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Looking for a 1857 VF to XF Flying Eagle Cent

I am looking for a 1857 VF to XF Flying Eagle cent.
Has anyone noticed a decent one around someplace for sale?
So far everytime i think i found one, it's been cleaned, or has some green corrosion spots or splotches on it.
Humm, a decent 1858 Large letter Cent would be nice too.
I would want to PCGS slab them if I can find them raw, or already slabbed would be nice too.
Thanks
Earl

oops sorry, I think I posted this in the wrong place.
Even though you guys are all really good though.
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Comments

  • wingedlibertywingedliberty Posts: 4,805 ✭✭✭
    I would try a dealer who specializes in copper, such as Rick Snow or Jack Beyemer. I would also try the BST forum here as well and post a thread expressing your interest. Good luck.
  • dorkkarldorkkarl Posts: 12,691 ✭✭✭
    hardly a rare coin, any coin show of any size would have 1. why would you want to pay for plastic for such a coin??? it's just not worth slabing!

    K S
  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 33,964 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Yes, why slab it? That really does not make any sense.

    Besides, many of the circulated slabbed coins that are graded by the "big two" are shamelessly overgraded. One of the best cirulated flyers that I've handled in recent years was in a PCI holder.

    Still I know what you are talking about when it comes to finding nice, no problem circualted coins at the shows. They are hard to find.
    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
  • Dennis88Dennis88 Posts: 5,797 ✭✭✭
    Wayne Herndon has an interesting 1858 SL for sale:

    linky

    Dennisimage
  • LanLordLanLord Posts: 11,714 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Perhaps this is off topic, but the difference between an AU and an EF is really minimal pricewise, but the difference when looking at the two in hand is substantial.

    I'd suggest upping your target to AU, the look of the feathers at that level is really worth it.
  • Thanks all, for the advice.
    Yes slabbing isn't everything, but I have some FE's now that are nice but they all have problems of one kind or another
    that preclude them from being slabbed. I wanted to up the standards and get some that could be slabbed.
    I have started a registry set witha FE I got slabbed from a coin recommended by a forum member earlier. It turned out to be a really nice example too.
    When I went to the last couple of coin shows, you had either the beautiful MS62 or better FE's or the cruddy ones, but nothing in between.
    I have one AU FE that is really nice, but some smart alec had cleverly cleaned it, so I'll have to carry it around in my pocket for a while and then put it in a Whittman folder for a few of years, maybe it'll be OK then. I have another AU which I got really cheap because it had problems, with the unremovable black splotches. I had hoped the splotches were removable but they aren't budging (olive oil, Goo-Off, Aceton, trichlor little effect). I'll see what happens after a year or so in olive oil.
    Another FE looked like a 1858/7 variety, but when you look at it at 10x or better, you can see where a unique scratch had raised a seven shaped bump next to the eight.
    So I'm still looking.
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  • Wayne Herndon has an interesting 1858 SL for sale:
    Thanks for the tip
    image
  • airplanenutairplanenut Posts: 22,148 ✭✭✭✭✭
    If you have coins that are damaged, learn how to spot the damage--these coins simply aren't worth slabbing in most cases, thus they aren't. Also, for a series where so many will have high grade MS examples, what is the necessity to have a registry set of these coins? These are the kinds of coins that should just stay raw...
    JK Coin Photography - eBay Consignments | High Quality Photos | LOW Prices | 20% of Consignment Proceeds Go to Pancreatic Cancer Research
  • If you have coins that are damaged, learn how to spot the damage--these coins simply aren't worth slabbing in most cases, thus they aren't. Also, for a series where so many will have high grade MS examples, what is the necessity to have a registry set of these coins? These are the kinds of coins that should just stay raw...

    Yes I agree, I am much better at it now. Maybe too good, everything looks to have a problem now.
    Why register, is sort of like asking why ride a Harley, why climb Mount Everest, why put in a registry set when you'll be dead last,
    why slab a PO1? Beats the heck out of me, I can't answer that for myself too. Anyway, since all my registry sets so far have me dead last, why break a good run.image
    image
  • I just picked up those problem fee example on Ebay a few weeks ago for like $30 bucks so if you know how to tell if a coin is cleaned and you look for good pictures and good feedback .......maybe Ebay is the answer??? I am torn between a VF30 and full EF40, but either way it's still a solid coin for $30


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