SO I want to collect t206 Lets talk Tobacco Cards
FRNAllStar
Posts: 322
I'm preparing to collect t206. Love the cards,history, and originality. Before I spend a $.01 I'm gonna do the research and get educated. So what are good grades to buy? Good places to buy? Tactics? What to watch for? Websites?
PLease tell me your thoughts about tobacco catds.
Basically any tip or referance would be helpful. I'd also love some stories and facts.
Thank You for your contributions.
PLease tell me your thoughts about tobacco catds.
Basically any tip or referance would be helpful. I'd also love some stories and facts.
Thank You for your contributions.
0
Comments
Here is some good sites that have been passed along to me from a friend.
online price checker...
TCC
Museum
I'm probably a little over a third of the way in and am lacking most of the notable Hall of Famers, but you can check out my collection at www.imageevent.com/yawie99.
<< <i>would buying raw examples off ebay be a good start. I was thinking cheaper cards with good eye appeal. Touched corners and wrinkles would be ok. I would stay away from paper loss and stains. >>
Due to trimming on many raw t-206's, you may want to look at some lower grade PSA examples. You can find many PSA 3's for example on ebay for relatively short money, which might be a better way to start out than going with raw. Lower-grades such as a PSA 3 or 4 often gets you a good deal on a card with eye appeal, since sometimes the submitter missed a little crease, and they were anticipating a 6 but got a 4 instead, which sells at a fraction of the 6 price.
Anyway, I personally think image is everything when it comes to T and E cards. I can handle corner wear, creases and even unobtrusive paper loss or marks, but I really hate cards with washed out color or registration that isn't close to perfect. It's another issue that has lessened my affinity for graded cards. I've purchased many PSA and SGC cards that I end up reselling because while the cards may very well meet the given company's standards for a certain grade, they don't meet my own eye appeal standards.
Robert
For starters, check out those links provided by those above. Thats a great way to get a good feel for the set.
Second, I have (as do many T206 collectors) a great research piece done by Scot Reader, whose been collecting and researching T206 cards for years. PM me your email so i can send it over if you havent already downloaded it or received one from steve.
Next, I have an excel file of the complete list of T206s...including back variations (the T206 museum gives a checklist..but not as comprehensive). I can send it over if you have gotten it.
My advice would be to start out with a few commons to get a feel for the card. If you can get them raw, that would be even better...allows you to feel the texture of the card and know more of its intricacies that you might now get if they are slabbed. I would trust buying raw commons from big time sellers like sandiegowill or mike wheat. Here's a list of top pre war card sellers on ebay:
http://www.oldcardboard.com/ref/ebay-sellers/ebay-sellers.asp
Next, aim for the big cards. Collectors have always advised me to go after the big cards (minus the big 4...unless you have the type of money to buy them, of course). T206's have seen a dramatic increase in prices over the last year....and the price trend has always been upward. So, buy your HOFs now because in one year they might be 20-25% more in market price. Portraits are higher priced than their non portrait counterparts. Southern leaguers also go for a premium.
Think about how you want to fit back variations in your collection. There are so many ways to collect T206, and back variations are a way to mix and match....and to extend your collection.
Im not sure how much you are willing to spend, but most collectors start out collecting vg-vg/ex...PSA 3-PSA 4. These cards have actually seen a big rise in price over the last half year...so much so that ive been nearly priced out on a lot of the cards. My tactic is to buy PSA 1-2 cards with great eye appeal. They are less expensive and look just as good as a PSA 4 with perhaps paper loss or writing in the back.
To get a good idea of the market value of T206s you can do one of two things: 1.) Check realized prices on Ebay, of course and/or 2.) check out vintagecardprices.com. They provide T206 prices realized for, i believe, the last few months for ALL major auctions. You have to pay a monthly fee, but you can try it out for a month to see if you like it.
Hope that helps. Please PM me anytime...as i always need help as well collecting this set.
My guess would be fair or good?
"I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.
Nick
Reap the whirlwind.
Need to buy something for the wife or girlfriend? Check out Vintage Designer Clothing.
"I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.
<< <i>How many cards are in the set? (not counting back variations...but including portrait/action variations) >>
524, I think.
2dueces - I've seen a PSA 2 grade on cards with a pencil eraser-head size area of paper loss on a blank area of the back.
Nick
Reap the whirlwind.
Need to buy something for the wife or girlfriend? Check out Vintage Designer Clothing.
I hope to acquire a Magie at some point, but I think the Wagner, Plank and Doyle are just pipedreams for the great majority of T206 collectors.
Personally if they are worth there money I would'nt mind purchasing them and in high grades.
Is the (mk) something you should stay away from and for what reasons.
