What is this gunk and how do I get rid of it?

coinpictures

I've asked this in passing a while back, but never got an answer.

What is the white "gunk" on the proof below, and will an acetone bath get rid of it? Any recommendations?

It's on the obverse in the denticles, and much more noticable on the reverse.

Thanks!

ajaan

I don't know what it is, but I think an acetone may be in order.

coinrookie

If it is just haze, then acetone should do the trick.

Steve

coinpictures

No, it's not haze; it's hardened/calcified somethingorother. I've seen it on some other unc coins as well, but have never tried to remove it. Obviously anything abrasive is right out.

1jester

It looks similar to verdigris, but I've never seen that on silver. Apparantly someone already tried to scrape it off on the reverse. Acetone will do no damage, so give it a try, and if that doesn't work, try xylene. Failing that, send it to NCS. Good luck.

Russ

Contaminants that are hardened and opaque in nature are generally not something that should be tackled by an amateur. If the coin has value, you might consider NCS. I have a hunch, though, that even they may not be able to improve it much.

Russ, NCNE

koincollect

My first post on these forums. I had a similar issue with a couple of proofs. I tried acetone on the same and it did take off a little of the haze but not all of it. Someone suggested a light dip would do the trick as the coin was proof, but I did not want to do it and sent it off to NCS. They did a nice job on the coin and got everything removed. You also seem to have a blob on the coin... acetone would not remove it and you would need either to dip the coin or send it for professional conservation depending on the cost of the coin. (I have heard that NCS have increased their minimum costs now). Good luck!

Clankeye

Russ has much experience in these matters, and I give weight to his opinion. Even if he isn't an official, dyed-in-the-wool Darksider.

Edited to add: And I am not diminishing other people's replies to this thread. I will confess I asked Russ his opinion because I was interested what he would say.


Clankeye

laurentyvan

I can have no opinion on the coin you present, other than it looks like that spot has been attacked in the past, but...

I really enjoyed perusing your website-nicely done coinpictures!

1jester

Is this a silver or a platinum coin?


Welcome, koincollect! Nice avatar!

coinpictures

<< <i>Is this a silver or a platinum coin? >>



I believe it is silver (I never even entertained the thought that it might be platinum).

I purchased it as a business strike, but it has all the appearances of a proof (frosted devices, mirror fields). I think I paid $75 for it when I got it about 3 years ago. A fair amount for a problem coin, but I just loved the obverse and these don't come around here often at all...

Looking at NCS's prices, they seem quite reasonable. For this coin it would be $5 evaluation + $15 conservation = $20 total (plus S&H). Quite reasonable if it actually accomplishes anything.

Of course there's the additional cost of joining either the NGC Collector's Society or the ANA...

1jester

Definitely go NCS with this one.

I'm not familiar with Russian coins, nor do I have a Krause-nomicon handy, so I don't know what the coin is, but it sure looks like a proof to me, and Russia did produce platinum coins early in the 19th century.

spoon

If it is a proof, is there any possibility that it is die polish? (seems unlikely on this one) or maybe remnants of an old laquer job? or maybe an abrasive that a previous owner tried using to remove the greenish spot?

gxseries

<< <i>

<< <i>Is this a silver or a platinum coin? >>



I believe it is silver (I never even entertained the thought that it might be platinum).

I purchased it as a business strike, but it has all the appearances of a proof (frosted devices, mirror fields). I think I paid $75 for it when I got it about 3 years ago. A fair amount for a problem coin, but I just loved the obverse and these don't come around here often at all...

Looking at NCS's prices, they seem quite reasonable. For this coin it would be $5 evaluation + $15 conservation = $20 total (plus S&H). Quite reasonable if it actually accomplishes anything.

Of course there's the additional cost of joining either the NGC Collector's Society or the ANA... >>



That is definately a silver coin, not a platinum one. Platinum rubles only come in denomination of 3, 6, 12 rubles, although there were some bizarre test strike of 25k and 50k in platinum planchets (if I am not wrong), but those are excessively RARE.

coinpictures - your coin is definately an excellent proof coin!!! I am blinded by it!!! Fantastic!!! Such coin would command over 500+ these few days (if I am not mistaken!)- they are so rare that they wouldn't even appear on scambay these few months, if not years! Forget scambay, these are not too common in recent major auction catalogues either!!!

Yes, NCS would be the best way and probably the cheapest way to deal with the coin - I mean, if you tried to do something with the coin and if it goes wrong, that is most certainly not wise.

What an excellent coin - thanks for the pictures! (oh noes, another Russian coin collector? )

coinpictures

<< <i>coinpictures - your coin is definately an excellent proof coin!!! I am blinded by it!!! Fantastic!!! Such coin would command over 500+ these few days (if I am not mistaken!)- they are so rare that they wouldn't even appear on scambay these few months, if not years! Forget scambay, these are not too common in recent major auction catalogues either!!! >>



Well, I wouldn't imagine it going that high given its problems. Still nice to have... heck even a garden-variety business strike is nice to have.



<< <i>Yes, NCS would be the best way and probably the cheapest way to deal with the coin - I mean, if you tried to do something with the coin and if it goes wrong, that is most certainly not wise. >>



Yes, this is the route I will take. I have an inquiry in to the folks at the Collector's Society. Their annual $99 membership fee includes 5 certificates for free "Earlybird" tier gradings, but since that tier only exists for U.S. coins, does that mean I'm SOL and don't get to use them? If I don't get the free gradings, it's not worth the annual fee (even with them, it's a bit much IMO). I'd be better off joining the ANA (or finding a kind soul to submit the coin for me ).



<< <i>(oh noes, another Russian coin collector? ) >>



Nahh... no competition here. It just happens to be one of the neater worldwide pieces I've picked up over the years...

koincollect

<< <i> I have an inquiry in to the folks at the Collector's Society. Their annual $99 membership fee includes 5 certificates for free "Earlybird" tier gradings, but since that tier only exists for U.S. coins, does that mean I'm SOL and don't get to use them? If I don't get the free gradings, it's not worth the annual fee (even with them, it's a bit much IMO). I'd be better off joining the ANA (or finding a kind soul to submit the coin for me ).

>>



I had the same inquiry with the Collector's Society when I joined and asked them whether they can substitute world coins for the US certificate, and they were ready to do that! I guess you get a choice of either 5 US coins or 5 world plus free review of coins for every 5 submitted to NCS for conservation and you also get the latest state quarters mint set in a multi-holder MS65. The customer service folks would be able to tell you about the latest promotions going on.

lordmarcovan

Definitely something I would send to NCS and would be very afraid to mess with myself.


Must be something hallucinogenic in my iced tea- I could've sworn I just saw Russ post on the Darkside.

Nah. Couldn't be.

1960NYGiants

<< <i>I've asked this in passing a while back, but never got an answer.

What is the white "gunk" on the proof below, and will an acetone bath get rid of it? Any recommendations?

It's on the obverse in the denticles, and much more noticable on the reverse.

Thanks!

>>



I see some hairlines. Could the white stuff be dried polish? Or oxidized PVC? If an acetone bath doesn't remove it, you could try a product called MS70. Apply with a soft cotton swab, let sit for 10 seconds, and rinse in water.

Gene