General Advice about Washington Quarters

I decided to begin a 1932-64 Set, as listed in this 1932-1964 Classic Set (With 1934 Light and Heavy Motto). Any general advice for collecting this series?
My Registry Link:
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My Registry Link:
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In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
<< <i>It really depends on your goals. Do you want a full MS set? Are you collecting just white coins, toned, or both? >>
All MS (mostly ms66) except the keys. Bright White, not toned.
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#1 1951 Bowman Los Angeles Rams Team Set
#2 1980 Topps Los Angeles Rams Team Set
#8 (and climbing) 1972 Topps Los Angeles Rams Team Set
<< <i>I was collecting high end silver WQs well before the registry concept was in place and I can tell you that there are no rare issues in this series. Even the "key date" 1932-D and 1932-S are always available. However, there are plenty of coins that are mighty expensive based upon the highest obtainable grade, which is similar to most any other series. For many years PCGS was quite reluctant to issue the MS67 grade to WQs, but there appeared to be a shift in about 2000 where MS67 was now a much more common grade while the new frontier was MS68. If you are building a set to seriously compete for the top spot then you had better have very large funds. If, however, you are building the set because you enjoy it then you can buy some seriously nice coins in MS66 for most issues at a rather modest sum. >>
I'm using the Registry simply to organize the collection. Being higher up on the list would be nice, but MS66's and an occasional 67 would be my focus.
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<< <i>It really depends on your goals. Do you want a full MS set? Are you collecting just white coins, toned, or both? >>
All MS (mostly ms66) except the keys. Bright White, not toned. >>
I would say then its all about the strike and the luster imo. Also buying examples where the marks are well hidden. Last but not certainly not least, only buy a coin that gives you that feeling. The one that feels wow i gotta have that coin!
<< <i>amazing that it only has 49 competing sets. I thought Washies would have a lot of collectors in the registry. >>
Yeah, the classic set is one of the less popular Washington Sets. The complete variety sets are a little more popular.
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<< <i>It really depends on your goals. Do you want a full MS set? Are you collecting just white coins, toned, or both? >>
All MS (mostly ms66) except the keys. Bright White, not toned. >>
I would say then its all about the strike and the luster imo. Also buying examples where the marks are well hidden. Last but not certainly not least, only buy a coin that gives you that feeling. The one that feels wow i gotta have that coin! >>
Thanks for the advice. What do you think about what I have already?
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
Positive BST Transactions (buyers and sellers): wondercoin, blu62vette, BAJJERFAN, privatecoin, blu62vette, AlanLastufka, privatecoin
#1 1951 Bowman Los Angeles Rams Team Set
#2 1980 Topps Los Angeles Rams Team Set
#8 (and climbing) 1972 Topps Los Angeles Rams Team Set
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<< <i>It really depends on your goals. Do you want a full MS set? Are you collecting just white coins, toned, or both? >>
All MS (mostly ms66) except the keys. Bright White, not toned. >>
I would say then its all about the strike and the luster imo. Also buying examples where the marks are well hidden. Last but not certainly not least, only buy a coin that gives you that feeling. The one that feels wow i gotta have that coin! >>
Thanks for the advice. What do you think about what I have already? >>
Your 36 imo is a perfect example of what a nice MS66 coin that is blast white is all about.
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<< <i>I decided to begin a 1932-64 Set, as listed in this 1932-1964 Classic Set (With 1934 Light and Heavy Motto). Any general advice for collecting this ser
My Registry Link:
Link >>
Take your time, there is a big difference in quality b/w a high end 66 and a low end 66. I like the 36-p in your set. >>
thanks for the advice.
<< <i>I have been putting together a set of Washingtons. Every coin on my set has been purchased cheep, it's a very fun set to put together. I don't see the appeal of buying the highest grades around when you can buy the grade just lower (and they look nicer in many cases) for much less. I can't get on board with paying obscene money for ultra high grade coins, when the date is very common otherwise. JMHO. >>
I totally agree. I notice on the price guides that some dates in MS66 are like $50-$60 and an MS67 costs like $3000. I don't know about the rest of you, but I'd be satisfied with a 66 for $2950 less than a 67. Registry collectors go overboard sometimes
<< <i>I've never been a huge fan of Washingtons, but I've never really owned a high graded example until this one. They sure are flashy at this level. The luster on this coin is top notch. I think I paid about $100 on ebay last year for it. When I recieved it, I thought, this coin has got to better than 65, and sent it in about 2 months ago. Needless to say I was quite happy with the grade.
Wow
I'm surprised it got a 65 in the first place. It is definently worthy of the 67. Nice!!
Since the State Quarter series has ended I think that the Washington quarter bloom is off the rose. You should be able to buy the coins for a lot less now that you could have ten years ago. Stay away from Mint State coins with marks or other problems. They are out there and should avoided.
And yes, I still think that the 1932 to 1964 is boring ...
<< <i>Stay away from Mint State coins with marks or other problems.
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I chose this series because the design protects the fields very well. There are usually never any marks on the reverse because it is so protected and Washington is in such high relief that the field usually remains clear also.
A lot of coins were plucked from circulation in the early '40's and they can
have some wear. There's also some friction from improper storage as in
folders or loose rolls.
<< <i>Take your time, there is a big difference in quality b/w a high end 66 and a low end 66. I like the 36-p in your set. >>
I did too.
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<< <i>Stay away from Mint State coins with marks or other problems.
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I chose this series because the design protects the fields very well. There are usually never any marks on the reverse because it is so protected and Washington is in such high relief that the field usually remains clear also. >>
In my early years as a dealer I remember passing on an MS-64 graded 1932-D quarter that had a noticeable scratch. The dealer was asking way over Gray Sheet "ask" for the coin despite the fact that the coin was over graded because of the scratch. This was in the early years of the State Quarter program when the series was hot. Given the problem, the coin must still be in a holder unless a less than savvy owner bought it and thought it would upgrade.
These coins don't have a lot of detail, and they don't have a word like "liberty" in a vulnerable spot that can be used as a grading point. For that reason, do as Cladking says and watch out for a rub that makes the coin less than Mint State. Washington’s cheek is a good place to start.
My advice is to purchase the certain coins with great eye appeal and luster.
Now there you go!Go for it!!!That is how to collect coins!