1921 Peace Dollars - Strike Details

Common points of weakness on 1921 Peace dollars. (Additional comparative photos of the central obverse will be found in A Guide book of Peace Dollars from Whitman Publishing LLC.)
I’m posting the following images to help collectors identify nicely struck 1921 Peace dollars. The grading companies do little to differentiate good strikes from poor strikes, and auction prices tend to be grading-number driven, rather than indicative of over all quality. This information might help collectors in selecting coins for their collections. (The coin pictured below belongs to me and the images are copyright. No, the coin is not for sale - I’ve turned down several very generous offers.)
General – Look for lettering and rays with rounded surface on top – no flat spots, especially toward rim. Text stops (“periods”) should be sharp and triangular.
Obverse. Primary places to look for weakness include:
1. Central hair – no flat areas at ear and curls near upper jaw line.
2. BE in Liberty and adjacent rays should be rounded on upper surfaces
3. No flat area on truncation of bust (above AF monogram).
4. IN and VST in motto letters rounded on upper surfaces
5. Portion of 21 approaching rim, rounded
6. Field to rim transition smooth and even all around

Reverse. Primary places to look for weakness include:
A. Eagle feathers just above top of right leg should show detail
B. Right talon to foot separation and texture of talon should be clear
C. Lower set of tail feathers distinct
D. Upper left of PEACE well defined.
E. No flatness of inscription near rim (M in America should be rounded on upper surface just as on M in Unum).
F. O of One clearly separated from rim.
Lower reverse will show many engraving lines on the mountain peak and elsewhere. On a well struck coin you should be able to count 9 rays below the eagle’s tail. Two of these are commonly ignored simply because they are nearly invisible on most coins (including proofs).

I hope members find this interesting.
I’m posting the following images to help collectors identify nicely struck 1921 Peace dollars. The grading companies do little to differentiate good strikes from poor strikes, and auction prices tend to be grading-number driven, rather than indicative of over all quality. This information might help collectors in selecting coins for their collections. (The coin pictured below belongs to me and the images are copyright. No, the coin is not for sale - I’ve turned down several very generous offers.)
General – Look for lettering and rays with rounded surface on top – no flat spots, especially toward rim. Text stops (“periods”) should be sharp and triangular.
Obverse. Primary places to look for weakness include:
1. Central hair – no flat areas at ear and curls near upper jaw line.
2. BE in Liberty and adjacent rays should be rounded on upper surfaces
3. No flat area on truncation of bust (above AF monogram).
4. IN and VST in motto letters rounded on upper surfaces
5. Portion of 21 approaching rim, rounded
6. Field to rim transition smooth and even all around

Reverse. Primary places to look for weakness include:
A. Eagle feathers just above top of right leg should show detail
B. Right talon to foot separation and texture of talon should be clear
C. Lower set of tail feathers distinct
D. Upper left of PEACE well defined.
E. No flatness of inscription near rim (M in America should be rounded on upper surface just as on M in Unum).
F. O of One clearly separated from rim.
Lower reverse will show many engraving lines on the mountain peak and elsewhere. On a well struck coin you should be able to count 9 rays below the eagle’s tail. Two of these are commonly ignored simply because they are nearly invisible on most coins (including proofs).

