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Help Me Price 1973 PSA

NolieNolie Posts: 29
in Trading Cards & Memorabilia Forum
Guys;

I need your expert help once again. I have recently picked up about 8 1973 Baseball PSA 9's and 8's that are graded oc. I don't know haw to price them fairly. I have Rose, Bench, Yaz, Brock that are all graded 9 0c and a Ryan at an 8 oc. A friend has expressed interest, but I don't know how to come up witht he price that is not too much or too little. I just got back into collecting after 15 years and I am a rookie with the PSA stuff.(if you coldn't tell)

Thanks as Always;

Nolie

Comments

  • jdip9jdip9 Posts: 1,894 ✭✭✭
    OC stuff is generally 2 grades lower...so your 9OC's are like PSA 7's...although if they just slightly OC, a fairer price may be closer to what it's worth as an 8.

    hope that helps.
  • NolieNolie Posts: 29
    It's the most help I've gotten. The player or population does not matter? I see some people asking buy it now pricers that are between the 8 and 9. I assume they are trying to score a good price on something that a newer collector may not realize. I did not know if that was the case or because of the player if it made a difference.

    Thanks
  • jimq112jimq112 Posts: 3,511 ✭✭✭
    Some cards with low pop and high demand are crazy high in 9s (or even 8s if there are no 9s) but the OC changes everything. The qualifiers limit the number of buyers who could be interested.

    A low pop card (not many 9s) might bring $500 for a common, where it might only be worth $20 as an 8. That card as a psa 9 oc is only worth the 8 or less money, it doesn't get the premium that the 9 gets.

    An example -

    1950 bowman sam jethroe rc.

    smr 9 - 285 pop 4 (9 oc pop 1)
    smr 8 - 150 pop 24
    smr 7 - 60 pop 27

    It's a low pop in 9 so I would expect a 9 to bring several times the 285 smr price. An 8 sold recently on ebay for $375. I bought the 9 oc last year on ebay for about $30. There just isn't as much demand for the oc cards.

    But like jdip9 said, if they're a good looking oc card you can sell them for closer to the grade without the qualifier.

    Also a card that is almost always found off center (69 topps lou brock) will bring a big premium if it's found in high grade and well centered.

    Hope that helped a little instead of making it worse!
    image
  • NolieNolie Posts: 29
    It helps! I just want to get some of the basic ideas understood before I continue to bid, price and buy cards that I don't fully understand. I don't need any help looking stupid these days, so al of the info you guys give really helps!!! I also don't want to get ripped off if I see an oc that I want. WHy do they bother grading mint as a nine if the oc will just bring it down to a near mint 7. It just seems more sensible to take everything into consideration including the qualifiers and just give it a # as is Maybe I feel this way becasue of my idiocy and confusion. Thanks for the explaintion. I appereciate it.

    Nolie
  • Alfonz24Alfonz24 Posts: 3,114 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Also note that if the oc is not very bad, some people may buy these and resubmit asking for no qualifiers.

    In the above example of the 1950 Jethroe 9OC. Most people discount qualifiers 2 grades (mainly because that is what the PSA Registery set does for qualifiers), so they will look at what a PSA 7 sells for. But if the oc looks like the card could get a PSA8 when asking for no qualifiers, some may take a chance and hope to buy at a 7 price (or even lower because some buyers will not even bid on qualifiers) and hopefully flip for the price of an 8.

    So to answer your question, there are many factors when trying to price a card with qualifiers.
    #LetsGoSwitzerlandThe Man Who Does Not Read Has No Advantage Over the Man Who Cannot Read. The biggest obstacle to progress is a habit of “buying what we want and begging for what we need.”You get the Freedom you fight for and get the Oppression you deserve.
  • jimq112jimq112 Posts: 3,511 ✭✭✭


    << <i> WHy do they bother grading mint as a nine if the oc will just bring it down to a near mint 7. It just seems more sensible to take everything into consideration including the qualifiers and just give it a # as is
    Nolie >>



    The 9 means that the card is great, OTHER THAN the centering. You can see the centering but you can't see the surface, the corners, the other things that add up to make it a 9. Some people (like me) are bargain hunters and would rather have a card that is in great condition but was a factory defect (centering) compared to a card that has a human defect (corner dinged)

    Beckett does it differently, they grade corners, edges, surface and centering. Then the card can't get a grade higher than one point above any of the subgrades. Let's say centering is awful, and it would be a 2/10. The card can be beautiful with perfect gloss, edges, corners, etc but it can only be a 3.

    I guess this is an example of the way beckett does it. This card doesn't have subgrades on the label but you can see the idea. The colors are great, the corners are sharp, it's an overall nice card and I think PSA would call it an 8 oc. But beckett apparently thought the centering was a 4, this card is a 5. This is a hard to find clemente card and I was happy to have one at a 5 or 6 price.

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  • jimq112jimq112 Posts: 3,511 ✭✭✭
    I should have added also that the 9 oc may have the same centering as a 7, but the 7 isn't oc because the standards are lower for a 7 than for a 9.

    Example - the centering is very close to equal between these 2 cards but because the 9 is nicer it got an oc qualifier. I'll pay as much or more for the 9 oc all day long.

    image
    image
  • stownstown Posts: 11,321 ✭✭✭
    As others have said, typically you should knock down an OC qualifier 2 spots. In regards to pricing:

    SMR

    Rose 9-$425 / 7-$25
    Bench 9-$325 / 7-$11
    Yastrzemski 9-$40 / 7-$15
    Brock 9-$85 / 7-$10

    Ryan 8-$100 / 6-$22
    So basically my kid won't be able to go to college, but at least I'll have a set where the three most expensive cards are of a player I despise ~ CDsNuts
  • NolieNolie Posts: 29
    you guys are top notch!

    Thanks to all
  • MrGMrG Posts: 623 ✭✭✭
    Nolie,

    When I first began to submit my 1973 RAW cards to PSA, I did not have a very good grading eye, and many cards received low and qualifier grades. (I also bought a number of star cards with qualifiers, because I did not realize the difference.) image Some I resubmitted, asking for "No Qualifiers", and some I just cracked and placed back into my raw sets.

    My experience with prices for buying and selling 1973 graded, tells me you will get somewhat less than you believe for the star cards. (This is due to their greater population.) And, much more than expected for low pop variety stars and commons.

    A few examples:

    My #130 Rose PSA 9 cost me $300. I sold the PSA 8 that I upgraded, and another PSA 8 for $40 and $50 respectively. (I sold the $50 PSA 8 a few years back when fewer cards were graded.) I also sold a PSA 9OC for $24, and two PSA 6s for $5 each.

    My #235 Yaz PSA 9 cost me $980. (At the time it was a 1 of 2 with no PSA 10s.) I sold the PSA 8 that I upgraded for $36. Two PSA 7s for $12 & $13, and a PSA 6 for $5. I cracked another PSA 5 and put it back in my raw collection.

    My #320 Brock PSA 9 cost me $80. I sold the PSA 9OC that I upgraded for $8. I cracked two PSA 6s and a PSA 5 and put them back in my raw collection.

    The most I have sold a qualified card is a #100 Aaron that I sold on eBay for $46. I also sold a PSA 8 for the same amount a few months later.

    As others have said the best guide is to use the two-grade-lower technique as a baseline, and haggle from that point in your favor. image

    Cheers,
    Michael
    Michael Gaytan (MrG)
    TGF Collection
    TGF Sports
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