breaking up proof and mint sets

EricSan

Hi, I've recently gotten back to filling in some of my modern coin books. Rather than using the Whitman albums, or others, I've been placing my coins into 2x2 cardboard and mylar holders and putting them into vinyl holder pages. In order to have all of my coins together as a series, I was thinking about breaking the coins out of my proof and uncirculated sets. This way, I could have all of my state quarters together (uncirc, clad proof, silver proof), all of my jefferson nickels, kennedy halves, etc. I have proof sets back to the 1950s and uncirc sets back to the 1960s so far.

Is there some reason that I should NOT break up these sets to create sets of individual series? I was thinking that they are more enjoyable when each series is together. The only draw back that I can think of is that I would not be able to sell sets year by year any more, but this doesn't really bother me...

Thanks for your insights!
Eric

BillJones

While you are correct in your assertion that the sets would be more enjoyable to view from a collector’s perspective, the financial and storage ramifications would prompt me not to do it. Most modern Proof singles, with the exception of slabbed pieces with very high grades one them, like PR-70 Cameo, are “one way” purchases. Collectors buy them to put them in sets or crack then out of sets, and then really have no hope of ever getting all of their money out of the coins ever again. In other words you usually can never sell these coins for the price you paid for them or value they would have had in a mint sealed Proof set.

I’ve seen countless numbers of Proof coins go bad after they were removed from their mint sealed holders. The reason is that most coin albums and holders, including cardboard 2x2s, have impurities in them that tone the coins and lower their value.

If you want to crack the coins out of their Proof set holders or cut them out of their mint set packages, go ahead if it pleases you. But bear in mind that doing will probably cost you money.

Russ

<< <i>I've been placing my coins into 2x2 cardboard and mylar holders and putting them into vinyl holder pages. >>



Those vinyl pages are a very bad idea for storing proof coins.

Russ, NCNE

TheRaven

I would not do this, but that is me.....

Why are vinyl pages bad for proof coins?

Russ

<< <i>Why are vinyl pages bad for proof coins? >>



Because they leach contaminants and haze up the coins.

Russ, NCNE

EricSan

Thanks for your thoughts, Bill. Russ, if the vinyl pages are no good, is there a better alternative? I had a few Harco albums, but my proof Ikes seem to have clouded over in them, the uncirculated ones seem fine after 20 years or so. I don't really like the Dansco albums that seem to be popular. Am I just better off maintaining a collection of proof and uncirc sets then?

Eric

Russ

If you'd really like to cut them out, use an Intercept Shield system with their 2x2 holders and the album they make. That's the safest way for long-term storage of uncertified proof coins.

Russ, NCNE

cladking

<< <i>While you are correct in your assertion that the sets would be more enjoyable to view from a collector’s perspective, the financial and storage ramifications would prompt me not to do it. Most modern Proof singles, with the exception of slabbed pieces with very high grades one them, like PR-70 Cameo, are “one way” purchases. Collectors buy them to put them in sets or crack then out of sets, and then really have no hope of ever getting all of their money out of the coins ever again. In other words you usually can never sell these coins for the price you paid for them or value they would have had in a mint sealed Proof set.

I’ve seen countless numbers of Proof coins go bad after they were removed from their mint sealed holders. The reason is that most coin albums and holders, including cardboard 2x2s, have impurities in them that tone the coins and lower their value.

If you want to crack the coins out of their Proof set holders or cut them out of their mint set packages, go ahead if it pleases you. But bear in mind that doing will probably cost you money. >>



There is an active market in BU and proof singles and rolls. Most of the sets are worth more
apart than they are together. While selling the singles might be a little problematical, it's cert-
ainly easy enough to sell rolls and complete modern sets. It should be remembered (especially
with the rolls) that poorly made or tarnished coins will be rejected. Usually this is around 5%
of proof set coins and 10% of mint set coins but can be as high as 50% on '76 tI Ikes or 100%
on '68 cents.

You might want to compare the value of the set with the value of the coins in it. As BillJones says;
this can be expensive for some dates. This would include many of the pre-59 and post-'92 proofs
as well as the '95, '97, and '99 mint sets. Otherwise it i actually profitable to destroy them. You can
always order the singles of those that are too expensive to cut and pay for it by selling the sets.

EricSan

As I was purchasing some individual proof coins in the 1980s, I do remember a local dealer telling me that I would do better to purchase the whole set and break it up if I was after proofs. These comments were made before some of the more recent sets that are pointed out by cladking became available, so I was wondering about the viability of this statement today.

Russ, I saw the intercept 2x2s, but I did not see any pages that would hold them. It would seem that this is the best option next to leaving them in their original packaging..

Thanks,
Eric

Russ

I just did a little searching around and it seems Intercept Shield doesn't make an album for their 2x2 holders. I thought they did. As long as the coin is in the holder, an alternative constructed of non-pvc plastic that holds that size should be fine.

Russ, NCNE

EricSan

Thanks, Russ. I didn't find a page for the Intercept 2x2s either - I'm surprised that they don't make them...

Eric

CoinResource

I keep my better coins in a Intercept 2x2 box and flip through them. Not quite an album but it works.

KoinDawg

You can use Air-Tites and they even have books with pages to put the Air-Tites in. There are "books" for proof sets, or all Jeffersons, whatever you need. Or you can make a custom book with different pages to store in whatever format you want. I've used Air-Tites for my American Silver Eagle set and no toning, not even the 1986.

Gemineye

The breaking up of one's proof and mint sets are really a personal preference.I for one take my two favorite proof issues
and place them into intercept 2x2 along with their storage boxes.The other coins are placed in regular hard whitman 2x2
with intercept storage boxes.
Protection from the elements is the main idea and the casual inspection of the coins from time to time is what I am looking for...

AU58WALKERS

I have my pcgs walkers in a eagle plastic binder...is that a problem?

kiyote

I did the break-up game; I really wish I hadn't. If I hadn't, I'd have a complete run of proof and mint sets from the 60s to date, including silver. They're much easier to sell and will bring more money in the original packaging, *especially* the mint sets. One on hand, they look great in my capital plastic holders, but between buying the pricy holders and breaking them out, I'll be underwater until I'm 90.