The mint gets their cent planchets from an outside supplier. The blanks are punchd from zinc stock strip amd then copper plated. The copper plated blanks are then run through an upsetting mill to create planchets. If a zinc blank misses the plating step but get mixed in with the plated blanks it will most likely not be caught until after the struck cents are distributed. And how could it skip the plating? Well if it somehow gets stuck in the hopper used to transport the zinc blanks to the plating unit, and then the plated blanks are put back into the same hopper it can get dislodged and mixed in.
I have about 6 or 8 of those covering 3 of the 4 different zinc 1982 varieties. I'm hoping someday somebody will offer me a lot for them, but I really have no idea.
<< <i>The mint gets their cent planchets from an outside supplier. The blanks are punchd from zinc stock strip amd then copper plated. The copper plated blanks are then run through an upsetting mill to create planchets. If a zinc blank misses the plating step but get mixed in with the plated blanks it will most likely not be caught until after the struck cents are distributed. And how could it skip the plating? Well if it somehow gets stuck in the hopper used to transport the zinc blanks to the plating unit, and then the plated blanks are put back into the same hopper it can get dislodged and mixed in. >>
The planchets are upset BEFORE they are plated. These errors are so easily and convincingly faked that I would be cautious about even buying slabbed ones. Dull gray ones like the one in this auction should be scrutinized especially closely. While zinc does oxidize, it takes a little time. You'd expect most unplated cents to be yanked out of circulation before significant oxidation has occurred. The only legitimate ones I have in my collection show little or no sign of oxidation. All of the dull gray ones I have in my collection and that I thought were real turned out to be fakes.
Mike Diamond is an error coin writer and researcher. Views expressed here do not necessarily reflect those held by any organization I am a member of.
By the way, in my opinion, that coin is NOT a genuine "Unplated Zinc Planchet".
It is too dark and dull, and I'll bet it has some "dust" on the surfaces, from chemical removal.
A genuine unplated zinc-struck cent should look similar to an original BU 1943 Steel Cent - the zinc coins will be a bit more "nickel-silver color", but they will NOT be DARK, DULL, OR GREY..........
These chemical pieces fooled me for a year or two in 1983/84, till I got a handle on them, and also saw some unquestionable genuine coins. They still fool many many many collectors and dealers alike, and are one of the most often-"authenticated" non-mint errors around.......
Fred
Retired Collector & Dealer in Major Mint Error Coins & Currency since the 1960's.Co-Author of Whitman's "100 Greatest U.S. Mint Error Coins", and the Error Coin Encyclopedia, Vols., III & IV. Retired Authenticator for Major Mint Errors for PCGS. A 49+-Year PNG Member...A full numismatist since 1972, retired in 2022
<< <i>By the way, in my opinion, that coin is NOT a genuine "Unplated Zinc Planchet".
It is too dark and dull, and I'll bet it has some "dust" on the surfaces, from chemical removal.
A genuine unplated zinc-struck cent should look similar to an original BU 1943 Steel Cent - the zinc coins will be a bit more "nickel-silver color", but they will NOT be DARK, DULL, OR GREY..........
These chemical pieces fooled me for a year or two in 1983/84, till I got a handle on them, and also saw some unquestionable genuine coins. They still fool many many many collectors and dealers alike, and are one of the most often-"authenticated" non-mint errors around.......
Fred >>
Thanks for sharing your wisdom, Fred. You have reinforced my skepticism regarding this and similar specimens.
So, be wary of "unplated" cents that:
1. Show a dull or dark gray finish. 2. Show widely scattered specks of copper. 3. Weigh the same as, or are slightly heavier than, a normal cent. 4. Show microcopic bumps on the surface. 5. Show slightly mushy design elements.
I always apply the same scrutiny to slabbed coins as I do raw. Of course, you need to be fore-armed with the requisite knowledge.
-- Mike Diamond
Mike Diamond is an error coin writer and researcher. Views expressed here do not necessarily reflect those held by any organization I am a member of.
<< <i>By the way, in my opinion, that coin is NOT a genuine "Unplated Zinc Planchet".
It is too dark and dull, and I'll bet it has some "dust" on the surfaces, from chemical removal.
A genuine unplated zinc-struck cent should look similar to an original BU 1943 Steel Cent - the zinc coins will be a bit more "nickel-silver color", but they will NOT be DARK, DULL, OR GREY..........
These chemical pieces fooled me for a year or two in 1983/84, till I got a handle on them, and also saw some unquestionable genuine coins. They still fool many many many collectors and dealers alike, and are one of the most often-"authenticated" non-mint errors around.......
