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get over the "AT vs NT" obsession

where slabing of coins is concerned, "AT vs NT" is meaningless, pure, aimless, meandering nonsensical empty rubbish.

the question is "slabable vs not slabable", which equates to "mkt-acceptable vs mkt-unacceptable" (for those of you who think the "market" consists of slabed coins).

K S

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    MadMartyMadMarty Posts: 16,697 ✭✭✭
    Give em' hell Karl!!!
    It is not exactly cheating, I prefer to consider it creative problem solving!!!

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    LucyBopLucyBop Posts: 14,004 ✭✭✭
    I disagree!

    If I bop you in the eye and you get a shiner, is that AT or NT????
    imageBe Bop A Lula!!
    "Senorita HepKitty"
    "I want a real cool Kitty from Hepcat City, to stay in step with me" - Bill Carter
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    dragondragon Posts: 4,548 ✭✭
    And following that logic.........................if you are a collector of rare autographs or documents, it doesn't matter if they're original signatures and documents or if they were forged, as long as they were well done and market acceptable.....right??
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    << <i>And following that logic.........................if you are a collector of rare autographs or documents, it doesn't matter if they're original signatures and documents or if they were forged, as long as they were well done and market acceptable.....right?? >>



    Only if your CBS......
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    UncleJoeUncleJoe Posts: 2,523 ✭✭✭
    Only if your CBS......

    image

    dorkkarl, I think anyone that has read these threads for less than a week knows that you have different opinions and dislike slabs. No argument there, that works for you. But with all due respect I don't think you show due respect to those that do clollect coins that happen to be or prefer them to be slabbed. I think that is something you have to let go of.

    In that respect, NT or AT becomes very relevant (even though IMO this is probably as tricky as assigning MS grades)

    If this thread was an offshoot of those "other" threads, then again for me I think the point has been missed. If any other seller (pick one of the many that have been toasted on these message boards) had listed an auction claiming the coin was almost certainly NT and I'm too lazy to slab, and suggest a grade (especially one higher than the coin had previously) and big bonus or reward if YOU can slab it at a specific grade etc etc, that seller would have been torn to shreds by nearly every member here.

    My concern was why are the "rules" different for board members?

    Joe.
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    ms70ms70 Posts: 13,951 ✭✭✭✭✭

    If ET had a loose alien girlfriend would the mean she's EZ?

    Great transactions with oih82w8, JasonGaming, Moose1913.

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    dorkkarldorkkarl Posts: 12,692 ✭✭✭


    << <i>And following that logic.........................if you are a collector of rare autographs or documents, it doesn't matter if they're original signatures and documents or if they were forged, as long as they were well done and market acceptable.....right?? >>

    adding a forged signature is akin to adding a forged mintmark, not to adding tone. therefore, you are not "following that logic".



    << <i>dorkkarl, I think anyone that has read these threads for less than a week knows that you have different opinions and dislike slabs >>

    ironically, i DO NOT dislike slabs. what i dislike is the blatant over-hyping of slabs & the way they marketed to newbies in such a way that they believe that simply "buying slabs" is equivalent to being a coin collector.

    very, very few folks seem to have the guts to point this out.

    K S
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    dragondragon Posts: 4,548 ✭✭
    I was following your logic exactly, you are claiming that something as valuable, significant, and sought after as beautiful original toning as opposed to the work of a coin doctor is:

    "meaningless, pure, aimless, meandering nonsensical empty rubbish"

    These types of statements are typical and widespread of people who either don't understand beautifully toned coins, can't tell what is original from bogus with any accuracy, or just plain don't like them for whatever reason. They will say anything to try and convince others that toning is a fad, a ripoff, no one can tell the difference, not worth the money, etc, etc.

    In any case, your claims are 100% false and rather amateurish. What are you going to claim next, that dates and mintmarks are meaningless nonsensical pure rubbish too?
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    ERER Posts: 7,345


    << <i>I disagree!

    If I bop you in the eye and you get a shiner, is that AT or NT???? >>


    It 's artificially induced naturally toned.image
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    A common date MS-65 Morgan can be had for less then $100

    If a chemical reaction on the surface causes light to be reflected at different wave-lengths, it will change the way the eye sees the coin.

    If that change makes it more pleasing to the observer, the coin is then sold for MANY multiples of a coin with a pure original surface.

    So there is a financial incentive to alter the coins appearance.

