Newbie Questions on Coin Show Etiquette
ChartreuseDog
Posts: 8
Hi! I'm new at this. My grandparents had a butcher store, and saved aside coins they thought were nice. I believe they also went to the bank and bought some new coins. This started about 80 years ago. Well, I wound up with the collection, and I've caught the coin bug.
I just sent in my first set of 8 coins for grading, including some 1878 Morgans. Of course, I'm hoping for MS-66, but, then again, aren't we all!
Actually, they're pretty nice, and, to my inexperienced (but well read) eye, look like at least one of them might make MS-65.
There's a big coin show coming up in December to Baltimore near where I live. I've got some other coins to get graded by then, but I've never been to a coin show before. I'll be going primarily to sell this time, not to buy (although I wouldn't be surprised if next time...)
Here are some questions for everyone:
- Pete
I just sent in my first set of 8 coins for grading, including some 1878 Morgans. Of course, I'm hoping for MS-66, but, then again, aren't we all!
Actually, they're pretty nice, and, to my inexperienced (but well read) eye, look like at least one of them might make MS-65.There's a big coin show coming up in December to Baltimore near where I live. I've got some other coins to get graded by then, but I've never been to a coin show before. I'll be going primarily to sell this time, not to buy (although I wouldn't be surprised if next time...)
Here are some questions for everyone:
- OK, do I just walk in the door with a briefcase full of coins? How do I not have a "rob me" sign on my back? (it is downtown Baltimore, after all)
- I'm a pretty polite person. Say my wildest fantasy comes true and I have an MS-65, 1878 Morgan in my case, in a PCGS slab, of course. What, I walk up to a dealer and actually expect him to write me a check for a couple of grand if he likes it?
- I don't want to be rude, but, obviously, with an expensive coin, I'd want to get a couple of offers for it. Is this kosher, or will this cause bad feelings? I'd be as nice as I can about it, how about something like "I appreciate the offer, but you can understand, for this kind of money, I'd like to see if there is someone else on the floor specifically looking for this coin who could offer me more. If the offers are close, you certainly will take priority."
- The show runs Thursday (dealers only), Friday, Saturday and Sunday. If my coins get good grades, I expect to take a vacation day from work on Friday. Will the dealers all have gone home Thursday afternoon, or will they still be there Friday?
- I haven't even considered the auction, at least not this time. Am I being stupid?
- A related topic: I also have a bag or two of coins that are merely good or very good, i.e., Barber quarters and dimes, some liberty standing quarters (even some early ones with the dates worn off). Other than buying a soda with them, how in the world do I get rid of them for book value (a couple of bucks apiece)?
- Pete
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Comments
I can't answer the specific etiquette questions as well as some others so I'll leave it for them. But, as for getting decent money for your coins --
You won't get near 'book' value for much of anything, anywhere, ever. You'll pay it to buy certain coins in a coin shop, but you won't receive it when you sell. Classic rarities, key dates, quality coins with exceptional eye appeal are exceptions, but usually as a collector selling, you are looking to get as close to Greysheet 'bid' as you can. The grey sheet is the Coin Dealer Newsletter (they have a website, and you can buy one copy at a time) and it lists levels for dealer-to-dealer wholesale transactions. Most sheet prices are around 2/3 of retail 'book' prices, but they vary. Lots of dealers will try to get your coins for 50% or less of 'sheet.' A dealer who will buy at 80% of sheet is giving you a fair deal, and they'll do it for things they really want, but for more common stuff they often won't.
I don't know what exactly you've got and in what grades, but for common collector coins, eBay is a good place to sell. the buyers are mostly other collectors, so you eliminate the dealer's 'cut.' Usually you wind up with a price within spitting distance of full 'sheet' price, although this can vary tremendously. Ebay is a snakepit, but it is basically the best place to get decent money for common stuff in my experience.
Others will have more to say on this too, but I dont' think it would be worth consigning anything to a real auction house unless you are selling several thousand dollars or more.
Anyway, if you are going to sell to dealers it would be a good idea to start with just a few coins, and those only after you've done some real research and know what kind of offer to anticipate as both realistic and fair.
Good luck -- it's a fun process but not without pitfalls.
this is your first post and you are learning grading, never been to a show etc. I understand you are well read, but I don't think now is a good time to sell for you - especially if you have so many questions just about the "physics" of selling at a show. I would go to the show and just get the feel of things - look around and observe what is happening and how. My .02
Best,
Billy
The Ludlow Brilliant Collection (1938-64)
">"http://www.cashcrate.com/5663377"
1. This show is held in downtown Baltimore for the past several years.. if safety was a concern they wouldn't still be holding it downtown.
