Tough introduction to PSA grading

Hatter

It might be interesting to hear from some people who have had interesting intial PSA experiences. I just got the grades back from 15 cards that I submitted as part of my platinum membership. I have a lot of cards and thought that the cards I submitted were in pretty good shape. The oldests cards were 51 parkhursts and the newest were from 1980. I was shocked to find out that a 1962 Billy Harris card (#1 Parkhurst) only received a grade of 4. When I submitted this card I thought it was the best (I gave them a pretty good look under a magnifying glass). I am scratching my head at this grade an have no idea why it received this grade. Can anyone provide some advice when examining cards to submit to PSA.

Thanks.

Mark

storm888

Read and understand the PSA Grading Standards.

.........


Bright daylight is good, for me.

A big magnifying glass is good, for me.

A 10X and a 16X loupe is good, for me.

................

Look for micro-wrinkles and micro-creases; front and back.

Look for TINY indents; like the edge of a fingernail, front and back.


Hope for the best.

bigreddog

Mark

Its called the PSA re-sub program. You didn't think you were only going to have to pay once to get the right grades did you?

qualitycards

Mark, when the cards arrive show us the Harris PSA-4 and we can give you our take if it was undergraded or accurate

mtcards

I agree with the surface wrinkle assertion. I have two of the nicest looking 89 UD Griffey PSA 5 cards you will ever see.

Hatter

Thanks for the help.

I was shocked that the Harris card got that grade. I submitted it because I know that it is a condition sensitive card. I'll take this first attempt at submitting cards as a learing experience. That being said I did have several 7's and 7.5's returned for the 51 Parkies.

Cheers.

Mark

Hatter

Another question...do you use something other that a magnifying glass to examine cards?

yankeeno7

Electron Microscope

Hatter

Wow...the hobby has changed....

jswieton

Did you check the back? My guess is there is a very small crease on the card for it to get a 4 when you thought it should grade high.

dizzle

hatter huh? lol...

DrJ

<< <i>Wow...the hobby has changed.... >>



The Hobby has not changed from the standpoint that you are forced to have your cards graded. It has changed in that if you want the maximum price for your cards, grading is a must these days.

15-20 years ago people would pay High book for EX-MT/NM cards. Now those cards have lost much of their value once slabbed. My recommendation is that if you have no desire to sell the cards or start a registry set, dont even worry about grading and just enjoy your collection.

Downtown1974

<< <i>hatter huh? lol... >>




yeah...that name made me laugh too.
all we need now is "carp collector" to join the boards.

billwaltonsbeard

...and a collection manager

stevek

corners, corners, corners, corners...and more...but first you need to understand wear on the corners to understand grading.

daddymc

One lesson most inexperienced submitters need to learn is that it's not all about the front. In some cases the back of the card is just as important. I would also recommend self grading more than once. Unless it is a card for my personal collection that I simply want slabbed, I will review cards for submission on at least one additional occassion if not two. You will surprised at what you miss the first time. You should also review with the intent to find flaws, not to find support for the grade you want.

Hatter

Boys:

Thanks for making fun of my knickname...I now feel part of Collector's Universe!

Just to se the record straight I have a lot of old hockey cards (I have 185 cards from the 51 Parkhurst set alone). However, I am new to the grading component of cards and I am trying to "soak"up as much advice as I can from people here so I can be much more educated when I contemplate submitting much more valuable cards.

Thanks again for the help.

Mark

WinPitcher

The more valuable cards are the ones you should have sent in for the freebies.


Good luck the rest of the way.


Steve

Hatter

Steve:

I appreciate the comme.nt. However, the criteria was that the cards had to have a value of less than $100. I was not sure if they would accept my Howe rookie cards, the 3 Richards rookies that I have, the 2 Sawchuk rookies, etc...

That being said, can you submit cards and put a much lower value on them when submitting?

Thanks again.

Mark

daddymc

<< <i>Steve:

I appreciate the comme.nt. However, the criteria was that the cards had to have a value of less than $100. I was not sure if they would accept my Howe rookie cards, the 3 Richards rookies that I have, the 2 Sawchuk rookies, etc...

That being said, can you submit cards and put a much lower value on them when submitting?

Thanks again.

Mark >>



Actually, the maximum value per card on the membership vouchers is $499 per card. Also, the value is for insurance purposes, so you could put a lower value on the card(s), assuming you are comfortable with assuming that risk of loss.

swartz1

post scans - when you get them back...

Hatter

I will definitely post the cards when they come back. I am assuming they will be back later this week.

I am trying to build other sets with extra cards that I have. I assume that most people on this thread try to do the same thing (ie sell/trade to get the cards you want).

WinPitcher

Hatter

Whenever I have sent me my 12 card renewal order it was 500.00 or less value.

Maybe they have changed? I've sent in 52 Bowman Mantle and Mays Jackie Robinson rookie etc.


Steve


edited to add: looking at my most recent voucher (for 12 cards) it says nothing of value restrictions.

I've always sent in my more valuable cards the 3 times I have had these vouchers, this is my 4th time.

WinPitcher

FRom the PSA site:

A voucher for 15 Submissions - 7 Business Day Turnaround (All 15 cards must be submitted at the same time. Maximum value per card allowed is $499 each.)


When I re upped it was 12 cards if you bought the 2 yr plan, now it is 15 cards and you get 1 year.

Mark what made you think it was 100.00 or less? And as far as claiming lower value I don't suggest you do that.

You can fudge a little but they frown on people claiming a 1000.00 card is values at 100.00 plus you need some protection

insurance wise.

Steve

PowderedH2O

Welcome to the boards Hatter. I had the same experience. I sent in six vintage cards I thought were 8-10's and came back with a 4, a 5, a 6, a 6.5, a 7, and a 7.5. I read a lot on these boards and I looked at a LOT of PSA graded cards. Hundreds of them. On my second submission I got 15 out of 16 cards right on the nose (within one grade or right on) including five 10's. I've collected since 1972, but I just started the grading about a year ago. These posters that have been here for years generally know what they are talking about when it comes to grades. Just look and learn.

Hatter

Thanks for the message. I am guessing the your learning curve and mine will be just about the same. I think we might have even started collecting at the same time. I have just gotten back into after taking about 20 years off. When I get my cards back I'm going to take a long hard look at them to better educate myself on what different grades look like. Although I am really interested in seeing how that Billy Harris card was a 4.

Cheers.

Mark

1989FleerBillRipkencollector

<< <i>Electron Microscope >>






Umm yeah...we counted 113 dirty molecules. That's why you rec'd a 4.

Hatter- Welcome to the boards !

In your profile, you'll see you have your PM (Private Messages) turned off.

Hatter

PM messages? I didn't know they existed. It shows how new to this site I really am.

I'll try and enable this.

Thanks.

Mark

Hatter

Another question for the thread. I have 5 autographed pictures of Doug Harvey. He was a family friend and signed a lot of stuff for my dad and I. If I wanted to sell a few of these is it better to have them authenticated or can I still get a good price for them if they are not authenticated. They are legit as I watch him signed the pictures.

Mark