Some words of caution to help avoid possible spotting on your ASE's

I sent in 5 2006 W MS ASE's 20th Anniversary 69's for regrade for 70s. They were spot free. One came back with the dreaded milk spots all over them. You may want to rethink sending your ASE's for regrades. I believe that these being exposed to the air while being graded caused the spotting. Whether the spotting would have shown up later on-who knows. Just think long and hard whether you want to take the risk of exposing these to air again.

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I love 'em too!
Fighting the Fight for 11 Years with the big "C" - Never Ever Give Up!
Member PCGS Open Forum board 2002 - 2006 (closed end of 2006) Current board since 2006 Successful trades with many members, over the past two decades, never a bad deal.
Is there any secondary market for milk spotted ASEs?
I would think the scarcer ones would still retain some value above their bullion content.
My Adolph A. Weinman signature

Coins in plastic holders are always exposed to air. No TPG has an air tite holder.
My recent eagles were first bathed in Acetone, then rinsed with distilled water, then sent in to be graded.
I have several 96's that were stored in Intercept Shield holders, in a IS box, and still milked.
I purchased these all ready encapsulated, over the years.
Funny thing is, only the NGC slabs fell victim to the milk phenomina. The PCGS slabs are fine.
I contacted NGC, and they want to work with me. It sucks, it's painful.
My 06, 07, and 20th Anniv. set ASE's are all in Food Saver plastic, so far so good.
This fall I'm getting rid of all my ASE's I can't take another ass beating with milked coinage.
<< <i>My recent eagles were first bathed in Acetone, then rinsed with distilled water, then sent in to be graded. >>
I'll never understand the rationale for using distilled water (or anything else, for that matter) after an acetone bath
David
<< <i>Distilled water is used to neutralize surfaces (pH of 7.0). Whatever you use to rinse the surface, other than distilled water, it has a pH other than 7.0 and will cause surface damage over time.
David >>
Box of 20
<< <i>Distilled water is used to neutralize surfaces (pH of 7.0). Whatever you use to rinse the surface, other than distilled water, it has a pH other than 7.0 and will cause surface damage over time.
David >>
Organic aprotic solvents, like acetone, don't have a pH at all. The acetone molecule can't donate or accept protons -- there are no -OH ends -- so it doesn't exhibit acidic or basic properties.
Acetone is much more volatile than water -- and mixes well with the latter -- so I would agree that it is a better final rinse.
<< <i>
<< <i>Distilled water is used to neutralize surfaces (pH of 7.0). Whatever you use to rinse the surface, other than distilled water, it has a pH other than 7.0 and will cause surface damage over time.
David >>
Organic aprotic solvents, like acetone, don't have a pH at all. The acetone molecule can't donate or accept protons -- there are no -OH ends -- so it doesn't exhibit acidic or basic properties.
Acetone is much more volatile than water -- and mixes well with the latter -- so I would agree that it is a better final rinse. >>
I'm glad there are people around here that set the story straight, like here when you've got people claiming pH in something like acetone, when in fact it has no pH. Admittingly I wasn't aware of any lack of pH with acetone but I also wouldn't go around making claims I know nothing about.
Thank you, planetsteve
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>Distilled water is used to neutralize surfaces (pH of 7.0). Whatever you use to rinse the surface, other than distilled water, it has a pH other than 7.0 and will cause surface damage over time.
David >>
Organic aprotic solvents, like acetone, don't have a pH at all. The acetone molecule can't donate or accept protons -- there are no -OH ends -- so it doesn't exhibit acidic or basic properties.
Acetone is much more volatile than water -- and mixes well with the latter -- so I would agree that it is a better final rinse. >>
I'm glad there are people around here that set the story straight, like here when you've got people claiming pH in something like acetone, when in fact it has no pH. Admittingly I wasn't aware of any lack of pH with acetone but I also wouldn't go around making claims I know nothing about.
Thank you, planetsteve >>
to clarify
no final rinse with distilled water necessary?
SAE set for sale on Ebay.....
Out of 21 of them 5 or so have started to develop milk spots and it pisses me off that it seems like eventually over time the whole collection might develop them too.....
TorinoCobra71
<< <i>That wy my set is up for sale minus the 1999:
SAE set for sale on Ebay.....
Out of 21 of them 5 or so have started to develop milk spots and it pisses me off that it seems like eventually over time the whole collection might develop them too.....
TorinoCobra71 >>
I started ya off
Go BIG or GO HOME. ©Bill
Can you choose the option between the three? If they replace it, isn't it bound to happen again?
If they buy it, is it at current market value?
