Opinions on this Trade Dollar

moosesr

I am just starting my type coin collection and would like opinions on this Trade Dollar I am thinking about buying.
Thanks!

COALPORTER

I see some pits in the obverse feilds that could be from air bubbles, and the lack of denticals for half of the obverse and the build up of metal on the rim near star 5 concern me. Id be cautious.

Walkerguy21D

Apart from a couple of small rim bumps and small scratch, I like the mostly original look, and I'm guessing the price is around the $120 or so range. If it fits what you plan to do, build a moderate cost set in the CH VF - XF range, this is not a bad addition, IMO.

fc

pass. it really does not do much for me at all.

UtahCoin

Although I can't say why, something about this coin scares me as far as authenticity...

MillerJW

ehhh ok not great but could be worse

moosesr

I know it won't be possible for the earlier dates, but my goal is to get most of my type coins in PCGS holders and for less than $150 each. I am having trouble telling which coins look natural and I thought this coin looked like it was possibly cleaned, but it is in a PCGS holder.

julie43

<< <i>Although I can't say why, something about this coin scares me as far as authenticity... >>

I couldn't agree more.

Elcontador

There are so many well-made fakes out there, don't waste your time with a circulated raw coin of this series.

moosesr

Coin is in a PCGS holder.

BBQnBLUES

<< <i>Coin is in a PCGS holder. >>


You might want to verify the serial # on that holder B4 buying.. My concern is how even the toning is on Both sides...

DDR

For $150 you can probably do better. Keep looking until you find one you are really happy with.

moosesr

Does this one look more natural, it is also a PCGS VF?

crypto79

<< <i>There are so many well-made fakes out there, don't waste your time with a circulated raw coin of this series. >>



well that's not the whole story.
While if you're unfamiliar with trade dollars please stay away from raw. 99.9 of fakes tend to look washed out/ weird luster high detail AU. ( although there are some 76 CC DDR fakes out there in the EF 40 range). Your trade dollar is fine for the price and a not so common micro s too boot. The rev does look to have hairlines and if you can find one try to find any one other than 75-78 s. they are by far the most common where with trade dollars you can get a semi key P mint or rare die pair (76s type 2/2 or cherry a 78s DDR) for type money and it might take off one day(might not too) where the 77s,78s will always sell for type money.

MFH

<< <i>

<< <i>Coin is in a PCGS holder. >>


You might want to verify the serial # on that holder B4 buying.. My concern is how even the toning is on Both sides... >>



All I can say is "Thank God, PCGS allows us to verify serial numbers".

Coin looks okay to me - but I'm still a neophite on Trade Dollars - and
I only have PCGS Trade Dollars - small set so far - but a beautiful coin collection, IMHO.

crypto79

<< <i>

<< <i>

<< <i>Coin is in a PCGS holder. >>


You might want to verify the serial # on that holder B4 buying.. My concern is how even the toning is on Both sides... >>



All I can say is "Thank God, PCGS allows us to verify serial numbers".

Coin looks okay to me - but I'm still a neophite on Trade Dollars - and
I only have PCGS Trade Dollars - small set so far - but a beautiful coin collection, IMHO. >>



Stop spooking the guy. It's 100% real Low VF trade dollar

keoj

Pretty good coin. It is authentic and is a variety....a 77-s small s variety (scarce but not rare). The toning is tough but I don't find it disagreeable.

Joe

TomB

Looks like an image from TNFC on ebay. The piece looks fine for what it is, but what kind of set are you trying to build? In other words, will this coin match the look out of place when you have a larger body of work completed?

zeebob

Edited - if it's in PCGS plastic and you like it - go for it.

coinkat

The s looks small... is there a small s or micro s associated with the 1877Trade Dollar?

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Halfhunter06

i agree, my first reaction was suspicion, the S mint mark is too small

moosesr

<< <i>Looks like an image from TNFC on ebay. The piece looks fine for what it is, but what kind of set are you trying to build? In other words, will this coin match the look out of place when you have a larger body of work completed? >>



Yes the first image is an image from TNFC on ebay.

I am just getting ready to start my Type set, so getting the coins to match is one of the things I am trying to figure out. I would like to buy nice AU coins, but I don't have a large budget for buying the early coins in AU.

So, right now I don't know exactly what kind of set I will be trying to build and am just trying to get some ideas. Maybe I should find a 20 cent piece in AU which probably would be around $350-500, but I don't know how well it would match what I can afford in the early half cents, dollar and quarters etc.. I have also been reading the David Bowers books on collecting/investing to try and get some ideas and set goals.

Right now I am pretty much confused on how to get started

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mirabela

I like the 20c piece; it looks like a very pleasing coin. This Trade dollar, though, looks like it was probably cleaned some time ago, and whether it was or not those rim bumps are enough to disqualify it IMO.

Keep looking. That's one of the harder coins in the 7070 to find just the way you want it (though not hard to find, in the absolute sense -- if you are willing to settle, which you shouldn't) but it'll be worth it when you buy the one that meets your strictest criteria.

Bochiman

Nah....I would keep looking

Walkerguy21D

<< <i>I am just getting ready to start my Type set, so getting the coins to match is one of the things I am trying to figure out. I would like to buy nice AU coins, but I don't have a large budget for buying the early coins in AU. >>


Rather than striving to get all the coins to match, grade-wise, maybe you could get them to match by era. Certainly the modern, 20th century issues can be done in Unc w/o difficulty. (I wouldn't want to see Ike's, Suzi B's or Kennedy halves in XF anyway, even if the rest of set is XF). Maybe the mid to latter 19th century issues can be done in XF-AU, and the early issues in VF. Try to choose original problem free coins of course, regardless of grade, but remember it is your set, and your budget.

TomB

If you are just starting, here is a link to a thread that I wrote on the NGC boards that discusses building an album-based US type set. It is likely that this thread might help you in your thoughts.