tale from the crypt: mr coin takes a round trip thru NCS/NGC
pontiacinf
Posts: 8,915 ✭✭
Ever since NCS started doing business, I wanted to see first hand what
they were capable of doing in the conservation arena. Now I know they have
before and after photos of lots of coins, but after looking thru them, I wasn't impressed
and I felt I was missing something. And the quest began.
This is a 1956 proof franklin in need of help, untouched, just a simple scan:
Its been in a box for years, not sure how it got there. The coin made me want to try
haze removal, even though a year back I killed a similar 1960 dcam proof by using
ms70 in conjunction with a qtip...qtip put a few hairlines on it, really turned it to bullion
without much effort.
so I decided ok, just a dip in ms70, no qtip just dip, rinse and then denatured alchohol:
I still am not happy at this point, so I decided to post pictures, and show my half hearted
attempt, besides the fun had run out. I was bored and ready to turn it into something useful,
such as maybe drill a hole in it and make it an xmas orn, or whizz it with a dremel
at this point keets (al), made me aware there was a better way to approach this, and offerd
to send it out to NCS/NGC for me. And then the light went off... so off the coin went.
Below is some scans (ugh) and a few picture attempts representing the gem returned to me.
please note my imaging skills lack bigtime***
scan of obv
scan of rev
scanner is located in a property preservation business I run for a friend, and
sees a heavy work load, glass is dirty and scratched, so I tryed the kodak
easy share and ended up with these pics:
obv
rev
coin looks alot better in hand than it does pictured here, but it is representitive
of what was received. I am very happy with the results, as I did see first hand what
was on the coin, and what was removed. It also made me think back to the few
before and after photos on the NCS web page. Some heavily toned coins looked
pitted/damaged after conservation, then it dawned on me. The crust was hiding serious
other problems, which in essence, cannot be corrected.
I learned so much just from playing with a junk box piece.
special thanks to keets (al) for all his help in this matter
they were capable of doing in the conservation arena. Now I know they have
before and after photos of lots of coins, but after looking thru them, I wasn't impressed
and I felt I was missing something. And the quest began.
This is a 1956 proof franklin in need of help, untouched, just a simple scan:
Its been in a box for years, not sure how it got there. The coin made me want to try
haze removal, even though a year back I killed a similar 1960 dcam proof by using
ms70 in conjunction with a qtip...qtip put a few hairlines on it, really turned it to bullion
without much effort.
so I decided ok, just a dip in ms70, no qtip just dip, rinse and then denatured alchohol:
I still am not happy at this point, so I decided to post pictures, and show my half hearted
attempt, besides the fun had run out. I was bored and ready to turn it into something useful,
such as maybe drill a hole in it and make it an xmas orn, or whizz it with a dremel
at this point keets (al), made me aware there was a better way to approach this, and offerd
to send it out to NCS/NGC for me. And then the light went off... so off the coin went.
Below is some scans (ugh) and a few picture attempts representing the gem returned to me.
please note my imaging skills lack bigtime***
scan of obv
scan of rev
scanner is located in a property preservation business I run for a friend, and
sees a heavy work load, glass is dirty and scratched, so I tryed the kodak
easy share and ended up with these pics:
obv
rev
coin looks alot better in hand than it does pictured here, but it is representitive
of what was received. I am very happy with the results, as I did see first hand what
was on the coin, and what was removed. It also made me think back to the few
before and after photos on the NCS web page. Some heavily toned coins looked
pitted/damaged after conservation, then it dawned on me. The crust was hiding serious
other problems, which in essence, cannot be corrected.
I learned so much just from playing with a junk box piece.
special thanks to keets (al) for all his help in this matter
Go BIG or GO HOME. ©Bill
0
Comments
to find lucys pics somewill will post them. but I will go find, hang on.
lucy has pics in this link to previous thread:
lucy explains type 1-2
Go BIG or GO HOME. ©Bill
I sent in a run of borderline proof cameo 1962 Franklins that had milk spots as a test batch about 2 years ago. I just sent them for conservation - not grading. But NCS erred and sent them to NGC for grading - long story short, I got the grading for free.
The results were far better than expected. I ended up with 2 PR65 cameos and the other three were brilliant 65's and 66's. One thing that happened is that the coin with the worst milk spot ended up with washed out mirrors, presumably due to aggressive conservation. The others were done so well, you would be hard pressed to find any remnants of spotting. And they have remained stable in the holders since I got them back.
I've also sent in a few proof copper coins for testing - they did a great job in cleaning up some hazy toning. One thing they cannot touch is carbon spots, but overall they still did nice work.
“In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock." - Thomas Jefferson
My digital cameo album 1950-64 Cameos - take a look!
<< <i>The others were done so well, you would be hard pressed to find any remnants of spotting. And they have remained stable in the holders since I got them back. >>
I wonderd about that also, but seeing as it just got back, stability will be reported later
Go BIG or GO HOME. ©Bill
<< <i>how long did it take and how much did it cost? >>
feb 8th I mailed to al, march 8th I had the grade and recieved the coin back
in hand march 17th, so if the middleman were taken out...less than 30 days.
Go BIG or GO HOME. ©Bill
<< <i>So type 1 has a less well struck/defined eagle? Or did I miss it? Not being facitious. Is that the difference? The type 2 looks better to me but I understand it's a matter of how many there are of each. >>
type one has 4 feathers to left of perch, were type 2 has 3 well defined feathers to left
of the perch...lucy also told me that type one eagle is known to be softly struck - though
mine is very well struck, hes very prominent
Go BIG or GO HOME. ©Bill
That type one CAM is a tough MOFO
im not allowed to hand out "YOU SUCK" s
but maybe smoebody that can will give ya one !
<< <i>Bill,
That type one CAM is a tough MOFO
im not allowed to hand out "YOU SUCK" s
but maybe smoebody that can will give ya one ! >>
ya know it doesnt even come close to alot of the pics you and a few
others post, but it deffinately has me fixated on a 50's pf set buying spree,
which has not begun yet
as for the "YOU SUCK' club, if nominated ill gladly accept, as this oppertunity
will not present itself for another 1000 years
Go BIG or GO HOME. ©Bill
<< <i>Just curious--know nothing about Frankies--what is a Type 1??? >>
<< <i>But NCS erred and sent them to NGC for grading - long story short, I got the grading for free. >>
Same thing happened to me on one of my submissions and, strangely, one of the coins was a Type 1 1956!
Russ, NCNE
was a major let down, as the coin truly was a wonder
Go BIG or GO HOME. ©Bill
<< <i>Never noticed til I viewed those large pix of eagle. He looks like a flasher.
Go BIG or GO HOME. ©Bill
Go BIG or GO HOME. ©Bill
Go BIG or GO HOME. ©Bill