Fred >>
I can’t fully concur with that. Zinc is a reactive metal that oxidizes very quickly, especially when it is exposed to normal circulation. Circulated Steel (zinc coated) cents tuned grey very quickly while they were in use. Even the pieces that have stored improperly by collectors often go bad. This one could have been in circulation for while, which could have accelerated the oxidation process.
My main concern with this is that it could continue to oxidize and turn to dust. When I was shopping for a 1983 doubled die cent years ago I saw some pieces that had holes in the copper coating. Many cents of this era were poorly coated. The air was rushing into those, and the coin seemed to be dissolving. In a few year I could see such coins in a lot worse shape than they are today. For those who collect very old tokens and medals the term “tin pest” comes to mind …
Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
<< <i> I can’t fully concur with that. Zinc is a reactive metal that oxidizes very quickly, especially when it is exposed to normal circulation. Circulated Steel (zinc coated) cents tuned grey very quickly while they were in use. Even the pieces that have stored improperly by collectors often go bad. This one could have been in circulation for while, which could have accelerated the oxidation process. >>
Let me provide a comparative perspective. There are many striking errors in which the copper plating splits, exposing the underlying zinc. Die caps, off-center strikes, major broadstrikes, brockages, indents, etc. In most of these coins the zinc retains its original luster or something close to it. Rarely do you see complete oxidation of the exposed zinc.
An unplated cent should behave similarly.
Mike Diamond is an error coin writer and researcher. Views expressed here do not necessarily reflect those held by any organization I am a member of.
Let me provide a comparative perspective. There are many striking errors in which the copper plating splits, exposing the underlying zinc. Die caps, off-center strikes, major broadstrikes, brockages, indents, etc. In most of these coins the zinc retains its original luster or something close to it. Rarely do you see complete oxidation of the exposed zinc.
An unplated cent should behave similarly,
Another comparative line of evidence is provided by cases of incomplete plating. The exposed zinc in such cents shows little or no oxidation. A fully unplated cent should follow the same pattern.
Mike Diamond is an error coin writer and researcher. Views expressed here do not necessarily reflect those held by any organization I am a member of.
Yeap, very interesting. I learn something on almost every post. btw, r all of these type coin usually off center? Thx >>
Which types? The striking errors? It depends on the error. You can have a partial brockage or an indent on a coin that is struck in-collar, out-of-collar (broadstruck), or off-center.
Mike Diamond is an error coin writer and researcher. Views expressed here do not necessarily reflect those held by any organization I am a member of.
Comments
Dan
mcinnes@mailclerk.ecok.edu">dmcinnes@mailclerk.ecok.edu
We'll see what the one in the auction sells for...
Dan
mcinnes@mailclerk.ecok.edu">dmcinnes@mailclerk.ecok.edu
<< <i>The mint gets their cent planchets from an outside supplier. The blanks are punchd from zinc stock strip amd then copper plated. The copper plated blanks are then run through an upsetting mill to create planchets. If a zinc blank misses the plating step but get mixed in with the plated blanks it will most likely not be caught until after the struck cents are distributed. And how could it skip the plating? Well if it somehow gets stuck in the hopper used to transport the zinc blanks to the plating unit, and then the plated blanks are put back into the same hopper it can get dislodged and mixed in. >>
The planchets are upset BEFORE they are plated. These errors are so easily and convincingly faked that I would be cautious about even buying slabbed ones. Dull gray ones like the one in this auction should be scrutinized especially closely. While zinc does oxidize, it takes a little time. You'd expect most unplated cents to be yanked out of circulation before significant oxidation has occurred. The only legitimate ones I have in my collection show little or no sign of oxidation. All of the dull gray ones I have in my collection and that I thought were real turned out to be fakes.
genuine "Unplated Zinc Planchet".
It is too dark and dull, and I'll bet it has some
"dust" on the surfaces, from chemical removal.
A genuine unplated zinc-struck cent should look
similar to an original BU 1943 Steel Cent - the
zinc coins will be a bit more "nickel-silver color",
but they will NOT be DARK, DULL, OR GREY..........
These chemical pieces fooled me for a year or two
in 1983/84, till I got a handle on them, and also
saw some unquestionable genuine coins. They
still fool many many many collectors and dealers
alike, and are one of the most often-"authenticated"
non-mint errors around.......