2. If you're going on Friday, most likely the downtown will be quite busy with people around and businesses open. In my experience, downtowns are very safe in general, and even moreso during regular business hours on weekdays. I doubt you'll have to worry about the safety of your coins.
You seem to be taking a good approach to learning about what you have. You might want to consider the show a learning experience as well. Observe how other collectors offer coins for sale. But I'd advise against trying to sell yours since it's your first time around. Either way, you'll have a good time!
I think I will go in the "light of day"
To answer the question of what I've got, I've got several late 19th-century Morgans, all which, to me, look to be in great shape. There are only a couple of minimal "dings," no discernable wear, still nice and bright with good lustre. I sent in 3 for grading/slabbing, along with an early '20s Peace Dollar (wonderful shape, good strike), and some '30s vintage Mercury dimes, Buffalo nickels and Washington quarters. I have quite a few very nice Peace Dollars and Morgans still at home, along with a LOT of '30s vintage coins.
Here's that story: I obtained a "1939 World's Fair Bank" from my dad. It's the kind of bank where the coins check in, but you can't get them back out. The bank was basically filled up by 1940, with bright shiny new coins, then left alone. The coins in the middle of the bank were pretty well isolated from the air. They still look like the day they were put in. I drilled a hole with a diamond saw and emptied the bank.
I'm still trying to sort out all that I've got.
When I was a young'n back in the 60's, I also did my share of collecting bright shiny new coins, particularly Kennedies and Eisenhowers.
Thanks again! Still looking for ideas on what to do with the bags of good to very good coins. I've got a lot of those. Like, several pounds worth. Offering them one at a time on ebay would take the rest of my mortal life
- Pete
Shows are a great. Know what you are selling and what they are worth at a wholesale level and stick to your guns.
Baltimore is pretty safe but you might want to shop some of these coins around a little before
you go to a show. You should at least have an idea of grade and value before offerring them at
a show.
Prices are strong for cheap coins now too. The easiest way to sell G barbers is to the dealers
who advertise in the coin papers' classifieds. Many of these buyers are extremely picky so figure
some will come back to you.
If you have many BU rolls, there may be some value in learning enough about grading to spot
gems. Many of these bring stong prices where typical examples are inexpensive or even hard to
sell. Nice original rolls bring good prices on e-bat.
<< <i>Here's that story: I obtained a "1939 World's Fair Bank" from my dad. It's the kind of bank where the coins check in, but you can't get them back out. The bank was basically filled up by 1940, with bright shiny new coins, then left alone. The coins in the middle of the bank were pretty well isolated from the air. They still look like the day they were put in. I drilled a hole with a diamond saw and emptied the bank. >>
Hi Pete,
Ouch
I am a 1939/40 New York World's Fair collector and dealer (mostly unpublished Kodachrome slides and construction photographs but I still buy and sell memorabilia), and I don't know which bank you had - the small or large 1939 or 1940 Pittsburgh Plate Glass block bank, or the spherical Petroleum 1939 glass bank, but those are worth around $90 to $200 depending on the size, type and variety - that is..without the drilled hole. You can remove the coins with a peice of folded paper if the bank is not absolutley full. That is how I empty them. They are getting quite hard to find as the ones that are still around get broken - often for the coins. Which one was it?
Best,
Billy
Do you have a picture of this? I'd like to see the bank.
Katrina
Try selling them on the B/S/T forum here.
OK, do I just walk in the door with a briefcase full of coins? How do I not have a "rob me" sign on my back? (it is downtown Baltimore, after all)
I usually carry a backpack or other softpack. I think you would be more conspicuous with a metal briefcase cuffed to your wrist. BTW, I had the exact same fear when I went to my first show in downtown St. Louis. I remember buying two coins (the two most expensive coins that I had ever purchased at that time) and running from the show to the car, including up the stairs of the parking garage (6 flights!). It probably looked like I had stolen something. Be very careful, but do not be paranoid.
I'm a pretty polite person. Say my wildest fantasy comes true and I have an MS-65, 1878 Morgan in my case, in a PCGS slab, of course. What, I walk up to a dealer and actually expect him to write me a check for a couple of grand if he likes it?
Try not to take this wrong. Everyone (including myself) to some degree thinks that his coins are the greatest/coolest/most desirable. The reality is, unless you walk in with an 1804 silver dollar (exaggeration), the dealers at a show like this are not going to be excited. I do not collect Morgans but a quick check of retail prices suggests a retail value of a common variety of 1878 Morgan is $1300-1400. Wholesale, I would guess would be about half that. If the coin is beautifully toned, it may be worth more.
I would show the coin to a few dealers that have like coins in their cases and see if they are interested. Their body language will often be more telling than what they say. They might ask you what you expect to get for your coin(s), so be prepared for a reasonable response. If you are way off base, you are probably done.
Try to get cash, especially if you are dealing with a smaller dealer. It will not be hard to tell the difference.
Buying coins is a piece of cake. Any numbskull (like myself) can write a check. Selling a coin is orders of magnitude more difficult. Consider hooking up with an experienced forum member collector (or dealer) at the show to show you the ropes.
I don't want to be rude, but, obviously, with an expensive coin, I'd want to get a couple of offers for it.
Getting a couple offers for a coin is always reasonable. I do not want to be rude, but please lower your expectations. I would rather you have low expectations and be pleasantly surprised than be disappointed. Be prepared for the distinct possibility that you will come home with your coins still in your backpack.
The show runs Thursday (dealers only), Friday, Saturday and Sunday.
Friday is the best day for you to go, and all of the dealers will be there.
I haven't even considered the auction, at least not this time. Am I being stupid?
If you have experience on ebay as a seller, it might be a good option. If not, you could consign the coin to an established ebay seller, who might charge a 4-10% commission. A coin auction (ie. Heritage) for the 1878 Morgan in MS-65 is not likely going to be useful IMO.
I also have a bag or two of coins that are merely good or very good...
I agree with the answer to look in the back of Coin World for a large ad for a buyer of this material. Cherrypick it first--make sure that you are not selling a 1916 standing quarter (as an example) for the price of scrap. A local coin shop may be a decent place to unload this material once you have checked out the coins and are armed with information on what other buyers pay for it.
It is fun to occasionally throw an obsolete coin into circulation. You might inspire someone else to collect.
If you do not have one, buy a Redbook at a local coin shop or bookstore or a used one on ebay, if you like. This is an excellent general reference to learn what the key dates are and roughly (very roughly) what the retail prices are.
There are my own opinions from my own limited experience. Ask specific questions on these message boards and you will get a lot of answers and learn a lot and have fun. Good luck!
Perhaps I could meet with you at Baltimore and review (at least some of) your coins for you, as well as give you some pointers regarding submissions, selling and/or even not selling.
I advise caution in your situation, so please feel free to check me out in advance if you plan to meet with me, without worrying about insulting me.
BTw, I can vouch for coinguy1, if you want to take him up on his offer. He's a straight shooter.
Dealers will always give you the lowest price possible. I only go to a dealer for raw bullion transactions, and even then, I could get more selling on eBay.
Also, in answer to your question, I would just say that you are thinking of selling the coin(s), and are 'taking offers' during the show. But BEFORE you go - search 'ended auctions' on eBay for a comparison. That will remove any awkwardness - and you may have a 'small' notebook handy to jot them down the offers/names/etc. I would not take all of your coins - just a handful in a small bag of some sort - something that appears inconspicuous.
Regarding safety - take someone with you to watch your back - and keep alert - look around before getting out of car and look around as you travel. It wouldn't hurt to have a small tube of pepper spray in your handturned on and 'ready to squirt'.
Have fun - and you may want to hang on to a few of your coins to pass to your younger family members.
You do not want to make a mistake that you'll regret the rest of your life. Sort thru your MS coins carefully as one point on the Sheldon scale,(we're alking about PCGS and or NGC coins now) can make a huge difference in "worth."
Certify the coins that merit it and instead of selling to any dealer either find someone established in the community to sell them for you or consign them to a Major auction house...ie.-Heritage.
Thanksgiving National Battlefield Coin Show is November 29-30, 2024 at the Eisenhower Allstar Sportsplex, Gettysburg, PA. Tables are available. WWW.AmericasCoinShows.com
May or may not be true, depending on the coin.
Take your time and READ...learn as much as you can about your coins, then learn some more.
Agree 100%.
You do not want to make a mistake that you'll regret the rest of your life.
A bit dramatic.
Why not start out with a small coin show to cut your teeth on?
Excellent suggestion. Baltimore is a big, national show. Smaller shows might be the appropriate venue for your material.
