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Nic-a-date help

Anyone know what substances in Nic-a-date cause the date to appear? Thanks.

Comments

  • kevinstangkevinstang Posts: 1,520 ✭✭✭
    Probably the Ferric chloride thats listed on the label.
  • rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭
    It is an etching process... so Kevin is likely correct. Cheers, RickO
  • direwolf1972direwolf1972 Posts: 2,076 ✭✭✭
    I talked to a dealer a while back who is going to have some culls for me next weekend to play with. I've never used Nic-a-date before but thats what I told him I wanted the cull roll for. Is it like dipping and there is a suggested time to leave the solution on the coin? I'm assuming its also like dipping in the fact that it will need to be neutralized after treatment since the chemicals wouldnt be a good thing to leave on the coin for long term.

    All I know so far about Nic-a-date is that best used with an eyedropper and should only be put on the area containing the date. So any suggestions from those that use it frequently would be appreciated.
    I'll see your bunny with a pancake on his head and raise you a Siamese cat with a miniature pumpkin on his head.

    You wouldn't believe how long it took to get him to sit still for this.


  • slothman2000slothman2000 Posts: 952 ✭✭✭
    Here is the link for the active ingredient Ferric Acid.....as you can see it is some nasty stuff......chance be it may, unless you find something extremely rare, you will get nothing from the coin that you treat. Also, the product leaves stains on the coin that are virtually impossible to get off....
    Teterafluoroboric Acid

    Here is the msds for Ferric-Chloride....again some nasty stuff

    Ferric-Chloride
  • Police dept. uses ferric acid to bring out numbers on guns and motorcycle cases.

    Steve
    Collecting XF+ toned Barber dimes
  • Not a regular user of Nic-A-Date. When I did use it, this was the process. Put a drop on the date area and wait till you can actually see the date then quickly rinse with water and dry off. I have seen others dip the whole nickel in a solution , which gives it a granular look , but will bring the horn and other areas out. However, After the coin has been treated it truly lacks any eye appeal. I guess if the coin was a cull it did'nt have eye appeal anyway though. I did try to complete an acid dated set , but soon lost interest thereafter. The 1916 DDO can be found without using date restorer and some 1918/7 -D can be too.
  • COALPORTERCOALPORTER Posts: 2,900 ✭✭


    << <i>I talked to a dealer a while back who is going to have some culls for me next weekend to play with. I've never used Nic-a-date before but thats what I told him I wanted the cull roll for. Is it like dipping and there is a suggested time to leave the solution on the coin? I'm assuming its also like dipping in the fact that it will need to be neutralized after treatment since the chemicals wouldnt be a good thing to leave on the coin for long term.

    All I know so far about Nic-a-date is that best used with an eyedropper and should only be put on the area containing the date. So any suggestions from those that use it frequently would be appreciated. >>



    How did your experiment work ? image
  • FrankcoinsFrankcoins Posts: 4,569 ✭✭✭
    I bought an acid date overdate nickel for $50, dipped the whole thing in nic-a-date to make it look uniform.
    Got it in an ANACS "altered surfaces" net AG3 slab and sold it for $150. ( I told the buyer what I had done, he was glad to
    get a genuine, certified example with a readable date for that price)
    Frank Provasek - PCGS Authorized Dealer, Life Member ANA, Member TNA. www.frankcoins.com

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