Nice cards everyone--I just started building a 1955 Topps raw set in vg-ex condition and I gotta say I much prefer the look of the cards in the binders over being slabbed. On my set I have been putting all of the cards in a card saver then putting them in the sheets,Does anyone else do this? I bought all the star cards Clemente,Koufax etc... PSA graded then cracked them out and put them in the album and I feel alot better knowing they are in the card savers for extra protection.
I think it eliminates any movement of the cards in the sleeves. Just an extra layer of protection i guess. Im not sure if its needed but i do it because it feels more secure to me.
Great sets everyone. That 69 presents well in binders. We collected raw as kids and I like paging through the sets looking at all the names and stats on the back. Really can get back to basics and save enough money on one set (compared to graded0 to put together 3 more sets. Example: My 60 Topps football set was put together under $150.00. Now granted its not mint as the grade point average is about 5.5 raw. but it's not one of my favorite sets so why spend huge money gettting graded cards when I can spend the left over money on a mint 61 set? I want a complete run from 55-70, with a mixture of raw and graded complete sets. Keep showing pics of raw guys. Reminds me of days gone by and trading with your friends to complete your sets.
Speaking of trading, I've got about 100 1970 topps football and 30 or so 68 football commons (raw) that I would like to trade for the same. Condition 5-7 is fine with me. E-mail me at twodueces22@yahoo.com and let's get swapping.
W.C.Fields "I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.
Thanks for sharing everyone - I love the look of sets in albums!!!
I have 7 of those LightImpression binders with slipcovers and I really like them too. One question for you guys that sleeve the cards before putting them in album pages - what penney sleeves do you use? I have BCW pages and I tried the penney sleeve approach, but they didn't fit very well and stuck out the top too much. Any ideas on where I can get "smaller" sleeves that would work better? Thanks for your input
Take it easy, Jared
"You consider me the young apprentice, Caught between the Scylla and Charibdes, Hypnotized by you if I should linger, Staring at the ring around your finger" - Sting
Ray Thiel (1964-2007) - the man who showed me more wonderful games & gaming sessions than I ever dreamed possible... you ran out of hit points too young, my friend.
I do not even know what kind of penny sleeves i used, i bought them all at once and didn't pay attention to brand name.
I am just about 5 carda way from a midgrade 69 topps football set, ill post a pic when i get it officially completed. I am also working on a 51 bowman football set that i have just started on as well, that one has a ways to go though so it will be a while before i can show it off.
P.S.- I have around 30 of each 1969 topps football and baseball (from VG to exmt) in trade bait for 51 bowmans in midgrade.
Can one build a set because of a movie? Well, my second favorite baseball movie of all time is 61* and I think the 1962 set highlights that movie nicely, with the Maris card #1, the AL HR card as well as the Maris Hits 61 card. I have never been familiar with this set so many of the cards are/will be a surprise. I am amazed to see the number of subsets and as a former 63 set builder, the set content between these two years is so different. I am anxious to not only get the cards I mentioned above but also to see the Babe Ruth, Actions, All-Stars and Rookie Stars subsets. I currently have this set about 62% complete in mostly EXMT-NM and despite the unenthusiastic design, it will be an exciting and fun set to work on.
I try to strike a balance between high grade cards I really like to display vs. sets in binders.
My binder approach is a bit different. I prefer to have my binders sorted by team then by year then by alphabetical order (last name). I have a run from my birth year of 1970 to present; picking up factory Topps sets at Target and I do have all the updated sets to boot. It's a great way to see the teams evolve over the years, and you think man I don't remember this or that guy playing for that team.
I still need to fill holes from 1970 to 1975, but I don't focus on it as much as I should. Probably only about 200 cards I need. I've got two binder nearly full and it will become problematic when I transition to Volume 3. Some teams like the Royals, Pilots (keep with Seattle Mariner), Twins and Braves -- I'll go a bit further back into their inception.
