do with the way they were originally distributed...

Has anyone cut along the perforation and not been downgraded?

If so, probably a grader error...

Anyone have any tips for the "perfect perforation"?

bend, bend and bend some more, until it falls off... >>

5714Ks

<< <i>

<< <i>

<< <i>If it is a perforate - you cant cut...you can only perforate...

If it is a dotted / dashed line - you must cut >>




Yes; I agree, but do you know why?

It probably has something to do with the way they were originally distributed...

Has anyone cut along the perforation and not been downgraded?

If so, probably a grader error...

Anyone have any tips for the "perfect perforation"?

bend, bend and bend some more, until it falls off... >>

>>



thanks swartz!

fkw

PSA screwed up from the beginning on this...

All handcut cards should be graded as "A" authentic, period. But the grading companies messed up from the beginning and were wishy washy about what to do and graded some with number grades and some with "A" grades. They should all be graded "A".

If your limiting yourself to only buying number graded handcut cards, your ripping yourself off by paying far more for these slabs with numbers on them, when in reality the card is often the same in either slab. .............. "Buy the card not the slab".

PSA's lack of knowledge when it comes to many cards they call "handcut" is one problem.... they need to actually hire someone who knows the cards... they (PSA) will call machine cut cards like W502, W503, W574, W575-2, etc. as "Handcut" too. And this adds to their goofyness on grading the simplest of all cards to grade, a card that was intended to be cut from a sheet, strip, candy box, etc.

its simple PSA, grade them all "A", how much easier can it be...

fkw

Or you can cut off all of the border and get a number grade too

1923 Willard Chocolates "super trimmed mini"

1923 Willard Chocolates "normal"

This is not some one time screw up, the Same Seller has/had 12 PSA graded V100's and 10 are chopped (missing their 1/2" borders) and still received number grades.

And the stupidest thing is.... they were all graded on same order, even with the 2 full sized cards to compare too!

PSA needs to drug test their graders on a daily basis IMO

PSA you're the best ever! Thanks for the laugh

hammered

<< <i>Or you can cut off all of the border and get a number grade too

1923 Willard Chocolates "super trimmed mini"

1923 Willard Chocolates "normal"

This is not some one time screw up, the Same Seller has/had 12 PSA graded V100's and 10 are chopped (missing their 1/2" borders) and still received number grades.

And the stupidest thing is.... they were all graded on same order, even with the 2 full sized cards to compare too!

PSA needs to drug test their graders on a daily basis IMO

PSA you're the best ever! Thanks for the laugh >>




So were these V100s machine cut or were they intended to be cut by hand off a chocolates box?

wrestlingcardking

I had a 1983 Hostess Greatest Olympians card of Dan Gable and it had some extra borders so I went to the local Kinko's. I used their straight edge and trimmed the card and kept an even line of the dotted borders present on the card. I subbed the card to PSA and it came back a PSA 9. I had some strip cards of wrestlers from the 1920s. I had grades all over the map with them. I have now considered that I should trim them up and sub again with a better trim job. Doesn't seem like it could hurt.

gregmo32

Wrestlingcardking,

I just saw the Gable you mentioned in your set registry - fantastic looking card! What made you decide to cut the card just outside the dotted line? I think that is the most logical way to do it, but am afraid I will get the non-number grade by cutting it poorly.

hammered

Greg
You can do what I did when I had some Bazooka cards to cut
I took them to a local lithographing company, they had a machine that cut real straight. I gave them a few damaged ones to practice on.
They all turned out real nice, and they only charged me $25 for about 20 of them

gregmo32

Hammered,

I just know my luck, or lack thereof.

I would get the dreaded qualifier (DO NOT GRADE - EVIDENCE OF CHOPPED IN HALF).

wrestlingcardking

I would practice a bit on a few others before trying the ones that you really want. The straight edge at Kinko's cuts real straight. I feel pretty confident in doing it again if need be.

I wanted to keep the line present because I heard too many stories about how you will not get a number grade if you do not have them. I just kept a small white border around the card that seemed consistent to each side. I was really pumped to get a PSA 9 on a hand cut job that I did myself. For once I did something right!