<< <i>You do not want to make a mistake that you'll regret the rest of your life.
A bit dramatic.
Hi,
I dunnu....ask the glass bank. While an extreme example was given above, you could easily make a costly mistake with 1 point on the Sheldon scale as mentioned earler.
Best,
Billy
PS - best advice I have seen is read...read all you can stand (but sitting down is easier)
I'm a little confused here with prices. PCGS reports retail prices, yes? My assumption was that the price that coins would sell to dealers at would be about half that. Reading one of the posts, though, (coinguy1?) it looked like the wholesale price is half the PCGS price, and the dealer buy price is half of that? Yes?
Anyway, here are some pictures of a lesser quality coin that I still have at home (not up for grading right now):
Morgan Obverse
Morgan Reverse
It's OK, but the surface is a little "odd." It almost looks like it had been cleaned, except the scratches are only on the background, and aren't parallel, but under the loupe look like teeny little worms were squirming around on the surface and left random trails. Bag marks from being in with smaller coins maybe??? I figure maybe MS-60 or MS-63 if the grader is in a good mood.
And here are pictures of the glass bank:
One shot of the glass bank
Another shot of the glass bank
No, I don't regret drilling into it. I had checked the prices on eBay before I started, and found that this particular bank typically goes for about $50. I figured drilling into it would take it down in value by at least half, which was worth the time it would have taken to take the 10 pounds of coins out of it one at a time with a folded paper. I tried to be neat and careful with the hole, and found a reasonably attractive plug for it.
My original intention with the coin show was to take some of my "minor" coins with me (maybe a couple of buffalo nickels and/or Mercury dimes) and see if I could get enough money for them (combined) to pay back the $350 or so I spent on coin supplies (snaps, books, grading). I would definitley love to hook up with anyone who would want to help out, especially CoinGuy1 (whom, looking at his web site, seems to specialize in exactly the coins I would have in my bag).
I was tempted to take a Morgan or two with me, if they graded high, but I suppose that was probably a bad idea the first show. I was a little concerned there's a "price bubble" in Morgans, and I didn't want it to collapse before I sold one or two.
I want to grade some representative coins so I can see some examples of how the experts grade MS coins, so I can learn.
As far as selling coins on eBay, from what I can see of the prices, it looks to me like coins sell better if the buyer can actually see them for himself, if they have good eye appeal. Most of mine do have good eye appeal.
I don't think I'll be able to make the Annapolis and Frederick shows mentioned, although there's a couple of monthly meetings in Towson. I haven't figured out yet if ther're a club, a small show, or whatever. Anyone know anything about them?
Thanks to everyone who replied so far!
- Pete
PS I already made a terrible horrible mistake a couple of years ago, selling a bunch of coins to a roving coin dealer coming through town, that gave me $3 each for a bunch of Morgans, some of them in VF (maybe even AU) condition. No rare dates, thankfully - at least I was smart enough to check that first.
PPS I plan to hold onto quite a few of these coins to pass on. If they grade high, however, I might want to get them out of the house. Even $100 coins, if you have a couple of hundred of them, add up in value quickly!
<< <i>I figure maybe MS-60 or MS-63 if the grader is in a good mood. >>
It might be best if you lowered your expectations a few notches. The coin pictured is nowhere near MS60-63. Probably net graded to VF or so. Looks like AU details but the cleaning has it net graded down a few notches to the value of VF or so. mike
-YN Currently Collecting & Researching Colonial World Coins, Especially Spanish Coins, With a Great Interest in WWII Militaria.
My Ebay!
I did not have a chance to read all of this thread, but it doesn't matter since I have the same advice regardless of other suggestions. Here they are:
1) When selling coins/currency (or anything of value), always.....ALWAYS...obtain multiple offers. Our standard store policy is to make a written offer and then have the seller shop the deal around town. Some people think that we are crazy to have that policy, but it seems that we usually end up winning the offer. This policy guarantees that the seller is getting the best offer...at least locally.
2) Regarding etiquette, it's best to approach a dealer at a show and ask if he/she is interested in buying your coin collection. If they say "no", then do not be upset. Simply move on to the next dealer. You will find that there friendly dealers and there are some rude dealers. Just walk into the show with thick skin and don't take rejection or low-ball offers personally.
3) Let each dealer know that you are soliciting bids for your collection. Some will NOT like this and probably pass. They are the low-ballers, so nothing lost there. Letting the dealers know that you are obtaining offers will push them to sharpen their pencils.
