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Poll: My very first hypothetical

You are wandering the bourse with your mind set on finding THE Capped Bust Half for your collection. THE CBH would be a VF coin with original surfaces and no signs of damage (new scratches, bad rim bumps, et cetera) and no overwhelming evidence of cleaning. A dipped and retoned coin would be acceptable.
After wandering all day, and suffering from "Bourse Food", you arrive at the last two tables. The first table has a raw VF CBH that fits your high standards! Oh the joy! But before you shell out, you look at the last table. just in case. This table has THE CBH as well! Only this CBH is slabbed as a VF20 by a leading TPG.
You walk back and forth comparing the two coins. There just does not seem to be an appreciable difference in overall quality. Both coins are acceptable.
Now- the question: The raw CBH is priced less than the slabbed one (For arguement's sake, they are the same date). Which one do you buy?
Thanks,
Amanda
After wandering all day, and suffering from "Bourse Food", you arrive at the last two tables. The first table has a raw VF CBH that fits your high standards! Oh the joy! But before you shell out, you look at the last table. just in case. This table has THE CBH as well! Only this CBH is slabbed as a VF20 by a leading TPG.
You walk back and forth comparing the two coins. There just does not seem to be an appreciable difference in overall quality. Both coins are acceptable.
Now- the question: The raw CBH is priced less than the slabbed one (For arguement's sake, they are the same date). Which one do you buy?
Thanks,
Amanda

I'm a YN working on a type set!
My Buffalo Nickel Website Home of the Quirky Buffaloes Collection!
Proud member of the CUFYNA
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Comments
TorinoCobra71
The raw one.
You can take the money you save and buy a Intercept Shield for your new coin, with money left over
Amanda, hypothetically speaking, how much less?
<< <i><<The raw CBH is priced less than the slabbed one >>
Amanda, hypothetically speaking, how much less?
SmartyPants™
TorinoCobra71
<< <i><<The raw CBH is priced less than the slabbed one >>
Amanda, hypothetically speaking, how much less?
I wanted to put in a difference, Mark, but I have never priced these before. Plus, the PCGS price guide does not include values for VF for some reason.
Plus, what is substantial to me might not be substantial to someone else. Assume about 25-50 dollars. I guess.
-Amanda
I'm a YN working on a type set!
My Buffalo Nickel Website Home of the Quirky Buffaloes Collection!
Proud member of the CUFYNA
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Doggedly collecting coins of the Central American Republic.
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(OTOH, all the bust halves I have are raw, and they're all counterfeit!)
(That last comment should not be read in any sense negatively.)
Ed. S.
(EJS)
Ok, me too.
<< <i>No two coins are equal. I would buy the one I prefered regardless of plastic. BTW, I am very picky when it gets near the end of a show. Unless they are spectacular I would likely pass on both. The idea of going home empty handed near the end of a show often adds a point or two to the grade. I have a couple of coins I bought at the end of a show that I wish I had not. I have learned it is OK to go home empty handed. >>
This advice is worth a thread in itself.
That is a good point. If I was comfortable that the raw coin was "all there" and assuming the above quote isn't coming into play I would buy the raw coin.
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<< <i><<No two coins are equal. I would buy the one I prefered regardless of plastic>>
Ok, me too.
That advice is ok is you are a former professional grader with a trained eye, but for the everage Joe or Joanna, pay the money and buy the PCGS coin. (Not all slabs are created equally). You'll have greater peace of mind, and an easiery time selling a slabbed coin. A no brainer. If the price difference is so great you can't afford the slabbed coin, wait -- there are always good deals to be had.
Kyle
I assumed you were confident in your abilities, and therefore chose the cheaper coin (raw).
However, reading further and noting you made the spread ($20-50) just about the price of grading a coin, I would pick the coin I liked the most, regardless of the holder or lack thereof.
Assuming, for a moment, that the coins were truly equal...I would evaluate my use of the coin in more detail. For instance, if I were planning on selling the coin in the near future (say a year or so), I would probably consider the value of the slab more. Furthermore, hypothetically speaking of course, the CBH were headed for a certain hypothetical Dansco 7070
Hypothetically yours...Mike
Anyway, if the only difference between the two is a $20-50 markup for a plastic holder, I'd probably buy the raw one, then put it in a Coin World holder for $1.75. Heck, I'd even reconfigure my VAMSlab software for CBHs (O'Slabs?). By the time I go to sell it, which probably won't be soon since it's the perfect CBH, potential buyers would quibble over the grade, anyway. Of course, I do have about 10-15 CBHs in VF-AU in TPG plastic.
(Congrats on your first hypothetical, BTW.)
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<< <i>
<< <i>No two coins are equal. I would buy the one I prefered regardless of plastic. BTW, I am very picky when it gets near the end of a show. Unless they are spectacular I would likely pass on both. The idea of going home empty handed near the end of a show often adds a point or two to the grade. I have a couple of coins I bought at the end of a show that I wish I had not. I have learned it is OK to go home empty handed. >>
This advice is worth a thread in itself. >>
You could call the thread "closing time"
I voted raw, if you like the coin, trust your eye, and aren't looking to resell it - which your premise seems to support.
Check out my current listings: https://ebay.com/sch/khunt/m.html?_ipg=200&_sop=12&_rdc=1
Now, if it a MS63 Bust Half instead of VF, or a key date vs. a common date for a type album, or the coin is $2 1/2 gold Indian that is widely counterfeited, the answer would be to buy the slabbed coin. VF Bust halves are somewhere in the range of $100 or so depending on how nice and how good a person can bargain. That may be a good deal of money for some people, but it is really on the low price end for most people to be sending in the coin to PCGS. If the price is more like $200, the answer might be different.
The original poster also has shown some talent for grading. For a wet behind the ears newbie, again I might have a different answer because they might go for some whizzed and polished shiny coin that looks cool to their newbie eyes. However for someone who has a good grasp of grading, buying a circulated coin of relatively modest cost sight seen, where the odds of a fake or altered or enhanced coin are relatively small, raw is the no-brainer choice.
<< <i>I'd track down OKBustchaser and get his opinion..
Thanks for the plug.
I would recommend the raw one. If "THE CBH" for a collection is in VF grade then I would want the entire (type????) collection raw. Chances of being hurt too badly on any one coin in such a collection would be minimal and the value of most of the coins in the collection would not warrant grading fees.
On the other hand, if the collection was high AU to MS in grade then I would recommend slabbed coins. I feel that most average collectors (for that matter the average dealer) aren't astute enough in the characteristics of all series to buy properly. A mistake at this level (on many of the coins in a set) could be quite painful.
I bet there are a few people on here who know me that are
<< <i>Which one do you buy? >>
Neither. I collect Modern Canadian Crap!!
<< <i>Many people are over confident about their abilities in grading and determining whether a coin has been cleaned or suffers from some other problem. Take advantage of the expertise of the grading companies and buy a holdered coin if it's not significantly more expensive. You can always crack it out. >>
Luke Skywalker: Your overconfidence is your weakness.
Emperor Palpatine: Your faith in your friends is yours.
In other words, the TPGs don't identify problems consistently, and there is a bit more wiggle room on problems for early stuff than there is for Morgan dollars.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution