Whats the lowest grade you'd accept for a super rare coin you need?

ColonialCoinUnion

In general, I start to get the woolies when a coin dips below XF.

I do have a couple of VFs, but some of the rarer colonials are only available (for less than the cost of a house) in F or VG.

But are they worth owning at all in that condition?

tjkillian

Easy, PO-01. There are many rare coins that I'd love in that grade, for example a Chain cent.

Tom

DominusDeus

AG3. FR2 and PO1 are almost too cull-like for me. AG3 is pushing it. G4 would be optimal.

UncleWiggly

I'm kinda in the same boat on something. I'm tempted to make it my goal to find the lowest grade possible.

Jerry

ms70

G04 / G06. Depending on how it looks.

DesertRat

"Super rare coin that I need."...that is a very subjective question. Some people limit their collections to only MS coins and others to what they can afford. I guess it would all depend on what you are looking for...Would be interesting to see Braddick's answer to this thread. As for me, if I really "needed it" I would say MS62 since I tend to like the MS coins more than circulated.

BAJJERFAN

You buy what you can afford. I spose its better to have a low grade example of a key date than none at all.

FatMan

<< <i>But are they worth owning at all in that condition? >>

Union

I can't answer the worth owning question because I collect for enjoyment only. So with your permission I will change the question for my response to "But can they be enjoyed in that condition?". And my answer is definitely yes!

Catch22

Full rims for me. I can tolerate a G-4 if the rims are a little weak on the reverse. I usually end up selling examples of G-4 and lower.

dollardude

With my budget, I'd like to have at least an AG03 (certified by PCGS/NGC, of course). The reason is so I can see enough detail to easily see and determine that it is, in fact, a super rare coin. I actually have an AG03 (Morgan 1893-S PCGS-certified). Of course, if I had the budget of some of the other folks on this board, my answer would probably be VG.

lathmach

B.U.
That's "Beat Up",------- not Brilliant Uncirculated.
I still kick myself for not buying a 1870CC quarter for $600 from Jim O'Donnell a few years ago that was a little rough.
You wait to get a coin in great condition that's really rare, and not some hyped crap, you may well have a long wait on your hands.

Ray

BAJJERFAN

I would love to have a 1895 Morgan but even a vf/xf is outta reach about now.

longtimecollector

My lowest grade slabbed coin is a G-4............

The rest of the set averages VF 20-25.............

Had my eye out for ANY example for a cuppla years..............

Paid PRIMO money...........

Does it bother me that its a G-4 ???????

HELL NO !!!!!!!

Proud to own a 1878-S Seated Half !!!!!

mrearlygold

I can still kick myself for missing a holed "I cut my way thru" variety, Higley a long time ago.

Tom

wayneherndon

Where's Braddick?

WH

Vet

I just got back grades on my 93s morgan I thought it would be at least VF PCGS says F15.It's still a nice coin as long as I can make out what it is is fine with me.

sliderider

If it was really that expensive and hard to get, and I wanted it, I'd settle for a bodybag (and have on several occasions).

clw54

<< <i>Whats the lowest grade you'd accept for a super rare coin you need? >>


P01

tradedollarnut

Whats the lowest grade you'd accept for a super rare coin you need?

The best example that I'm likely to find in the near future ... whatever grade that might be.

mgoodm3

I'd prefer AG or above. But if rare enough any grade will do.

magikbilly

Hi,
out of what I collect - A fully original toned Pr62 with good eye appeal.

Best,
Billy

Conder101

Poor-1. The cheapest of the last five large cents I need is still in four figures in that condition, and then they start getting expensive from there. The highest is five figures. If I ran across one of these in Poor-1 at a price I could afford of course I would accept it.

DeepCoin

If all I could afford is a Poor-01 for my series, then I would gladly try and find one I liked. I do face that dilemna as a 16-D Merc in MS is out of my range financially. I will probably have to stretch for an XF, but if I could only afford a G-4, then I would buy one of those to complete my set one day.

wingedliberty

If its dated 1792, I'll take a PO-1 or an FR1 any day. or even a 1916D Merc.

nwcs

>Whats the lowest grade you'd accept for a super rare coin you need?

FR 2

UncleJoe

Super rare can be a matter of pocketbook.

I have 12 restored date 13-S T2 Buffalo Nickels.

Do they count for the lowest grade?

Joe.

dorkkarl

po-1. i still need a 1796 half dollar, & i'd gladly accept a po-1 example.

K S

MrEureka

I would never buy a low grade coin because it was all I could afford. I'd rather wait until I could afford "the right coin".

But I'd happily buy a low grade coin if I had no hope of finding a significantly better one.

orie

Few years ago I purchase a 1795 $1 PCGS F15 for around a grand for my dollar type set. I really wouldn't feel any better if it were AU50. I'd rather have a XF 1879CC then a MS65 1882CC.
Luckly, I don't covet another collector's set. I'm very proud of my poor man's type set.