    AT vs. NT does make a big difference - but unless you have followed the coin since it left the mint, there is no way to know for sure how the surface was altered.

    image
    My posts viewed image times
    since 8/1/6
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    dragondragon Posts: 4,548 ✭✭
    <<< AT vs. NT does make a big difference - but unless you have followed the coin since it left the mint, there is no way to know for sure how the surface was altered. >>>

    That's another untrue statement.

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    << <i>That's another untrue statement. >>



    Not at all.

    All you can do is compare the coin to "known" coins that were "discovered" say in an un-opened mint bag that were declared NT.

    You can also compare bad AT coins to other known bad AT coins.

    Those, in-between become "market-acceptable"
    image
    My posts viewed image times
    since 8/1/6
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    ziggy29ziggy29 Posts: 18,668 ✭✭✭


    << <i>what i dislike is the blatant over-hyping of slabs & the way they marketed to newbies in such a way that they believe that simply "buying slabs" is equivalent to being a coin collector. >>

    I think you can be a "slab" collector if that's all you do, but you can't be a *numismatist*. In that case, you're buying the plastic more than the coin. There's nothing wrong with "buying the plastic" as long as you're buying the coin first and foremost, and the slab secondarily.

    You can be a coin collector by buying slabs, and in some cases it's reasonable protection for a newbie from being horribly burned, BUT it's no substitute for picking up the books, learning to grade coins on your own, refining your own sense of eye appeal and being selective, understanding and appreciating the history behind the coin...even if you still only buy slabbed coins.

    Even when I look for slabbed stuff, I still insist on looking at the *coin* and seeing if I like it enough at that grade level and the money being offered. I don't just say "I want this coin in that grade" and buy the first slab I see (even it's cheap, because there's probably a reason it's cheap). I think a true numismatist wants to know all there is to know about coins, including the history, the grading, the detection of fakes and more. Without that, you are little more than an accumulator of coins embedded in plastic. Nine times on ten I pass on a coin I need in the slabbed grade I'm looking for because I *don't like the coin* enough to want it to represent one of the types in my collection.
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    tradedollarnuttradedollarnut Posts: 20,148 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Meaningless, I suppose, until it turns black in a few years. Bummer.
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    dorkkarldorkkarl Posts: 12,692 ✭✭✭


    << <i>I was following your logic exactly, you are claiming that something as valuable, significant, and sought after as beautiful original toning as opposed to the work of a coin doctor is:

    "meaningless, pure, aimless, meandering nonsensical empty rubbish" >>

    no, you are NOT following my logic, because you put my comment out of context. you forgot that i ALSO said "(for those of you who think the "market" consists of slabed coins)"

    my point IS that for those of you collecting by the plastic, the issue of AT VS NT IS BOGUS.

    all that matters is it's in plastic.

    sorry, but the rest of your argument is void since you did NOT follow my logic.

    (unless you seriously believe there are no AT coins in plastic)



    << <i>AT vs. NT does make a big difference - but unless you have followed the coin since it left the mint, there is no way to know for sure how the surface was altered. >>>

    That's another untrue statement >>

    i agree. however, it is true that there is NO CONSISTENT 100% ACCURATE test for what most of you are calling "at".

    however, there IS a 100% accurate test for mkt-acceptable (again, for plastic collectors) - if it's in pcgs or ngc plastic, it is by def'n M-A.

    K S
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    StuartStuart Posts: 9,761 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Karl: I remember back in the 1960's & 70's before certification & slabbing when most artificially toned coins were doctored to pass sliders for mint state coins.

    Now, because of the huge market premiums being placed on colorfully toned coins, there's a large commercial incentive for doctors to tone coins just for the color...

    Stuart

    Collect 18th & 19th Century US Type Coins, Silver Dollars, $20 Gold Double Eagles and World Crowns & Talers with High Eye Appeal

    "Luck is what happens when Preparation meets Opportunity"
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    nwcsnwcs Posts: 13,387 ✭✭✭


    << <i> think you can be a "slab" collector if that's all you do, but you can't be a *numismatist*. In that case, you're buying the plastic more than the coin. There's nothing wrong with "buying the plastic" as long as you're buying the coin first and foremost, and the slab secondarily.
    >>



    Um, you're overstating your case. I have no interest in being a numismatist and I do not buy the plastic more than the coin. I am a person who appreciates coins and their history/preservation but has zero interest in knowing the level of detail that others enjoy. I do get very tired of the attitude here that you are only "serious" about coins if you can recite the EAC pledge of allegiance or can describe in endless detail some minor die variety. Some people enjoy the deep details. More power to them. Others like me don't care. Those of us who don't care aren't any less of a collector or so clueless as to get duped by plastic. These generalities really are just silly at this point.