Anyway, binder and set collecting of cards without creases and well-cented is a blast. Nothing better than slipping in a card to an empty slot.
I'd really like to transition from Ultra-Pro binders to archival with slip covers, but it would be costly. If we could go in on a huge lot as a group, I wonder what type of discount we could get. I could probably stomach $20 a pop per binder, but that's still about $1400 worth of binders.
I like the looks of a set in a binder, but for me I'd rather have the set in a box. It's more convienent, and I can put 3-4 sets in the space of 1 binder.
If I ever start an older set (1960s or so) I'll probably keep it in a binder until I complete it. Then into penny sleves in a box.
WOW! The fronts are great enough (I love bold colorful designs remember) but the backs are also magnificent! I don't think Topps ever did anything other than the standard gray background in other years so to see a solid black background with a very 60s appopriate olive green is quite distinctive. Can you show some more 60s/70s football sets? I know what the fronts/backs look like for baseball so it'd be cool to see them for other sports. Too bad the annual football Beckett chose not to include pictures of the backs of the card sets.
This is a great thread and I thought it deserved a bump. Perhaps raw sets may be the way to go. Afterall, isn't that what it was originally all about. I would still grade the key cards to a set, but my submissions (and they certainly wouldn't be to P$A) would decrease probably 80%. With the extra money saved, I can put that back into even more sets.
I've been saying this all along but the registry guys get totally carried away and spend more than they need to, thereby artifically inflating prices of "low pop" cards, then get pissed off when their sets may become devalued. To paraphrase a good friend of mine, if you just spent $500 on a $2 Nolan Ryan card, the half grade scale is the least of your problems.
Edit to add: I've said this before- Card grading caught on because it's an invaluable tool to help buy and sell cards more confidently. Everything else having to do with grading is superfluous.
I took the summer off due to three vacations/trips, my wife's surgery and my wife's 50th birthday. Now it's Labor Day and time to get back into working on these sets. For the years 1957-1972, I am just about 50% complete overall. I am trying to finish up three sets but some of the cards are difficult to find, esp. since not many people are selling much on eBay. My favorite dealer took part of the summer off too, so I'll see what the Fall will bring.
I too took off most of the summer, I only collect the current cards of the award winners now anyway. Soon though I''ll crank up the 54 Bowmans that I have and sell them on the Bay.
Comments
http://sportsfansnews.com/author/andy-fischer/
and I gotta say I much prefer the look of the cards in the binders over being slabbed.
On my set I have been putting all of the cards in a card saver then putting them in the sheets,Does anyone else do this?
I bought all the star cards Clemente,Koufax etc... PSA graded then cracked them out and put them in the album and I feel alot
better knowing they are in the card savers for extra protection.
Jake
http://sportsfansnews.com/author/andy-fischer/
http://sportsfansnews.com/author/andy-fischer/
and I like paging through the sets looking at all the names and stats on the back.
Really can get back to basics and save enough money on one set (compared to graded0
to put together 3 more sets. Example: My 60 Topps football set was put together
under $150.00. Now granted its not mint as the grade point average is about 5.5 raw.
but it's not one of my favorite sets so why spend huge money gettting graded cards when I
can spend the left over money on a mint 61 set? I want a complete run from 55-70, with
a mixture of raw and graded complete sets. Keep showing pics of raw guys. Reminds me
of days gone by and trading with your friends to complete your sets.
Speaking of trading, I've got about 100 1970 topps football and 30 or so 68 football
commons (raw) that I would like to trade for the same. Condition 5-7 is fine with me.
E-mail me at twodueces22@yahoo.com and let's get swapping.
"I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.
I have 7 of those LightImpression binders with slipcovers and I really like them too. One question for you guys that sleeve the cards before putting them in album pages - what penney sleeves do you use? I have BCW pages and I tried the penney sleeve approach, but they didn't fit very well and stuck out the top too much. Any ideas on where I can get "smaller" sleeves that would work better? Thanks for your input
Take it easy,
Jared
Caught between the Scylla and Charibdes,
Hypnotized by you if I should linger,
Staring at the ring around your finger" - Sting
Ray Thiel (1964-2007) - the man who showed me more wonderful games & gaming sessions than I ever dreamed possible... you ran out of hit points too young, my friend.