AuldFartte

<< <i>G04 / G06. Depending on how it looks. >>




... but I'd go lower for a Chain Cent.

rhedden

I can't bring myself to spend big dollars for something that's less than a VG. I have looked at a lot of 1799 large cents in AG and G priced in the thousands, and I haven't been tempted to buy one yet. I'd rather have a hole in my album than a hole in my pocket. If you're going to get a key date, make it something you'll be proud of, not something you'll have to make excuses for.

MacCrimmon

MS64; until an upgrade happens by.

mirabela

The lowest grade I'll take is "nice to look at." For me, in most series, that means something like VG or F, i.e. complete rims, all words, major devices with some detail remaining, etc. At my budget that cuts me out of a lot of key dates and some types completely, but I just can't see enjoying a Fr-2 1901-S quarter or that kind of thing very much. It would depress me. Consequently, I only hold a few key dates.

Rob790

AU 55. I think anything that grades G4 would be too easy to fake and that would always bother me, even if it was certified.

Conder101

<< <i>I would never buy a low grade coin because it was all I could afford. I'd rather wait until I could afford "the right coin". >>


But what if you will never be able to afford that "right coin"? Of the large cents I need, to get a nice middle grade of one piece would take several years worth of my gross annual income. (and by the time I could come up with that much I'm sure they will be seriously higher.) Not buying anything for the next ten to fifteen years while I save up to get that one "right" coin isn't going to result in much of a collection. I would literally be a coin collector, just one coin. No, I will take the very low grade coin if it makes appearance and be thrilled to get it.

SethChandler

I think there is a G 1894-S dime floating around, I'd take that.

callawayc7

My lowest would be a G-4. Anything lower than that and the details are just too far gone for me.

MrEureka

But what if you will never be able to afford that "right coin"?

Fortunately, there's nothing that expensive in the series I collect. If there were, I suppose I'd have no choice but to compromise.

Baley

I need all the draped bust, small eagle silver coins, and I'm going to insist on being able to see the whole eagle, so probably Fine would be as low as I'd accept, unless a super sharp VG turned up. Would also consider a coin with VF details but net VG or so because of old scratches.

Monstavet

I am with Conder on this one. It is nice to talk about being patient, and waiting for just that right coin that fits your collection so well....but frankly, who has the patience? I'd rather fill in the spot and then look or wait to upgrade. Not to say you buy the first thing that comes to mind. By the time I am ready to actually buy a coin, a lot of thought and decision making and elimination has gone into it. If it is "super rare" you will always be able to sell the first one you acquire after you upgrade...and maybe make a profit.

khayse

MS63?

I would actually have to be in the position to say.

-KHayse

Robgetty

I prefer XF and above. But I'll dip as low as I need.

My chain cent is a PCGS PO-01!

Wolf359

For certain rare Morgan, pretty low. I have a couple of G6-G8 Micro O's.

1956Quarter

It depends on the coin. I've been hunting the 1932D quarter and a 1916D dime now for some time. I need to find the right coin at the right price in the right condition. I don't have money falling out my pockets, so cost can be a factor. I find that the quarters can start to get ugly pretty fast and it makes a bad showing coin with much less appeal. So I've limited myself to a solid AU as the lowest grade I'd accept if it met my hairy eyeball scruitiny. For the Mercury, this coin seems to display a lot better in lesser grades, and tends to retain its eye appeal in lower grades. I'd still shoot for an AU if I could, but for the Merc, I'd be willing to go as low as VF if it passed my hairy eyeball scruitiny. Although, there are really not any rare dates in the series when compared to Mercs of the Washingtons, I find myself searching for MS65 coins for my Franklin set. Anything less I feel is too loosely graded and shows too many distractions for my liking.

BAJJERFAN

But what if you will never be able to afford that "right coin"?

Fortunately, there's nothing that expensive in the series I collect. If there were, I suppose I'd have no choice but to compromise.

xxxxxx

Even a low grade key date filler might bring you a better return on your money as opposed to letting it sit in a bank account until you can afford the nicer example.

Cratylus

Mirabela said:


<< <i>The lowest grade I'll take is "nice to look at." For me, in most series, that means something like VG or F, i.e. complete rims, all words, major devices with some detail remaining, etc. At my budget that cuts me out of a lot of key dates and some types completely, but I just can't see enjoying a Fr-2 1901-S quarter or that kind of thing very much. >>




I couldn't agree more. I can't see paying money for a shiny piece of metal that looks like a total dog just so I can say I filled that last hole in my coin album. If a "nice to look at" example is too far out of my financial reach, I'll put that date on hold until I can afford it later in life and I'll start collecting another series.

ConstellatioCollector

1786 Constellatio in F

michael

poor 1

if the coin was like no problems or damage just really clean smooth slick surfaces like a pocket piece but still with all the features mostly seen in a good light when tilted

michael

mojorizn

AG3. FR2 IF date and outline of central devices are present to the point that the coin type can be identified. (We're talking super rare key date here, otherwise, F12.)

mojo

100proof1957

PR68CAM

coachleonard

You can say 'i won't go below this grade' all you want--- but i guarantee you, if i offer up a genuine authenticated 1804 silver dollar in Poor conditon for $500, the 'only-the-best' collectors will be scratching and clawing to get ahold of it just as much as the 'ill-settle-for-Poor' crowd!l