I'll guess MS-63, because of weak strike, although luster appears to give it a shot at MS-64, and contact marks are magnified by your large and detailed photo.
However I'm more interested in how you took that excellent photo of the 1921 Peace Dollar? Is that your original artwork, and if so -- very well done!!
Stuart
Collect 18th & 19th Century US Type Coins, Silver Dollars, $20 Gold Double Eagles and World Crowns & Talers with High Eye Appeal
"Luck is what happens when Preparation meets Opportunity"
I'll guess MS64. The strike is actually slightly better than average for 1921 High-relief Peace dollars, and the obverse is very clean. The scratches on the reverse hold it out of consideration for an MS65 grade, IMO.
Stuart, thank you for your kind words! These are my images, but it's been a struggle for me to take satisfactory photos of Peace dollars. I finally am getting better at it, though each coin seems to present a challenge. I have to thank the numerous superb coin photographers on this board, as I've learned from many of them. I should also thank specifically mgoodm3 for his must-read coin photography article and for specific lighting and macro lens advice, and Russ for suggestions about lighting. The advice I've found most helpful includes:
Get plenty of separation between the coin and the camera and lights. In these images, the camera was about 15" above the coin. I abandoned my camera's built-in macro function and instead bought a macro lens attachment that has enabled more separation. Light the coins at a high angle. In this case, I used a single 100 W GE Reveal bulb (housed in a desk lamp) as close to the camera as I could get. Experiment! Changing the orientation of the coin, the angle of the light(s), camera settings, etc., is sometimes time-consuming, but can really pay off.
Thanks for your guesses, everyone! This coin graded MS62 at PCGS. As the only person to guess this grade, crito wins one 'attaboy!'
I was a bit surprised at this grade, as I expected a 63 or 64: the luster is strong, Liberty's cheek is clean and satiny, and the hits on the obverse are confined to lower-visibility areas. However, as some of you have pointed out, the strike is a bit mushy, there is some chatter on the reverse, and there is indeed a staple scratch on the obverse. Did the staple scratch get me close to a bodybag? Is MS62 a reasonable net grade? Inquiring minds want to know!
I can't account for the MS62 grade based upon the images, though images are often misleading. I can say, however, that the strike should NOT have negatively affected the grade. I have seen many MS65's and some MS66's with strikes which were weaker than on this coin.
Coinguy1, can one staple scratch lead to a 1-2 point deduction? Should it have instead led to a body bag? Maybe Peace dollars with spotty rim toning like this one just "don't look good in PCGS holders" and get nailed?
Just looking for understanding -- thanks for your insights!
IMO, that's a borderline staple scratch; any larger and the coin's "scratched", any smaller and it wouldn't be a 2-3 point deduction from Ms64 or 65 coin otherwise. there is a little action under E Plur too, but i love the toning around Peace
quite a bit of coin for an MS62, probably worth more out of the holder
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-Amanda
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However I'm more interested in how you took that excellent photo of the 1921 Peace Dollar? Is that your original artwork, and if so -- very well done!!
Stuart
Collect 18th & 19th Century US Type Coins, Silver Dollars, $20 Gold Double Eagles and World Crowns & Talers with High Eye Appeal
"Luck is what happens when Preparation meets Opportunity"
Get plenty of separation between the coin and the camera and lights. In these images, the camera was about 15" above the coin. I abandoned my camera's built-in macro function and instead bought a macro lens attachment that has enabled more separation. Light the coins at a high angle. In this case, I used a single 100 W GE Reveal bulb (housed in a desk lamp) as close to the camera as I could get. Experiment! Changing the orientation of the coin, the angle of the light(s), camera settings, etc., is sometimes time-consuming, but can really pay off.
JohnI was a bit surprised at this grade, as I expected a 63 or 64: the luster is strong, Liberty's cheek is clean and satiny, and the hits on the obverse are confined to lower-visibility areas. However, as some of you have pointed out, the strike is a bit mushy, there is some chatter on the reverse, and there is indeed a staple scratch on the obverse. Did the staple scratch get me close to a bodybag? Is MS62 a reasonable net grade? Inquiring minds want to know!
Thanks for playing!
John
Just looking for understanding -- thanks for your insights!
quite a bit of coin for an MS62, probably worth more out of the holder
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