4) Don't be afraid to partition your collection into groups. Some dealers may be stronger in their respective area of expertise (i.e. Morgan Dollars or Barber Quarters). To this point, ask each dealer to make written offers on the various groups within your holdings.
5) Friday and Saturday are both great days to attend the Baltimore Convention. Friday is usually a bit more busy than Saturday, but both are good days.
6) The Baltimore shows that are organized by Ed and Gordon are magnificent shows and regarded as one of the best shows in the country. It is always a good time (if you are a coin nerd like so many of us).
I never miss a Baltimore show and the December show is no exception; we will have a table at the show. I will have the table number posted on our web site, www.jaderarecoin.com in a week or two. The site is new and still under construction, but the show schedule is being put together in a few days.
Regarding your questions about security and auctions: 1) simply apply commonsense to bringing coins into a show. Have a person with you if possible and park as close as possible to the show. Try to be obscure. I like RYK's suggestion on this issue. 2) auctions are a possibility, but you should obtain opinions from the various dealers if your holdings warrant an auction venue. On some material, the auction route can actually result in a lesser net return to you.
Finally, please don't be afraid to ask lots of questions. Most dealers will love to share their knowledge.
Good luck!
Dennis
Our eBay auctions - TRUE auctions: start at $0.01, no reserve, 30 day unconditional return privilege & free shipping!
Getting advice from JadeRareCoin and CoinGuy1 is truly hitting the jackpot for a newbie. If they offer their help, you would be wise to take them up on it.
Robert
<< <i>I had checked the prices on eBay before I started, and found that this particular bank typically goes for about $50. >>
Hi,
well, that is no way to accurately judge the value of a 1939 New York World's Fair collectible. I've been buying and selling since '89. I am also a "minor" vintage autograph dealer - I have bought several signed 8" x 10" signed by Richard Burton in the last year on eBay for under $15 - yet he lists for $225. EBay is useless in this respect. Like many say about the PCGS price guide - WAY off from reality. Coins I would have no idea as I don't blend eBay with coins. I see you had the large (?) 1939 Esso block bank - although not as scarce as the 1939 Petroleum spherical, much scarcer than the 1940 block version which most people seem to have, and either year smaller version. It looks like the small version in the pic you posted, but the small can't hold anywhere near the 10 lbs of coins as you describe. Yes, the large version is worth more than $50... Very few World's Fair collectors will be interested in buying a holed peice, and I can't see Lord Marcovan wearing it despite its obvious coin connection.
The image posted of the Morgan says a lot - it is a seriously impaired/abused coin. I am going to gamble here and guess that you have a lot more reading to do. There is a lot of good advice coming at you in here from the other members - listen to it!
Best,
Billy
A few of us meet at the Baltimore Coin Show on Saturday.If you would like to meet up we might be able to help steer you in the right direction.
Registry 1909-1958 Proof Lincolns
I have bought several signed 8" x 10" signed by Richard Burton in the last year on eBay for under $15 - yet he lists for $225.
He might "List" for $225, but is sounds like he trades for under $15. Did you sell them for $225?
Liberty: Parent of Science & Industry
<< <i>It might be best if you lowered your expectations a few notches-- this is good advice.
I have bought several signed 8" x 10" signed by Richard Burton in the last year on eBay for under $15 - yet he lists for $225.
He might "List" for $225, but is sounds like he trades for under $15. Did you sell them for $225? >>
Hi,
on eBay I get around $120 when I sell them, but that is to be expected - and these days no one is buying quite honestly so I hold them. I have sold them on eBay for more and for less. A lot depends on the inscription if any, and whether it is an original promo or lobby still or a copy etc.; a signed candid will be of a totally different value. Between the dealers I know and work (with (as I said, I am a small dealer) Burtons trade for around $150 for a good ISP from the 70's, and sell for around $200 to collectors. "Big" dealers will ask much more - sometimes $295 for an SP that may not even be an original still. Earlier fountain pen examples can bring more depending what is signed - usually playbills in this case - earliest I have is from 1949 - from the Old Vic.
Ebay is not a very good thermometer for signature values - almost literally all are pathetic and obvious forgeries - and yet I have bought $500 signatures from established collections with papers from Spence/Grad PSA/DNA on eBay from good auction houses for as little as $68 because people do not do their homework I guess. Ebay is a sewer that can yeild a gem every now and then as long as you have experience. I imagine the same hold true for this field but to a lesser degree? - I would not know.