    Neil
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    ziggy29ziggy29 Posts: 18,668 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Um, you're overstating your case. I have no interest in being a numismatist and I do not buy the plastic more than the coin. >>

    Um, if you're not buying the plastic more than the coin, I believe what I said does not apply to you.
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    Sorry, but artificially toned coins have altered surfaces in my opinion and should be rejected outright by the grading services as well as the public. I do believe they may have some merit as artistic pieces, but to say that a naturally toned Morgan and an artificially toned Morgan of the same year and grade should have the same value, or that the AT piece should be worth more because it's prettier is ludicrous. It's like the coins on HSN. They put them in a slab that says Binion hoard or with the name of some sunken treasure ship, and we're all supposed to open up our wallets and pay 10x the retail price for them.
    image
    image
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    After reading way too much about toned coins over the last 3 days, here's my opinion on the subject.

    The issue with toning is not trying to determine whether a coin is AT vs. NT. I admit I know very little about metal chemistry, but when I hear the explanation about whether a coin is AT or not it sounds like circular reasoning to me. For example, "I just know the coin is AT and here's are my reasons to support what I already "know". Not exactly the scientific method, IMO.

    The issue with toning is "intent". In other words, did a collector and/or coin doctor intentionally tone a coin, either by storing the coin in a particular environment, putting it in a potato in an oven, etc. Or did the coin unintentionally tone over time in a mint bag, album, or paper envelope.

    And this IMO is the problem with the toning debate. No matter how much we try, in most cases it's impossible to determine "intent". Sure the coin doctor is easy, his/her intent is to AT. But what about the collector who puts a SAE in a paper envelope? Was it intentional or not? No one knows for sure.

    So based on my limited knowledge of this very strange segment of the hobby, I agree with DK. The only judge is the market and whether the market accepts the toning on the coin. The plastic surrounding the coin is a professional opinion that the toning is acceptable.

    Remember professional graders are not chemical engineers.
    Bill
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    dorkkarldorkkarl Posts: 12,692 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Sorry, but artificially toned coins have altered surfaces in my opinion and should be rejected outright by the grading services as well as the public. >>

    you are including coins stored in whitman albums, in original mint packaging, in paper tubes, in basements, in attics - all are arenas for altering the surfaces of coins.

    yet those same coins frequently are considered market-acceptable.

    regarding intent, yep, your danged right i intend to get tone on certain coins. that's why i put 'em in my whitman classics & store 'em next to the water heater. here again, i satisfy a proposed def'n of "a-t".

    yet my coins, put in artificial environments w/ the explicit intent to tone 'em - are STILL market-acceptable.

    again & again, the facts support the contention that "a-t vs n-t" is NOT the argument at hand.

    K S
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    BearBear Posts: 18,954 ✭✭
    My obsession is this, I dont want to spend a lot of money on a coin

    only to find out when I go to sell it that it is only worth cents on the dollar.

    I only buy PCGS coins, from reputable dealers , that are classical type, in very

    high grade that I believe are NT. Even so, I always wonder if it tis or it taint.

    Its getting tougher to know for sure every year. All one can do is be extra careful.
    There once was a place called
    Camelotimage
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    dorkkarldorkkarl Posts: 12,692 ✭✭✭
    do you ever buy a coin just because you like it, & to he11 w/ what anyone thinks, & to he11 w/ the price?

    K S
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    "where slabing of coins is concerned, "AT vs NT" is meaningless, pure, aimless, meandering nonsensical empty rubbish.

    the question is "slabable vs not slabable", which equates to "mkt-acceptable vs mkt-unacceptable" (for those of you who think the "market" consists of slabed coins).

    K S "

    I agree. It's always been my contention that if it's in an PCGS or NGC holder, that's good enough for me.

    adrian (in London and man am I tired)
    [Gotta go or wife will get majorly made at me (we're celebrating out 10th wedding anniversary)]
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    BAJJERFANBAJJERFAN Posts: 30,997 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Bag toning aka BT is just one type of natural toning or NT. Not all NT coins are eye appealing as you well know. There are a lot of NT coins that are downright ugly no matter which TPG slab they are in. I would think that most AT coins could be dipped and allowed to retone if the colors bother you. The sad thing about AT is that so many coins are ruined trying to get one nice one.
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    nwcsnwcs Posts: 13,387 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Bag toning aka BT is just one type of natural toning or NT. Not all NT coins are eye appealing as you well know. There are a lot of NT coins that are downright ugly no matter which TPG slab they are in. I would think that most AT coins could be dipped and allowed to retone if the colors bother you. The sad thing about AT is that so many coins are ruined trying to get one nice one. >>

    AT coins cannot always be dipped. And even if you did, you'd only end up with dip toning as you've stripped off so much of the coin surface. Not to mention the devastating effect on luster.

    >The sad thing about AT is that so many coins are ruined trying to get one nice one

    This I completely agree with!
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    BAJJERFANBAJJERFAN Posts: 30,997 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>AT coins cannot always be dipped. And even if you did, you'd only end up with dip toning as you've stripped off so much of the coin surface. Not to mention the devastating effect on luster. >>



    True which is why I said most and not all. Maybe I should have used some or many. Either way depending on how the toning was created it may or not be removable without ruining the coin. Since I don't AT or dip coins I have no experience in the area.

    I spose if you wanted to split hairs you could say that bag toning is a form of AT since the chemical residues on/in canvas are not normally a naturally occurring environment anywhere else. The reason that it is widely accepted as NT is because the bags were used for storage and not for the express purpose of toning the coins.
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    jomjom Posts: 3,390 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Some facts:

    1) Not all "AT'd" coins turn black a few years later.

    2) Some "NT" coins turn black after a few years.

    3) The TPG's slab "AT" coins.

    4) Slabs define what is "acceptable" NOT what is supposedly "AT". Two different things. Which is why 3) is true.

    However....

    5) Most important of all there really is NO set definition of "AT". Is it "live" or is it "Memorx"? Is it "intent" or is it "length of time"? Who knows? Who cares? Therefore, just based on THAT alone the statements above are rather moot...until you do come up with a definition.



    << <i>do you ever buy a coin just because you like it, & to he11 w/ what anyone thinks, & to he11 w/ the price? >>



    Well I DO care what the price is. In fact, it is part of the criteria of whether I "like" the coin. I've got to like the price too. Does that makes sense?

    jom
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    The "intent" argument is sooo lame! Yet the folks who spout it always feel they are being profound. It is hilarious!image
    "Wars are really ugly! They're dirty
    and they're cold.
    I don't want nobody to shoot me in the foxhole."
    Mary






    Best Franklin Website
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    ShamikaShamika Posts: 18,761 ✭✭✭✭
    BOTTOM LINE:

    If I like the coin, I buy it. I don't care what anyone else thinks.

    If I don't like the coin, I don't buy it. Again, I don't care what anyone else thinks.

    I collect coins, not opinions.

    Buyer and seller of vintage coin boards!
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    ShamikaShamika Posts: 18,761 ✭✭✭✭
    Some facts:

    1) Not all "AT'd" coins turn black a few years later.

    2) Some "NT" coins turn black after a few years.

    3) The TPG's slab "AT" coins.

    4) Slabs define what is "acceptable" NOT what is supposedly "AT". Two different things. Which is why 3) is true.

    However....

    5) Most important of all there really is NO set definition of "AT". Is it "live" or is it "Memorx"? Is it "intent" or is it "length of time"? Who knows? Who cares? Therefore, just based on THAT alone the statements above are rather moot...until you do come up with a definition.



    AMEN!


    Buyer and seller of vintage coin boards!
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    << <i>where slabing of coins is concerned, "AT vs NT" is meaningless, pure, aimless, meandering nonsensical empty rubbish.

    the question is "slabable vs not slabable", which equates to "mkt-acceptable vs mkt-unacceptable" (for those of you who think the "market" consists of slabed coins). K S >>



    It may even be more than that: Whether slabbed or raw - isn't the real question: Is it "saleable" ie - will another collector or dealer buy it because they are comfortable that the toning on the coin is original natural toning and not a "cooked" coin that was made in someone's chemistry lab last week?

    Bryan Sonnier has many toned coins that are NOT in slabs that I would love to own - I don't believe the issue is whether it's slabbed, but whether the coin is saleable in the open market to a knowledgeable coin collector or dealer - Maybe we're saying the same thing, because salability and market acceptable may be the same concept.
    Collecting eye-appealing Proof and MS Indian Head Cents, 1858 Flying Eagle and IHC patterns and beautiful toned coins.

    “It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so.” Mark Twain
    Newmismatist
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    DMWJRDMWJR Posts: 5,975 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I disagree!

    Karl the coins in question weren't in slabs, so your anti-slab propaganda on a slab board isn't relevant!image
    Doug
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    dorkkarldorkkarl Posts: 12,692 ✭✭✭
    i wasn't referring to those coins. i am referring to coins in slabs.