I am just about 5 carda way from a midgrade 69 topps football set, ill post a pic when i get it officially completed.
I am also working on a 51 bowman football set that i have just started on as well, that one has a ways to go though so it will be a while before i can show it off.
P.S.- I have around 30 of each 1969 topps football and baseball (from VG to exmt) in trade bait for 51 bowmans in midgrade.
http://sportsfansnews.com/author/andy-fischer/
My binder approach is a bit different. I prefer to have my binders sorted by team then by year then by alphabetical order (last name). I have a run from my birth year of 1970 to present; picking up factory Topps sets at Target and I do have all the updated sets to boot. It's a great way to see the teams evolve over the years, and you think man I don't remember this or that guy playing for that team.
I still need to fill holes from 1970 to 1975, but I don't focus on it as much as I should. Probably only about 200 cards I need. I've got two binder nearly full and it will become problematic when I transition to Volume 3. Some teams like the Royals, Pilots (keep with Seattle Mariner), Twins and Braves -- I'll go a bit further back into their inception.
Anyway, binder and set collecting of cards without creases and well-cented is a blast. Nothing better than slipping in a card to an empty slot.
I'd really like to transition from Ultra-Pro binders to archival with slip covers, but it would be costly. If we could go in on a huge lot as a group, I wonder what type of discount we could get. I could probably stomach $20 a pop per binder, but that's still about $1400 worth of binders.
Erik
http://sportsfansnews.com/author/andy-fischer/
If I ever start an older set (1960s or so) I'll probably keep it in a binder until I complete it. Then into penny sleves in a box.
My raw sets (if interested) on smugmug:
'71
'73
'74 master
'75 mini
'76
'77
'78
'79
'80
'84 donruss
Julen
RIP GURU
Ron
Buying Vintage, all sports.
Buying Woody Hayes, Les Horvath, Vic Janowicz, and Jesse Owens autographed items
<< <i>Finished another raw set in binder--
WOW! The fronts are great enough (I love bold colorful designs remember) but the backs are also magnificent! I don't think Topps ever did anything other than the standard gray background in other years so to see a solid black background with a very 60s appopriate olive green is quite distinctive. Can you show some more 60s/70s football sets? I know what the fronts/backs look like for baseball so it'd be cool to see them for other sports. Too bad the annual football Beckett chose not to include pictures of the backs of the card sets.
Dimes: 54S, 53P, 50P, 49S, 45D+S, 44S, 43D, 41S, 40D+S, 39D+S, 38D+S, 37D+S, 36S, 35D+S, all 16-34's
Quarters: 52S, 47S, 46S, 40S, 39S, 38S, 37D+S, 36D+S, 35D, 34D, 32D+S
74 Topps: 37,38,46,47,48,138,151,193,210,214,223,241,256,264,268,277,289,316,435,552,570,577,592,602,610,654,655
1997 Finest silver: 115, 135, 139, 145, 310
1995 Ultra Gold Medallion Sets: Golden Prospects, HR Kings, On-Base Leaders, Power Plus, RBI Kings, Rising Stars
Edit to add: I've said this before- Card grading caught on because it's an invaluable tool to help buy and sell cards more confidently. Everything else having to do with grading is superfluous.
I've been working on a 63F BB set for over 4 yrs - so I'm probably the slowest on the planet!
When I finish my 63F set, I'll be going back to finish a 66T set - I'll probably need some luck.
mike
of the award winners now anyway. Soon though I''ll crank up the 54 Bowmans
that I have and sell them on the Bay.
Steve
still working on my 65' set, but only 40 cards short now; dont need any really pricey cards at this point; just gotta hunt them down!
Im considering making a run at 1972, my birth year set.