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My method - 1971 topps...thoughts?

Greetings everyone...

I have been working on my 1971 baseball set for several months now, and after a bit of wandering, I've come up with (what I think) is the best way for me to go.

Brian's 1971 Topps Set


What I have decided to do is focus on the cards that have a weight over 1 first, and common cards in groups of 150. I am currently working towards compiling the first 150, along with the weight above 1 cards.

With so many cards it felt like the best way to go...but the fast couple weeks, there have been very few commons in the first 150 for sale.

Just curious if this is normal, for card sales to be in cycles like this (I am sure it is, just get impatient when no cards to look for).

Thanks!

Comments

  • carew4mecarew4me Posts: 3,473 ✭✭✭✭
    Apply pressure on other registrants to unload. Has worked very well for me.

    Loves me some shiny!
  • Brian,

    You may want to edit your owner's comments:



    << <i>the #5, Thurman Thomas card...amazing card >>

    image



    But on a serious note, I think your strategy will cost you in the long run. I know it's a great feeling to add the stars to the set to watch yourself move up the registry more quickly but the stars are the ones that come up most often. By tracking the prices of the star cards, you should be able to minimize the amount you invest in the set by waiting until you can get a copy that meets your criteria at a decent price. Just keep in mind that not all 7s are created equal so don't just bid on a 7 because it is a 7. Make sure it's got the centering, etc. you desire.

    I also wouldn't limit myself to groups of 150 at a time, it's far too restrictive. One thing that can kill you on building a set card by card is the shipping costs. When a big dealer lists a lot of 71s at one time, it makes sense to bid on a lot of them, even if you overpay for a few, becuase what you save in shipping costs can far outweigh the little extra for a card.

    Good luck with your set, 71 is a beauty!
  • BkritzBkritz Posts: 1,093 ✭✭
    PM sent.

    I can help you with a 7 or two and a few 8s.

    Bkritz
  • I am now down to 13 cards (including 3 I have purchased but have not received) for my PSA 7+ set (My Set). It has taken me over 3 years to get this far, but it has been a fun journey! My plan, once I complete my set, is to upgrade my PSA 7s to PSA 8s or better only for the cards with weights over 1. I can't afford to compete with the big guys for the top spot on the registry, but my strategy will maximize my set rating while minimizing my upgrading expenses.

    Now for my suggestions:

    (1) If you want your set rating to build the fastest, you should focus on the cards with weights over 1.

    (2) Buy as many large lots as you can afford. If you watch Ebay, you can frequently pick up lots with hundreds of cards in them at reasonable prices ($5 to $6 per card for PSA 7s). This will save you on shipping costs and build your set the quickest.

    (3) Pick-up the low population cards when you see them (Regan, Wegener, Raymond, Carty, etc.). If you don't, it might be a year before you see the card again.

    (4) Trade with other registry members when possible. I have done this several times with "Augustaman" and it has really help me complete my set.

    You will find that card sales are cyclic in nature. Right now, the market for 1971 PSA 7s appears to be down for sellers so I think a lot of sellers are holding onto their PSA 7s. On the other hand, the market for 1971 PSA 8s and 9s seems to be really strong for sellers. As such, there are a lot of PSA 8s and 9s on the market right now.

    Good luck with your set,
    Mike

  • Brian -
    Like the others said, buying in bulk if you have the funds available
    is definately the way to go in terms of saving money in the long run
    run. I sold a nice NM 7 partial set not too long ago but have since
    started another one. If you're interested ("My Extra/Duplicate Set"
    on the Registry) just let me know and we can try to work something
    out.
    Don't worry Mike (fishinnut), I'll hold onto that one card for you and
    it's yours whenever you want it. image
    Bill
    wpkoughan@yahoo.com
    Collecting 1970-1979 PSA 9 & 10 Baseball Cards
  • AxtellAxtell Posts: 10,037 ✭✭
    Ack! I can't believe I put thurman thomas in there (been fixed).

    I agree the bulk buying is the way to go...and buying one's and two's isn't an affordable way to go.

    As far as qualified 7s, I agree. All of my 7s are without qualifiers, and am especially picky of the centering of my cards.

  • jaxxrjaxxr Posts: 1,258 ✭✭
    With the 71 set and all those from 73 and before, there is a high number series .

    This may be a good way to start, they are higher value per rates, than the other commons, and the stars might be a bit more weighted than if in a lower numerical range.

    It can also be considered a subset or group within itself so may be a nice way to determine if this is really a set you wish to continue with.

    As to being " Normal" per collecting patterns.... there can be no way normal or typical should be used to describe our methods in obtaining carboard pictures of athletes for whatever reason we use to justify them.

    image
    This aint no party,... this aint no disco,.. this aint no fooling around.
  • FBFB Posts: 1,684 ✭✭
    Having worked on this set in fits and spurts over the last couple of years - I think that the advice given by fishnut and augustaman are about as solid as you can get. They are probably among the most savy 71 buyers that I've run across. Listen to them and you can't go wrong!

    Personally... I look for large groups of PSA 8's put up by a single dealer starting at $9.99. Then - I put minimum snipe bids in of $10 - $12 on the ones that I need. Sometimes I win a lot - sometimes a little. But, I never pay too much and sometimes I'm able to snag a tougher card without even realizing it. And, as I see certain cards going for much higher money - I know better what I should bid for it if I really need it. PATIENCE is the key. If you're not patient - you'll wind up paying double what you should have to.

    Frank
    Frank Bakka
    Sets - 1970, 1971 and 1972
    Always looking for 1972 O-PEE-CHEE Baseball in PSA 9 or 10!

    lynnfrank@earthlink.net
    outerbankyank on eBay!
  • MeferMefer Posts: 1,162 ✭✭✭
    I have the current ranked 18th number set on the registry (Matt's 1971 Topps set) and am about 45% complete. It has taken me a good three years to get where I am at and probably more than three more to finish it.

    I would probably echo many things said above. As far as an attack plan, I would probably also recommend tackling the high numbers first if possible. They are tougher to find and more difficult to find in quality raw form. In any event, here is how I got where I am at.

    I started out focusing on the stars. When I got involved putting the set together, the registry was not yet in existence. I thus bought a lot of large raw common lots and bought mainly PSA 7 stars. Once the registry came up, I had just about all of the big stars; I just needed commons.

    Over time, I sent in many of my raw cards and purchased cards off of eBay. I also purchased a few lots from members on the board. Doing this has got me up to about the 45%.

    I am currently about three or four cards short of completing my set (45% about graded, the other 55% raw). I keep a handy two page chart listing just the card number and grade for all of my cards. I highlight those ungraded cards in orange on my sheet that I am looking to send in to grade in the future. If there is a blank box next to the card number and it is not highlighted orange, it is a card I try to pick up all ready graded. When I then get enough duplicates of raw (after buying graded counterparts), I sell those lots on eBay and reinvest. For about the last year and a half, my main focus has been on the high numbers. You will see that I am pretty strong on the highs.

    I too selected the set because it is my birth year. Good luck. If you need any more pointers, etc., feel free to drop me an e-mail.
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