Which Morgan?
ledzep87
Posts: 1,108 ✭✭✭
There is a coin show in my area next weekend and I was hoping that I could find some decent Morgan dollars-so far, I have none. My question is what should I look for or is there anything that I should be aware of when looking at these dollars? Thank you!
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Go enjoy the coin show and look at some Morgans, but hold off any purchases until you've learned more about the series. As others have mentioned, a book should be your first purchase. It will pay for itself almost immediately after you buy your first coin.
<< <i>Find a used copy of Wayne Miller's Morgan and Peace Dollar book >>
That's a tough one to find...I finally got one off eBay a while back...
Do yourself a favor and take the time and read a couple of books. Look at my website. It should help.
Say what? Buying anacs morgans and ngc morgans is like buying ntc morgans?
I specialize in Wisconsin currency! Looking for information on WI national banknotes. Census stands at 12,318 notes.
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<< <i>buy some certified by NTC, PCI, ICG, ANACS and NGC. >>
And a big ol' Costco box of Kool Aid
<< <i>There is a coin show in my area next weekend and I was hoping that I could find some decent Morgan dollars-so far, I have none. My question is what should I look for or is there anything that I should be aware of when looking at these dollars? Thank you! >>
IF you just want one coin, I'd look at the PCGS Buy/Sell boards here-- As a rule the people knew what they are buying and are willing to sell duplicates at cost. There are millions of 1880S, 1881S, 18830-85O $1's that can be found in gem (MS-65 or better) and at low prices... A cheap book is the redbook on Morgan/Peace Dollars BY Q. David Bowers available at ANRcoins.com.
That's a pretty cool idea- I love the early san francisco issues for their flash and quality, and have happily ended up with some duplicates because I love their eye appeal....
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
<< <i>better yet, buy some certified by NTC, PCI, ICG, ANACS and NGC.
Say what? Buying anacs morgans and ngc morgans is like buying ntc morgans? >>
Perhaps the sarcasm was a bit too subtle?
"Everything is on its way to somewhere. Everything." - George Malley, Phenomenon
http://www.americanlegacycoins.com
<< <i>Perhaps the sarcasm was a bit too subtle?
>>
This is a new collector asking for help. Perhaps there shouldn't be any sarcasm at this time. It could be a bit confusing.
That all said, my specific suggestions are to identify pivotal grades. This is often, for so many dates, MS64 -- especially for prooflikes. The pivotal grade is the one that realizes a huge relative gain on a one point upgrade. The if you know about a date and what is extraordinary for it, you can find perhaps not the upgrade candidate but the PQ coin for the grade. 90% of the material on a show bourse for sale is average or less for the tagged grade. That is a simple reality. The discriminating buyer will look for that elusive 10% and then try to get the better side of the deal on it.
I am partial to prooflikes, particularly DMPLs, which I believe are still relatively undervalued to their satin peers. PL or normal MS, I'd stay away from the cmmon stuff that you can buy anywhere at anytime: 80-S, 81-S, 82-CC , 83-CC, 84-CC, 85, 86, 87, ... If you realy want to have fun without learning about 102 dates all at once, maybe just learn about clashed dies. They are fascinating and getting very hot very fast. It is still early enough to get in and cherrypick rarities. Some clashes are undoubtedly out there yet to be discovered. Mark Kimpton's book is a good start bt I don't think it is generally available easily right now from what I have heard. The VAM Update at ashmore.com relates a lot of them, many not in Mark's book but still desirable. It may be overly technical to start with though. I would avoid those beautiful toned dollars. I like them and a lot of others do too, but I believe their valuations are due to correct significantly very soon.
Good luck and have fun!
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