Also cards with trimming. Would this be noticed by a crisper edge and corner than others. I would think if you were buying in person you could make a template out of index card for checking. But on internet what tips are there.
I still wouldn't mind raw cards that are trimmed only if they were discounted and most likely in low end condition because there is not so much $ into the card and it's for your personal collection to add quanity=) only at a good deal though.
The T206 set is long before our time and I don't think we need a thread about it. How about starting a new discussion and tell us about your favorite Chinese restaurants?
your friend,
douchebag193
<< <i>FRNAllStar
The T206 set is long before our time and I don't think we need a thread about it. How about starting a new discussion and tell us about your favorite Chinese restaurants?
your friend,
douchebag193 >>
The HOFers from this set will always be around. No need to spend wildly on the Cobb's or Johnson's right now as the prices are very hot. I sold my Pre war stuff during the hot times, and made out well even though they were bought just a year or two ago. The cards are nowhere near to be considered rare and they aren't that tough to find. There is always a Cobb or WJ listed on Ebay every day. They aren't going to disappear. I would be surprised if the prices don't come back down a bit in time. A sellers market for sure on those. I think the commons are fairly easy to get, and they are relatively cheap.
Stone, what is your fascination with chinese restaurants
Mark
"I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.
"I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.
"I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.
<< <i>Stone, what is your fascination with chinese restaurants >>
Skin
Are you guys reading closely?
The post about the chinese restaurant started with someone who's using my icon - Enema.
mike
"I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.
"skinpinch"
Prices reflect demand. So by saying prices are gonna go down your saying demand will drop.
Prices also reflect quanity. I don't think there is gonna be a major injection of tobacco cards into the market.
PERTAINING TO THIS MARKET
SO the only way for prices to drop is for demand to drop. There are no other factors of market manipulation in the tobacco card market (Ceteris Peribus). They are not making any more! Ever!
Also the older something is the more it should rise in value.
Oh and another thing how fragile is paper? (sarcasim)
As far as trimmed cards go, the best tip I can offer is to search for threads on these boards about trimmed cards, and look at the pictures and discussion.
Nick
Reap the whirlwind.
Need to buy something for the wife or girlfriend? Check out Vintage Designer Clothing.
<< <i>
<< <i>Stone, what is your fascination with chinese restaurants >>
Skin
Are you guys reading closely?
The post about the chinese restaurant started with someone who's using my icon - Enema.
mike >>
As for my first purchases I have a goal. To assemble a 5 card set of t206. that would be a grade 1,2,3,4 and 5.
That way I can study and learn the cards in theree different conditions.
Raw single cards seem overpriced on ebay considering your not veiwing them in person and by photo. Does anyone else think that?
I would not buy raw cards for no more than maybe $10 or $15 depending on your budget starting out. It takes so time to be able to tell what is trimmed and what is not.
I would buy 1 or two trimmed cards. Honest sellers will sell them as such. This will give you a good reference to look at to see what they look like trimmed.
T206 cards that have flaws but still present a nice picture on the front do have a good deal of value in them. Many folks will pay good money for a hard to find card that might have back damage but looks as nice as can be on the front.
Start out by buying cards with the common Piedmont and Sweet Caporal backs. Cards with the harder to find backs like Hindu, American Beauty, and Lennox can cost a lot.
Go to the Network54 message board and just read the posts. The info there is incredible.
As far as graded cards with better resale value, I have found the both SGC and PSA graded T206 will sell with strong prices. However, the edge goes to PSA.
As far as accuracy SGC is just as good as PSA when it comes to grading accuracy.
As far as who to buy from on Ebay that is honest, I bought a good portion of my cards from Ebay ID PeteB316 who is as good as they come. he will list a card raw as trimmed if he thinks so and he does a pretty good job describing condition.
For the hall of fame cards and hard to find cards be prepared to open your wallet wide. Prices are going up on these bad boys everyday.
Hope this helps,
Paul
"I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.
You do make a very valid point about the quantity of t206 cards. Patience should pay off. WHile there is a sustainable demand with this product. the quanity may allow you to be more selective in quality or price.
"I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.
"I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.
2dueces that psa 2 is wonderful. Wonder what makes that card a 2? is there crease or a mark?
Here's my 2. Its an 350-460 overprint back with a pencil mark on the back. Eye appeal over grade. buy the card not the holder.
"I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.
The fact you said alot of t206 exist has kept me to the principle to only collect eye appeal. Be patient. Quanity is nothing to quality. I'm not talking high grades only, I'm talking all grades becuase 1's with Eye appeal are SEXY.
Personally I understand how one could go for quanity and sacrifice eye appeal. I notice cards that have paperloss or heavy marking or heavy creasing are good bargains. This would provide you with alot of examples. However this isn't my style.
"I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.