I hope members find this interesting.
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Comments
<< <i>I hope members find this interesting. >>
Fellas, leave the tight pants to the ladies. If I can count the coins in your pockets you better use them to call a tailor. Stay thirsty my friends......
``https://ebay.us/m/KxolR5
What's the story on that coin?!
--Severian the Lame
<< <i>Is this a copy/paste from the book or is this your own expertise for this year. >>
I believe RWB is the author of the book in question.
RWB- Great post, i will be buying the book. I have just recently started really getting into the Peace dollars and have a lot to learn.
Seriously, is it possible to put together a complete set of fully struck Peace Dollars? I have my doubts, from what I've seen over the years. Close, maybe.
my early American coins & currency: -- http://yankeedoodlecoins.com/
<< <i>This what you call a damn good post. >>
More of this quality, less ebay.
Wonderful post, incredible pictures, gorgeous coin. This is one page to bookmark.
Thanks, RWB!
Lance.
As usual from RWB
Thank you for an interesting presentation.Learned alot from your post.
We'll use our hands and hearts and if we must we'll use our heads.
The coin appears in the Peace dollar book, but the annotations are not included in the book. The annotations were developed after several board members requested information on what to look for in addition to the central hair.
At present, it is impossible to tell how much of the original bronze cast's detail was transferred to the working dies. All of the 1921 proofs are inconsistent, and thus far well struck circulation strikes have been so elusive that no meaningful conclusions can be reached.
Screw the lecture! What's the story on that coin?!
The coin is in a plastic holder for protection. It has not been graded by PCGS or NGC. You might have fun trying to figure out the “grade.” The coin has mostly satin-like surfaces and almost no cartwheel luster.
Using this coin as a comparison, NO ONE has a well struck 1921 Peace Dollar.
I realize this coin is unusual. My reason for using it in the post was so collectors could better see what a well-struck 1921 looks like. If collectors treat this as a goal, while examining coins at auction or in dealer’s stock, they have a better chance of locating a superior coin at the same cost as a flatly struck example.
Very generous of you to take the time with such detailed and quality information.
I'll be looking over mine more closely.
"If I say something in the woods and my wife isn't there to hear it.....am I still wrong?"
My Washington Quarter Registry set...in progress
It reminds me that part of the enjoyment of collecting is the pursuit.
I thought that once I found a decently struck 1921 peace dollar I was done. Now, I see one can always strive to find better.
The coin looks like it might be a lightly cleaned Satin Proof - I realize you stated that it is not certified, but have you gotten any hands-on opinions to that effect?
Lance.
Stuart
Collect 18th & 19th Century US Type Coins, Silver Dollars, $20 Gold Double Eagles and World Crowns & Talers with High Eye Appeal
"Luck is what happens when Preparation meets Opportunity"
and...
<< <i>While it is a GREAT post, and I appreciate your expertise and time, there is a problem with your choice of coin for illustration in this post. Using this coin as a comparison, NO ONE has a well struck 1921 Peace Dollar.
While the info by the OP has been most interesting and perhaps, beneficial to someone, should such coins (the ultimate coins) be kept in the closet, so to speak. Reason being. most collectors will never see or personally own such a coin in their lifetime. But I did see 2-3 nicely struck examples while perusing the Teletrade archives and I only looked through 5 of the nine pages. And of course, those 2-3 coins would need a closer look once in hand.
Years ago, late 1990's when a fellow Jefferson nickel collector moved into my area. (I was actually informed of the move before our paths crossed.) But my point is, after seeing his collection, my initial response was; you can't let anyone see your collection, it will only discourage others from ever trying to collect the series. Because once they learn how unattainable these Jefferson nickels are in high quality condition, they will easily give up and move on to another series. Why did I feel that way? Did I get discouraged at that time? I certainly did. But I guess some will disagree with me or question why I'm so adamant with the discussion of and the showing of high quality nickels. Has the thought crossed my mind that I may be discouraging others from collecting this series? Many times but I also have other reasons now why it's important to educate rather than watch others waste their time and money. Does the time for learning verses the squandering of one's funds correlate with the rise and fall of the market? On the other hand, seeing such great coins may influence others to collect the series but for how long? So again, I'm questioning whether it's good or bad for the hobby to display coins that are unattainable to most collectors?
Leo
The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!
My Jefferson Nickel Collection
Many members on this forum that now it cannot fit in my signature. Please ask for entire list.
<< <i>nice post, what grade is the one you showed? >>
The coin is in a plastic holder for protection. It has not been graded by PCGS or NGC. You might have fun trying to figure out the “grade.” The coin has mostly satin-like surfaces and almost no cartwheel luster.
Valid questions and comments.
The reason for posting this coin was to let collectors see what the struck design was, more or less, supposed to look like. Collectors can then compare the highlighted features (and other areas) with coins they have, or are examining. I believe this will help them decide if the piece they are examining meets overall criteria for their collection.
Had I posted a typical 1921 Peace dollar, most of the arrows would have pointed to flat “nothingness” and collectors would not know what differences to look for.
As noted in the original post, the book A Guide Book of Peace Dollars has illustrations of additional 1921 dollars showing poor, typical, and above average strikes, as well as a photo of the original obverse cast.
<< <i>Roger, thank you for another excellent, educational post.
The coin looks like it might be a lightly cleaned Satin Proof - I realize you stated that it is not certified, but have you gotten any hands-on opinions to that effect? >>
Roger,
You didn't answer Mark's question. I am curious too. It is a wonderful coin, but give us your opinion on biz or proof, strike, grade, and cleaning. Also, have you considered PCGS grading?
The coin is stunning by any measure, of course.
Lance.
As to proof vs circulation strike, and “grade.” Multiple opinions have been mentioned with most feeling the coin is a satin proof (medal press strike). Others feel it is an exceptional circulation strike made very early in the first morning's press run on Dec 28, 1921. My overall opinion is simply to enjoy the coin for itself.
<< <i> My overall opinion is simply to enjoy the coin for itself. >>
I like this point Roger. I enjoy learning everything I can about a coin, the history, and everything else, but it is also good to put all that aside sometimes and just appreciate the beauty of the coin itself.