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How do you determine how much of a premium to spend on a coin that is choice for the assigned grade?

If a 65 sells for around $1000, and 66's usually go for around $2000, would you be willing to spend $1500 for a nice 65?

Is there a rule of thumb that guides you in deciding how much of a premium to pay for a coin that is high-end, and therefore more desirable that most?

Dan

Comments

  • roadrunnerroadrunner Posts: 28,313 ✭✭✭✭✭
    There is no standard rule as there are so many variables. For a 50% premium the coin would have to be underrated on the price guides, a shot to regrade at the next grade, very eye appealing for the grade, or other such attributes.

    For a nothing special coin with nice eye appeal and very solid surfaces for the grade a 20-40% premium to bid is not unusual.
    Problem is, you have to be able to grade to tenths of a point to figure out a price (ie. 65.0, 65.2, 65.4, 65.6, 65.8.....misgrade or very low end, very average, solid, above average or PQ, reasonable shot upgrade potential)

    roadrunner
    Barbarous Relic No More, LSCC -GoldSeek--shadow stats--SafeHaven--321gold
  • dizzyfoxxdizzyfoxx Posts: 9,823 ✭✭✭
    For many coins that have that one-of-a-kind toning and luster, I can see 65's, 66's and 67's selling for numbers that causes book values to have no relative bearing on a coin's realistic value. I think this has been exemplified over and over and over again with auction realized prices as well as dealer-collector transactions. Now this is only pertaining to the coins that simply make you go...image
    image...There's always time for coin collecting. image
  • ldhairldhair Posts: 7,295 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Every coin is different.
    It's what I am willing to pay to own it.
    Larry

  • 291fifth291fifth Posts: 24,548 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Offer your local dealer a truly choice-for-the-grade coin and see how much of a premium he is willing to pay. Use that as your guide. (I suspect in most markets the answer is going to be zero.)

    Edited for spelling.
    All glory is fleeting.
  • LanLordLanLord Posts: 11,722 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'm sorry! It's nothing like that for me.

    I like really old crap, so there is not so much 65 - 66, it's mostly 15 - 30 and an occasional 40 - 45.

    So how do I determine price? I reach in my pocket, I look at a wad of cash, I compare it to a coin.

    One or the other wins!
  • First the disclaimer: virtually every seller can say his/her coin is exceptional for the grade, and only a small percentage actually are. For beginners reading along, it is near impossible for beginners to determine a premium coin from seller's BS.

    As with most prices, best to check what real coins are trading for on Ebay, Teletrade, Heritage. For commonly traded coins, these sites will often have a relative wide range of prices realized for given coins in a given grade. Let that be your guide.

    Other indicators to look at are what are premium level dealers advertising the coin for in Coin World ads, and compare that to grey sheet prices. That shows how much premium the dealers want to get when selling.

    For thinly traded issues, pricing is much more difficult. In today's market, the sky is often the limit for a nice coin that is rarely offered.
  • The longer I look the more I'm willing to spend! If I want a nice coin at a grade where many nicer coins exist in higher grades I'm not willing to pay as much of a premium as I am if I haven't seen any nicer coins for sale at any price!
  • I think this is an important issue. In moderns, such as a group of 47-d Lincolns I recieved back. One in ms66 sells for around $20 to $40. In ms67 the low is $400
    and the High is $1,000. In this case a low end ms67 one that just slips into the grade (if even) has questionable value. With consideration that 700 coins have been graded ms66 and the nicest 5% may look as good or better. Yet when only 54 have been holdered in ms67 A coin that is highend for the grade. Should bring
    a strong price. IMO

    chris
  • PerryHallPerryHall Posts: 46,619 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Offer your local dealer a truly choice-for-the-grade coin and see how much of a premium he is willing to pay. Use that as your guide. (I suspect in most markets the answer is going to be zero.)

    Edited for spelling. >>

    image

    Most dealers will look at the label, get out the grey sheet and then offer you 10% back of bid. A PQ coin frequently needs to go the auction route to get PQ money.

    Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
    "Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
    "Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire

  • I have sold a large number of Lincoln's in the last few years. As these come in and out of inventory, I look them over closely. The very nicest for the grade
    I set aside for myself. Sometimes this is not the poptops, as I need to make a living. Right now my box of set aside Lincolns number about 150 When low on coins to sell I dip in looking for the least of them to sell. And as more come in the number once again increases. The quality of these coins are constently being
    increased by this method. If compared to a set randomly built, the difference would be clear. As would the price offered from the right buyer. I would not expect
    that buyer to reside at my local coin shop.
  • TwoSides2aCoinTwoSides2aCoin Posts: 44,477 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Rule of thumb : Check coin, Check wallet image then buy image
  • cladkingcladking Posts: 28,702 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Offer your local dealer a truly choice-for-the-grade coin and see how much of a premium he is willing to pay. Use that as your guide. (I suspect in most markets the answer is going to be zero.)
    >>



    While I'd agree with many of the comments in this thread, this is the attitude
    a collector normally needs to have. You're better off picking and choosing among
    the coins that the seller is willing to "give away", picking those which are under-
    graded, or those you like the most than playing the market for "premium quality"
    for the grade. There is a tendency to just pay a premium you'll never get back ot-
    herwise.
    Tempus fugit.


  • << <i>Rule of thumb : Check coin, Check wallet image then buy image >>



    image

    I guess it also comes donw basically to: How much do you want the coin? What can you spend without questioning yourself over and over about?

    I recently made a darkside purchse that is much more than I care to spend. However, the coin is a solid example for it's grade and is genuinely scarce. I've seen none finer in recent memory. So, I paid top end retail plus a bit more to acquire it. Life is short, and I think that's why God made overtime!image

    Edited to add: If your looking to make a buck ignore all I've just said. I'm not in it for the money any more, just the love of the pursuit and the rewards of a quality collection.
    Everything I write is my opinion.

    Looking for alot of crap.
  • TwoSides2aCoinTwoSides2aCoin Posts: 44,477 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Robert, I agree with your last comment the most. If one is in it strictly for profit, one misses the view along the way. I like turning a profit, but for a prime coin...........I will buy it high and hold that sucker til it becomes someone else's inheritance image.
  • JZraritiesJZrarities Posts: 2,583 ✭✭✭
    Maybe not PQ,, but if a coin has Nice Original Color then I will usually pay the next grade up to get it...
  • It's very simple. How much do I want it?
  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 34,612 ✭✭✭✭✭
    There are no standard rules for this, and a good part of it is a judgement call.

    But if an MS-65 sells for $1,000 and an MS-66 sells for $2,000, paying $1,500 for a choice, PQ MS-65 would almost certainly be too much IMO. I would think that $1,100 to !.200 would be more in order.

    Of course if you think that the MS-65 in question is a slam dunk for a crack-out and upgrade, $1,500 might be reasonable.
    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?

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