Fred
for PCGS. A 49+-Year PNG Member...A full numismatist since 1972, retired in 2022
ANACS MS-64
mcinnes@mailclerk.ecok.edu">dmcinnes@mailclerk.ecok.edu
<< <i>By the way, in my opinion, that coin is NOT a
genuine "Unplated Zinc Planchet".
It is too dark and dull, and I'll bet it has some
"dust" on the surfaces, from chemical removal.
A genuine unplated zinc-struck cent should look
similar to an original BU 1943 Steel Cent - the
zinc coins will be a bit more "nickel-silver color",
but they will NOT be DARK, DULL, OR GREY..........
These chemical pieces fooled me for a year or two
in 1983/84, till I got a handle on them, and also
saw some unquestionable genuine coins. They
still fool many many many collectors and dealers
alike, and are one of the most often-"authenticated"
non-mint errors around.......
Fred >>
Thanks for sharing your wisdom, Fred. You have reinforced my skepticism regarding this and similar specimens.
So, be wary of "unplated" cents that:
1. Show a dull or dark gray finish.
2. Show widely scattered specks of copper.
3. Weigh the same as, or are slightly heavier than, a normal cent.
4. Show microcopic bumps on the surface.
5. Show slightly mushy design elements.
I always apply the same scrutiny to slabbed coins as I do raw. Of course, you need to be fore-armed with the requisite knowledge.
-- Mike Diamond
<< <i>By the way, in my opinion, that coin is NOT a
genuine "Unplated Zinc Planchet".
It is too dark and dull, and I'll bet it has some
"dust" on the surfaces, from chemical removal.
A genuine unplated zinc-struck cent should look
similar to an original BU 1943 Steel Cent - the
zinc coins will be a bit more "nickel-silver color",
but they will NOT be DARK, DULL, OR GREY..........
These chemical pieces fooled me for a year or two
in 1983/84, till I got a handle on them, and also
saw some unquestionable genuine coins. They
still fool many many many collectors and dealers
alike, and are one of the most often-"authenticated"
non-mint errors around.......
Fred >>
I can’t fully concur with that. Zinc is a reactive metal that oxidizes very quickly, especially when it is exposed to normal circulation. Circulated Steel (zinc coated) cents tuned grey very quickly while they were in use. Even the pieces that have stored improperly by collectors often go bad. This one could have been in circulation for while, which could have accelerated the oxidation process.
My main concern with this is that it could continue to oxidize and turn to dust. When I was shopping for a 1983 doubled die cent years ago I saw some pieces that had holes in the copper coating. Many cents of this era were poorly coated. The air was rushing into those, and the coin seemed to be dissolving. In a few year I could see such coins in a lot worse shape than they are today. For those who collect very old tokens and medals the term “tin pest” comes to mind …
<< <i>
I can’t fully concur with that. Zinc is a reactive metal that oxidizes very quickly, especially when it is exposed to normal circulation. Circulated Steel (zinc coated) cents tuned grey very quickly while they were in use. Even the pieces that have stored improperly by collectors often go bad. This one could have been in circulation for while, which could have accelerated the oxidation process. >>
Let me provide a comparative perspective. There are many striking errors in which the copper plating splits, exposing the underlying zinc. Die caps, off-center strikes, major broadstrikes, brockages, indents, etc. In most of these coins the zinc retains its original luster or something close to it. Rarely do you see complete oxidation of the exposed zinc.
An unplated cent should behave similarly.
<< <i>1995 cent ANACS MS-64
<< <i>
This cent looks pretty good, but you better inspect the surface for microscopic bumps.
Let me provide a comparative perspective. There are many striking errors in which the copper plating splits, exposing the underlying zinc. Die caps, off-center strikes, major broadstrikes, brockages, indents, etc. In most of these coins the zinc retains its original luster or something close to it. Rarely do you see complete oxidation of the exposed zinc.
An unplated cent should behave similarly,
Another comparative line of evidence is provided by cases of incomplete plating. The exposed zinc in such cents shows little or no oxidation. A fully unplated cent should follow the same pattern.
<< <i>This is good information. Thanks, all! >>
Yeap, very interesting. I learn something on almost every post.
btw, r all of these type coin usually off center?
Thx
Thank You
SilverDollar
<< <i>
<< <i>This is good information. Thanks, all! >>
Yeap, very interesting. I learn something on almost every post.
btw, r all of these type coin usually off center?
Thx >>
Which types? The striking errors? It depends on the error. You can have a partial brockage or an indent on a coin that is struck in-collar, out-of-collar (broadstruck), or off-center.