If they conserve it, will it still be a 70? Or does it slab in a NCS holder.
I have a similar dilema with 96 ASE's 25 to be exact, all milked to death.
I have just given up on unc. ASE's. I love the design, but the coins love milk.
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>Distilled water is used to neutralize surfaces (pH of 7.0). Whatever you use to rinse the surface, other than distilled water, it has a pH other than 7.0 and will cause surface damage over time.
David >>
Organic aprotic solvents, like acetone, don't have a pH at all. The acetone molecule can't donate or accept protons -- there are no -OH ends -- so it doesn't exhibit acidic or basic properties.
Acetone is much more volatile than water -- and mixes well with the latter -- so I would agree that it is a better final rinse. >>
I'm glad there are people around here that set the story straight, like here when you've got people claiming pH in something like acetone, when in fact it has no pH. Admittingly I wasn't aware of any lack of pH with acetone but I also wouldn't go around making claims I know nothing about.
Thank you, planetsteve >>
to clarify
no final rinse with distilled water necessary? >>
ok all you Chemists....I would also like to have an answer to the above question.....
Sorry to hear that Torino. Damn milk, why... I tried an experiment. I took some 2005 Eagles and sprayed them with compressed air.
I hit em until the can got cold, and difluoroethane is seen coming out. The coin was wet like for a second, then it dried.
I wonder if this is the cause.
Bye the way I jump started your auction.
Regards,
Scott
my three sets of PCGS 69 first strike 20th anniv. ASE all developed ugly milk spots, unc. the most and rev proof next, reg proof the least.
Thats what these ASE's need. So far I'm lucky with vacuum sealed bags, but I used A Black and Decker unit.
I know there is still air inside the bags, cross my fingers.
Mr Mom, sorry to hear it, will it ever end. How much are the TPG's willing to absorb?
What if all slabbed ASE's get milked? PCGS is going to buy back all 250,000 ASE sets?
<< <i>Is there such a thing as a pure vacuum, where no environment is present?
Thats what these ASE's need. So far I'm lucky with vacuum sealed bags, but I used A Black and Decker unit.
I know there is still air inside the bags, cross my fingers. >>
for the coins that don`t go in dansco`s or slabs i keep them in a mylar flip. i bought a heat sealer and seal the opening. not much air in there with the coin.
<< <i>Sorry to hear that
What are "OGP capsules" ?
<< <i><<I called NGC about one of my Proof 20th ann. in a 70 holder that has some spots. They are going to replace, buy, or conserve it so im happy. I am also selling off all my silver eagles, i am not gonna chance it rather just cash in now while i can >>
Can you choose the option between the three? If they replace it, isn't it bound to happen again?
If they buy it, is it at current market value?
If they conserve it, will it still be a 70? Or does it slab in a NCS holder.
I have a similar dilema with 96 ASE's 25 to be exact, all milked to death.
I have just given up on unc. ASE's. I love the design, but the coins love milk. >>
NGC will not let you choose between the 3. If it does happen again i dont care cause it will be long gone cause im selling it regardless. If they do have to buy it back (cant find one or conserve it) it is at current market value! No matter how many you have that are milked just simply send them back under "appearance review" and list them on the invoice as if they where raw. Under special instructions just explain that the coins have milk spotted and you would like them conserved, replaced, or bought back. The only money you will be out is shipping it to them and the cost to ship it back.
<< <i>
<< <i>Sorry to hear that
What are "OGP capsules" ?
OGP = Original Government Packaging. It's just how the government ships the coins, like GSA slabs, brown Ikes, blue Ikes, etc.
<< <i>Is there such a thing as a pure vacuum, where no environment is present?
Thats what these ASE's need. So far I'm lucky with vacuum sealed bags, but I used A Black and Decker unit.
I know there is still air inside the bags, cross my fingers. >>
The closest you'll get is a glass envelope which has had a vacuum pulled on the inner atmosphere and sealed with a getter. It's probably cost prohibitive, plus glass breaks, and getters (metal caps) can be knocked off. Either one happens and your vacuum goes POOF!!!!!
Personally, I'd use an acetone bath, but I don't collect these SAEs, I only flip 'em.
storing it in food saver plastic, smart.
i am tempted to crack all of my RP 68 & 69's and acetone them and just keep them raw ('cept for the first strikes.) and all of my 2006 W burnished but most of that stash is still in sealed boxes. one raw 2006 Reverse ASE went for $300 recently and PR69's are catching $50-60 less.
i did crack my one and only RP PR67 and de-milked it and acetoned it. it is for my own raw set collection and looks purdy dang nice. fortunately the "milk zit" was on the reverse mirror so it was easy to get off. it was sent in a sealed set.
<< <i>there are only 460K 2006 w ASE's to go around. >>
Glad I got mine! Whew