    K S
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    DMWJRDMWJR Posts: 5,975 ✭✭✭✭✭
    That was a joke.
    Doug
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    BAJJERFANBAJJERFAN Posts: 30,997 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>If I bop you in the eye and you get a shiner, is that AT or NT???? >>



    Natural toning; artificially induced. image
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    nwcsnwcs Posts: 13,387 ✭✭✭
    Thing is, we all put the burden on the purchaser. Why not put some burden on the seller? That is, a buyer asking the seller if they toned the coin themselves or not and the seller replying honestly. The real problem is not always whether a coin is AT or NT but whether a buyer can get factual and honest information from the seller. You know, like a seller being honest as to whether they dipped the coin you're looking at it. My issue has always been one of documentation. I think it's time to put some of that burden on the seller.
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    I think they should get over the whole color obsession. Coins are not minted in pretty colors. If you want pretty colors, go buy flowers. If you think a coin with colors is what you want to own then buy it or make your own. It sure would be nice though if we didn't have so many threads about AT and NT. If you like the color of the coin why is it so important how it got that way. What's more important is whether or not it will stay that way, and I've heard nothing yet about how to determine that.
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    nwcsnwcs Posts: 13,387 ✭✭✭
    >If you like the color of the coin why is it so important how it got that way

    It's important because people who artificially tone do not disclose that fact. They hide it. So it matters to that segment of collectors who cares/appreciates/wants color on their coins how it got there. Same thing could be said about tooling. If it makes the coin look better, who cares if it is tooled?
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    Of the top 20 threads right now, 8 of them are about toning. It seems that the grade, date and type of the coin is all secondary to the color. If the color is all thats important and so far there seems to be no agreement on how to define what is "natural" and there is no way to actually determine what is "natural," then why is it so important that it be "natural".

    Here's the best definition I can come up with. If I stuck my coin in a paper envelope and left it ina hot safe for 10 years as an investment and it comes out toned , that natural.

    If I stuck my coin in a paper envelope and put it an oven to make it toned , that AT.

    What's the difference, the intent?

    Maybe what we need is to have some good recipies for color. A book on "how to custom color your coins" would be a great seller, then we could have contests for the prettiest colors, best design etc.
    Probably won't happen too soon. There much more to be made making and selling them at multiples of value then there would be in book royalties.

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    dorkkarldorkkarl Posts: 12,692 ✭✭✭


    << <i>That was a joke. >>

    it was a mean joke.

    you're mean!

    K S
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    ElcontadorElcontador Posts: 7,425 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I don't care what is market acceptable. If a coin is not acceptable to me, I won't get near it. I want a coin that ideally is original. I will accept a dipped coin if all the dipping did was get crud off its surfaces and IMO did not damage its surfaces.

    I like PCGS and NGC in that I don't have to go through as many coins as in the pre-slabbing era to find one or more that are acceptable to me. Their authentication is good if I'm dealing with a coin which is often counterfeited and I want an insurance policy on the purchase.

    I do not like AT'd coins, and I don't care whether they are not they are slabbed. Karl, let me put it this way. You're looking for a girlfriend. Wouldn't you prefer someone who was born as a human female versus a guy who had a sex change operation?
    "Vou invadir o Nordeste,
    "Seu cabra da peste,
    "Sou Mangueira......."
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    << <i>Wouldn't you prefer someone who was born as a human female versus a guy who had a sex change operation? >>



    image

    I wonder if DK would consider her market acceptable?

    Michael
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    << <i>Wouldn't you prefer someone who was born as a human female versus a guy who had a sex change operation? >>




    If I married her(him, IT) and found out later she was "AT", she would definitely end up in a body bag.
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    DMWJRDMWJR Posts: 5,975 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>Wouldn't you prefer someone who was born as a human female versus a guy who had a sex change operation? >>




    If I married her(him, IT) and found out later she was "AT", she would definitely end up in a body bag. >>

    image
    Doug
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    Dog97Dog97 Posts: 7,875 ✭✭✭
    <<<And following that logic.........................if you are a collector of rare autographs or documents, it doesn't matter if they're original signatures and documents or if they were forged, as long as they were well done and market acceptable.....right??>>>

    Likw the coin collectors say "As long as you like it what does it matter if it real or not?"
    Change that we can believe in is that change which is 90% silver.
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    dorkkarldorkkarl Posts: 12,692 ✭✭✭
    i'd say, if you can't tell whether or not it's real, it don't matter, your gonna be happy!

    K S

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