Very curious... is that Breen I hear rolling over in his grave?
QDB states that matte proofs were struck in both 1921 and 22, but then hedges by saying that a number of fakes were made by machining the rims flat, coating the reeding, then pickling the devices of a well-struck coin! He later (in the text) says that about 10 1921 matte proofs were made and 2 sandblast proofs were made of the 1922 dollar, as well as 8 sandblast proofs (approx.) and perhaps 3 satin proofs (per Breen).
Hoot
From this hour I ordain myself loos'd of limits and imaginary lines. - Whitman
Islemangu, the image you posted looks to be of a Satin, not a Matte Proof Peace Dollar. There is apparently not as much debate about whether they actually exist, though I have seen a number of alleged Proofs of that type which were not at all convincing.
This is the 21 matte proof (NGC PR-65) sold in the Goldberg auction as part of the complete proof set (Benson Feb 16th, 01 lot 2245). I have no idea whether matte proof 21's exist as a mint product, but it sure is an attractive coin.
Developing theory is what we are meant to do as academic researchers and it sets us apart from practitioners and consultants. Gregor
There is apparently not as much debate about whether they actually exist, though I have seen a number of alleged Proofs of that type which were not at all convincing.
The problem with the satin 21's is that the proof dies continued to be used after the intended proofs were struck. As a result, there are many "near proofs" exhibiting (from the first struck to the last) progressively diminished proof characteristics. I'm not convinced that there is any way to look at the coins and know which is the last proof struck and the first "near proof".
Frankly, I would not advise paying a lot of money for a purported proof 21 unless you really know what you're doing. I definitely would not rely on a TPG to make the decision for me.
Andy Lustig
Doggedly collecting coins of the Central American Republic.
Visit the Society of US Pattern Collectors at USPatterns.com.
I agree, mostly, with what Andy had to say. I have had examples of both Matte and Satin finish 1921 Peace Dollars, that I believed to be proof strikings. I have also had examples of the Matte, 1922, T21 Peace Dollar.
As Andy said, do not depend on any one else's opinion. You must be convinced. It is your money and you have to be the satisfied owner.
PNG member, numismatic dealer since 1965. Operates a retail store, also has exhibited at over 1000 shows. I firmly believe in numismatics as the world's greatest hobby, but recognize that this is a luxury and without collectors, we can all spend/melt our collections/inventories.
Aren't there strike characteristics as well as die polish lines that help identify the satin proof dies from the non-proof dies?
I submitted a coin to ANACS a couple of Long Beaches ago that was walked around the floor and show to the dollar experts to determine whether or not it was a Satin proof.
It has die polish lines in the obverse left field as well as die polish lines on the reverse with extremely strong strike. After studying it for the better part of 2 days it came back as a non-proof, but a very early business strike from the proof dies - or as Andy calls it "near proof."
The main characteristic it was missing was a slightly doubled reverse eagle. I was told that the proofs were actually struck twice to really bring up the relief and there is usually a slight doubling effect to the eagle's wing tip that confirms it as a proof.
Well, it was an interesting experience and I still look for these "near proof" 21s. Mine now resides nicely in my Waye Raymond Peace $ set and has started to tone up as well.
Here are the images of two 1921 Peace Dollars from recent Heritage sales. One is a ANACS Satin Pf-62 and the other is a PCGS MS-67. One sold for $10,350, the other for $24,150.
<< <i>The problem with the satin 21's is that the proof dies continued to be used after the intended proofs were struck. As a result, there are many "near proofs" exhibiting (from the first struck to the last) progressively diminished proof characteristics. I'm not convinced that there is any way to look at the coins and know which is the last proof struck and the first "near proof". >>
Andy, doesn't that apply to the Proof (1907 $20) High Relief's, as well? If I understood him correctly, a PCGS owner/grader used that logic/argument to explain why PCGS wont recognize Proof High Relief's.
Comments
As for the Matte 21's, I more or less agree with HRH. I've never seen one that 100% convinced me.
Doggedly collecting coins of the Central American Republic.
Visit the Society of US Pattern Collectors at USPatterns.com.
QDB states that matte proofs were struck in both 1921 and 22, but then hedges by saying that a number of fakes were made by machining the rims flat, coating the reeding, then pickling the devices of a well-struck coin! He later (in the text) says that about 10 1921 matte proofs were made and 2 sandblast proofs were made of the 1922 dollar, as well as 8 sandblast proofs (approx.) and perhaps 3 satin proofs (per Breen).
Hoot
and it sets us apart from practitioners and consultants. Gregor
The problem with the satin 21's is that the proof dies continued to be used after the intended proofs were struck. As a result, there are many "near proofs" exhibiting (from the first struck to the last) progressively diminished proof characteristics. I'm not convinced that there is any way to look at the coins and know which is the last proof struck and the first "near proof".
Frankly, I would not advise paying a lot of money for a purported proof 21 unless you really know what you're doing. I definitely would not rely on a TPG to make the decision for me.
Doggedly collecting coins of the Central American Republic.
Visit the Society of US Pattern Collectors at USPatterns.com.
As Andy said, do not depend on any one else's opinion. You must be convinced. It is your money and you have to be the satisfied owner.
I firmly believe in numismatics as the world's greatest hobby, but recognize that this is a luxury and without collectors, we can all spend/melt our collections/inventories.
eBaystore
I submitted a coin to ANACS a couple of Long Beaches ago that was walked around the floor and show to the dollar experts to determine whether or not it was a Satin proof.
It has die polish lines in the obverse left field as well as die polish lines on the reverse with extremely strong strike. After studying it for the better part of 2 days it came back as a non-proof, but a very early business strike from the proof dies - or as Andy calls it "near proof."
The main characteristic it was missing was a slightly doubled reverse eagle. I was told that the proofs were actually struck twice to really bring up the relief and there is usually a slight doubling effect to the eagle's wing tip that confirms it as a proof.
Well, it was an interesting experience and I still look for these "near proof" 21s. Mine now resides nicely in my Waye Raymond Peace $ set and has started to tone up as well.
Michael
Which one would you rather have??
<< <i>The problem with the satin 21's is that the proof dies continued to be used after the intended proofs were struck. As a result, there are many "near proofs" exhibiting (from the first struck to the last) progressively diminished proof characteristics. I'm not convinced that there is any way to look at the coins and know which is the last proof struck and the first "near proof". >>
Andy, doesn't that apply to the Proof (1907 $20) High Relief's, as well? If I understood him correctly, a PCGS owner/grader used that logic/argument to explain why PCGS wont recognize Proof High Relief's.
Yes, although I'm not 100% convinced that the Mint ever intended to strike proof HR Saints.
Doggedly collecting coins of the Central American Republic.
Visit the Society of US Pattern Collectors at USPatterns.com.