"I don't know anything about early coppers, but I want to get a nice one"-- which dealer w
Longacre
Posts: 16,717 ✭✭✭
I know, I know.... if I say the statement above out loud at Baltimore, I will be descended upon like fresh road kill by a buzzard. However, there HAS to be at least one dealer who I can make this statement to, and not have to worry about getting fleeced. Everyone has to start somewhere, so do I run a risk by making this statement to a dealer, or should I go at it alone, and try to make my own decision (of course, trying to act like a knowledgeable collector by spouting out the requisite mintage figures, condition census numbers, and how I played stick ball with Dave Hall as a kid growing up...). Which dealer can I say this to?
Always took candy from strangers
Didn't wanna get me no trade
Never want to be like papa
Working for the boss every night and day
--"Happy", by the Rolling Stones (1972)
Didn't wanna get me no trade
Never want to be like papa
Working for the boss every night and day
--"Happy", by the Rolling Stones (1972)
0
Comments
Edit: Or get a good recomendation from a friend of a dealer that they have a good personal relationship with. Tell this dealer that this person recommended you. Good references work wonders in this industry.
<< <i>Tom Reynolds >>
(did it for my Dansco 7070 type set)
<< <i>There ya have it. Go to Tom Reynolds and tell him RYK and Barndog sent you >>
and duck real quick like.
edited to add:
Just look at all the copper auctioned off by Heritage and Superior (most of it sucks even and maybe especially the 'high end' stuff) and then look at what all the above mentioned people have and you will easily see what lousy copper looks like and what great copper looks like. Most of what is out there is awful. It's worth paying a little more to a dealer who can provide you with great copper and not a dealer who will double charge you for substandard crap. IMHO.
<< <i>Tom Reynolds >>
I agree. That's where a couple in my type set came from.
A better way to approach is say:
I'm looking for a nice _____ for a type set. Better to not put a "kick me" sign on your back.
It's like going to the Godiva Chocolate shop.
Hoot
http://www.uscents.com/coppergrade/index.html
Tbig
PS Chris Web site:
http://www.uscents.com/CVM/index.html
<< <i>Tom Reynolds >>
Excellent recommendation. He is straightforward, copper knowledgeable, and personally discriminating in what he buys and sells.
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<< <i>Doug Bird. Super honest and straight-forward. Knows coppers exceedingly well. Chris Victor-McCawley is another outstanding dealer in this arena.
Hoot >>
Doug Bird is as honest as they come. Great guy.
Specializing in 1854 and 1855 large FE patterns
<
Russ, NCNE
Here's an example to support my point. At the Baltimore show 2 years ago, I bought a 1796 Draped Bust cent out of one well-known dealer's stock box. He said he had been looking for the coin earlier that day so that he could mark up the price, so no discount on it. I paid $675 for it grudgingly because I couldn't find one anywhere else. I upgraded it last spring, however, and was only able to recover $310 for the coin when I sold it. That's more than half of my money, never to be seen again. I hope that gives you an idea of the kind of markups involved in early copper.
<< <i>If I were going to buy any classic coin that I knew nothing about, I would contact Mark Feld.
Russ, NCNE >>
Bingo! That's how I got my MS63BN 1955/55 with toning. Mark did me swell on that one
I've been told I tolerate fools poorly...that may explain things if I have a problem with you. Current ebay items - Nothing at the moment
<< <i>I'll make a different recommendation. Go to the auctions in person and bid on a coin that you picked out yourself during the lot viewings. >>
Generally good advice but it doesn't hurt to get started in something like copper with a good, specialized dealer, just to get a good footing and learn the pitfalls. Remember, auctions are also a dumping ground for items sitting too long in some dealers' inventories, to get back in the money.
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