Two nice Buffalo nickels
Grade them if you please. Both are raw pieces.
The 1925-P has that peculiar finish that is unique to the issue. I see it as MS63. The small hit just above the hair knot does it no good.
The 1927-D displays the mushiness so common among the D-mint coins from 1915 to 1934. I see it as MS63 and possibly a low-end MS64, as no MS63 I saw in the Heritage archives has any definition whatsoever in the hair knot--this coin has a bit.




The 1925-P has that peculiar finish that is unique to the issue. I see it as MS63. The small hit just above the hair knot does it no good.
The 1927-D displays the mushiness so common among the D-mint coins from 1915 to 1934. I see it as MS63 and possibly a low-end MS64, as no MS63 I saw in the Heritage archives has any definition whatsoever in the hair knot--this coin has a bit.





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<< <i>Man you take great pictures. What do you use for a light source? There's no wicked glare and it's very all around even. >>
Casio Exilim EX Z4U, 4 megapixels. Plain old point and shoot and an older model to boot. I've gone through three of them; when one wears out, I find another on eBay, as I haven't found another camera quite like it. It stinks for virtually all other purposes except shooting coins.
Black background...one 75 watt Reveal light bulb, with no other light in the room...no stand, just hold the coin with one hand and shoot with the other. I shoot a bunch of images, and usually catch a couple of images between flinches.
<< <i>Here's my 1927-D in a PCGS MS64 holder. Purchased a couple of years ago from a very astute member here. This one is very much high-end for the grade. I photographed this coin a long time ago, and it has since continued to acquire spectacular coloring, so much so that I wouldn't dream of cracking it out and resubmitting, for fear of it getting bagged. In fact, I KNOW it would be bagged.
Hmmm... That coin looks even better than I remember it. What on earth makes you think it would get bagged?
<< <i>Grade them if you please. Both are raw pieces. >>
The 25-P looks 63/64 although I've recently seen a 66 with a worse hit than that. The 27-D looks solid 64 despite the soft strike.
<< <i>Hmmm... That coin looks even better than I remember it. What on earth makes you think it would get bagged? >>
The color, Chris. The obverse has exploded with Munchkin Land-like colors similar to what you see, but even more vivid. The gun blue/magenta on the reverse has intensified. I don't think PCGS graders would look at it twice in raw condition; they would DQ it immediately. I think the grading bias/paranoia about toning--which no one understands completely--is so pronounced, the PCGS graders would just throw their hands in the air, and the coin in a body bag.
Dang, you sure must have steady hands!
Regards, John
1947-P & D; 1948-D; 1949-P & S; 1950-D & S; and 1952-S.
Any help locating any of these OBW rolls would be gratefully appreciated!
Nice pics, too. I agree with your comments about grades. Often, we Buffalo collectors are the most harsh on our own series.
Garrow
<< <i>I LIKE THE 25P BUT NOT THE 27D . The 25p could go 65 and the 27d could go 64 as it is a little to grainey looking for me. MY question to you guy is have you been dipping these nice buffs with a quick EZ ZEST? If you have I would't as it kills the nickel and creates a grainey looking surface! JUST TRYING TO HELP! I do like the Shamika 27d as this coin is very high end for the grade and would receive the CAPE APPROVED STICKER! >>
Again, no dip on these coins. As a rule I am not averse to dipping when a coin is mucky, but I saw no reason to do that here. The 1925 clearly has not been dipped--recently, anyway. The buildup within the bison's mane is proof of that. These two coins (and the 1919 in the other thread) came out of gold-label PCI holders. This is always a gamble, as you know, but if any one of these coins goes MS64 then the price was terrific.
From my experience, a very quick dip does not cause the grainy, slightly pitted appearance--the metal on buff nicks is too hard, and you have to dip a coin more harshly (or else repeatedly) for it to permeate the metal and erode the surfaces it like that. More common is a stripping away of all toning, some luster, and leaving the coin with a dullish countenance. It also can expose marks that had been filled in with oxidization. As I go along, I become increasingly chary as to which coins can benefit from being treated.
Send me that sticker for the great 27-D, would you?
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Your grades sounds so reasonable I will not even try.