I have been dealing in vintage Hollyowood signatures for years now - motsly 30's to 60's, and have been asked to write a few signature studies too. The most notable being the last, on both Judy Garland's signature from 1938-1968, and an article detailing the B/W 5x7's and 8x10's of her signed "love, Judy Garland" that sell on eBay and from "reputable" auction houses as "handsigned" despite being an Autopen variety sent out by Mid-Western Judy Garland Fan Club President Pat McMath in 1960. At last count, I have saved strangers about $5,700 judging from the "thank you" mail I still get. Apparently, people use the article/site as the basis for returns, which pleasese me no end. One of my favorite personal achievements, completed last year - sort of like a type set - is an all-vintage C. 1945 cast collection of sigs from the 1944 Hitchc'ck film Lifeboat - including the Steward George! (he is tough!).
Best,
Billy
Welcome to the forum, you can learn a lot here . . . most of it is even accurate!
I will provide a little different advice that perhaps what you are seeking. Although you are well-read, I think if you walked into a coin show to sell your collection now, you run the high probability of being eaten alive. I liken this to somebody who has seen every episode of "World Poker Tour", knows the rules, and even the major player's names, but has never played the game. They go to Las Vegas to reap the rewards of their knowledge and leave with no pants.
A case in point is the photo of the 1879-S Morgan you linked to in your post. While you may dream of similar coins coming back from a respected grading service as MS-66 or such, the reality (at least for this coin) is that it can be purchased for far less than the grading fee. I am not trying to be mean, but trying to help avoid disappointment and the sense you have been "ripped off" (which is oh so common with innocent collectors selling their "rare" and "valuable" coins).
Instead, I recommend you go to the show without coins and talk with dealers who will spend the time helping you continue your education. Examine coins in PCGS and NGC holders to begin your education with how coins are graded (and priced) in today's market. Take Mark up on his offer to meet with him at the show. Buy him lunch and chat coins. I bet it will be the best money you will spend at the show.
I also recommend strongly that you do not throw away money on having your coins certified until you know why the coins NEED to be authenticated and graded by a professional.
Lane
See http://www.doubledimes.com for a free online reference for US twenty-cent pieces
Y'all are cute when you contradict yourselves. Anyway, picking and choosing: no way would I sell coins on eBay, although I've already taken a chance and bought one there (not arrived yet, under $100, worth taking a chance, seated Liberty quarter that looked undervalued). I think I'd prefer to sell through dealers, although they take their cut, they work for their cut and amply deserve it (the good ones, that is, not the ones who try to get you to sell an MS-66 at an MS-60 price because you're new at this). Other than that, maybe sell to friends, once I find a local club.
After hearing the collective "EWWWWW" at the pictures of the coin I posted, I went back and looked at the coin itself. The picture looks like garbage, but the coin isn't anywhere near as bad. It's not my best by far (AU-58 or maybe, in my dreams, MS-60 - I probably won't even get it graded), but its clean, relatively white with good lustre but a bad surface and a weak strike (not wear, like some suggested, since, under a glass, everything is sharp and there is no break of lustre on the cheek or on the hair, or even on the eagle's neck or wings).
So, anyway, my question is, how do y'all get such great pictures of your coins? Not deceptive, but so that the picture accurately depicts what I would see if I looked at the coin in person? I tried about 10 pictures, with those two (see earlier in the thread) being the best.
I do need to go to a small show and see what good coins look like. I'm still holding out hope for MS-65 on at least one of the Morgans I submitted, although I wouldn't be surprised or upset if they graded lower. To all those "nice" people who suggested that I've never seen a book on grading before, I have spent a great deal of time perusing the web and reading up on grading and how to do it, especially on Morgans, just need to see them "live." To tell you the truth, I'm almost afraid to think they'd grade high. At this point, having a bunch of expensive coins would scare me more than having a bunch of "decent" coins around.
My Peace Dollars have a better chance of grading high, since I think they went right from the bank into the closet, whereas I'm not sure how my grandparents came up with the early Morgans. They came to this country around 1910, so anything earlier would have had to come to them second hand.
- Pete
PS I have done over 100 transactions on eBay, but only one involving buying a coin. I have the same nickname, ChartreuseDog, there as here.
But anyway, seriously, I hope the ones you sent in come back with numbers you'll be happy about, and best wishes selling the things you're selling.
As would seeing Mirabela contact the zoo for a needy monkey needing an uncle
If it does grade higher than a low AU grade, it might be a fun "Grade this coin" post using the same photos.
- Pete