Proof Walker questions.
SanctionII
Posts: 12,102 ✭✭✭✭✭
Proof Walkers were minted for 1936-42, seven years total. A very short set, which I am considering diving into. Earlier this year I picked up a 1942, NGC, graded Proof 66. It has light haze on it that detracts from the mirrors. The devices are frosted on both sides. If the haze were removed it would look like a cameo. I am giving thought to submitting to NCS to have the haze removed. Any thoughts yea or ney?
Further, if the haze is removed and regrades PF66 CAM, what would be the difference between the value for PF66 (as it is now) and PF66 CAM?
Further, what are the pops for PCGS and NCG 1936-1942 Proof Walkers in grades of PF66 and above, including CAM and DCAM designations?
Thanks, SanctionII.
Further, if the haze is removed and regrades PF66 CAM, what would be the difference between the value for PF66 (as it is now) and PF66 CAM?
Further, what are the pops for PCGS and NCG 1936-1942 Proof Walkers in grades of PF66 and above, including CAM and DCAM designations?
Thanks, SanctionII.
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Comments
The difference in value would be substantial, since cameo Walkers are extremely rare, (as are cameos for any of the 1936-1942 proof coins).
Russ, NCN
for what it is worth, when I was searching for a Proof Walker I saw countless (dipped) white examples - I prefer the original haze and if the coin is already grading 66 IMHO it is not a candidate for "conservation" - so few examples have original (or close to it) surfaces that are attractive from what I have seen. I'd never dip such a coin.
Best,
Billy
Class A – Original with a haze that dulls the surfaces which looks unattractive.
Class B – Dipped with the telltale “fry marks” in the fields that scream, “I’ve been dipped!”
If they have not been hairlined, both Class A and Class B Proof Walkers usually end up in PR65 or 66 holders from either service.
FAR less often you find the coin that has been dipped which does not the marks or a true original white coin.
There are also a few attractively toned original coins around. The toning is not intense. It’s usually more subtle. These coins are usually graded PR-67 and the prices can range from $1,400 or so to almost $3,000.
A few weeks ago I found this piece, which is an NGC PR-67. The picture does not do it justice, but this was the best that I seen for the money in many a day. This coin is not as hazy as it looks in this picture.
This walker has some frosting on the devices and nicely mirrored fields. It has a touch of haze and some rim toning. I think it is really neat and deserves a premium to other PR 65s. It doesn't have enough frost to ever go cameo so I'm not worred this one will ever get dipped. I must get better photos of this one and will post them when I do.
If I dipped my coin, I'd get some contrast, but I'd get a lot of bad stuff to go with it.
It's best to leave these coins alone unless the toning is really damaging the surfaces.
<< <i>To get a cameo label on the holder, the coin has got to be CAMEO. Not just a little contrast, but BIG contrast.
If I dipped my coin, I'd get some contrast, but I'd get a lot of bad stuff to go with it.
It's best to leave these coins alone unless the toning is really damaging the surfaces. >>
I think that is what we are all saying here. Dipping will never increase whatever amount frost is present, and most certainly can alter the surfaces. The gain in the appearance of the contrast from a dip is usually offset by an even more visible hairlines or other surface flaws. Unless there is a problem such coins should be left with original surfaces - they are in the minority from what I have seen. I prefer even a neautral haze over a dipped coin.
Best,
Billy
IMO, not a candidate for conservation..
Liberty: Parent of Science & Industry
bruce scher