Home U.S. Coin Forum

Short Sets

I read a post about 2 weeks ago discussing SHORT SETS. My reply post didn't really get me answers to my questions, and after searching online and in some reference books still have some questions to throw out there:

I've read that the Merc Shortset is 41-45 and the Walking Lib Half is 41-47. Why? What is the determining factor behind these dates?

Do many other types have a short set? Such as?

Where did the need (outside of the obvious: you don't have all of the coins to have a complete set, ergo, you're short) for the short set come from?

As a collector that wants to accomplish sets I dig the idea. I'm on a budget and I can still feel some sort of completion with these sets. Red Book, PCGS books, etc don't even define short set in their glossery. Any info or links you know of would be so cool!

Cheers!

Comments

  • mrearlygoldmrearlygold Posts: 17,858 ✭✭✭
    Doesn't conform with what you're saying but Classic US gold is a short set in itself. Affordable and very do-able pricewise.

    Rgrds
    Tomimage
  • ccrccr Posts: 2,446
    Walking Liberty Half short set started because of the Whitman Folders. In order to collect the entire set, they had to split it up into two folders. Since then, it became popular to split it into two short sets for those who don`t want to collect the entire set. The early " S " set of Morgans ( 1878 - S til 1882 - S ) are popular because of the quality condition and prices are very affordable. So with those examples, there are different reasons why certain short sets are what they are. There isn`t any sweeping reason that I`m aware of ( though there maybe one ) for why some are and others are not. It isn`t much help but, there are some short sets that can be explained why they are what they are.
  • RBinTexRBinTex Posts: 4,328
    "Do many other types have a short set? Such as?"

    e.g. for Lincolns it is defined as 1934-1958. HRH said on several occasions that PCGS would add this to the registry sets (& in fact is way overdue) but when I couldn't tell you. This set in particular is relatively easy to complete in a fairly respectable grade of MS66 (RD for all but the '43's) for about $3-4k.

    edited to "bold" YOUR statement image
  • For the Mercurys, the Pre-1934 dates can be pretty expensive in MS... there are two short sets for the Mercs. 41-45 and '34-45. '41-'45 are the most common coins of the series, and easilly (And cheaply) available in Unc grades, as many were saved in rolls and have survived. The '34-'45 set is a little bit longer, but is a definate break spot, because Mercs weren't made in '32 and '33 because of WWII. The '34-'45 has some more expensive coins in the 30s dates, and especially the 30s Branch mint coins... I personally, am working on the '34-'45 short set image
    -George
    42/92
  • Wow Russ that Eddy Santos is Good! Good to know there are modern short sets though - thanks!!
  • RussRuss Posts: 48,514 ✭✭✭


    << <i>how does one get a 71 out of the average highest grade being a 70? >>



    DCAM bonuses. In proof registry sets bonus points are awarded for cameo and deep cameo, like in copper where bonuses are awarded for RB and RD.

    So, for example, a PR68DCAM Accented Hair which has a DCAM bonus of three points is worth 71 registry points.

    Russ, NCNE
  • LincolnCentManLincolnCentMan Posts: 5,347 ✭✭✭✭
    What is the determining factor behind these dates?

    Those "shortsets" have been historicly sold by dealers as sets. They are, in effect, sub-sets of the over all set. All can be obtained with relative ease in MS, where that is not the case with the earlier dates. They have been popular among collectors as a result.

    Do many other types have a short set? Such as?
    I dont follow the registry close enough to know what shortsets are and arnt availible. I know that the lincoln shortset 1934-1958 is not availible in the registry.... a true shortcoming of the PCGS registry IMOH. There is probably more demand for that shortset than either the Mercs or the Walkers.

    Where did the need (outside of the obvious: you don't have all of the coins to have a complete set, ergo, you're short) for the short set come from?
    Well, honestly, there's no "need" for any registry. It is a perk that PCGS has provided us free of charge (and probably the biggest market driver since the inception of certified coins.) They try to cater for what the accepted collector sets are, and the short sets are part of that.

    As a collector that wants to accomplish sets I dig the idea. I'm on a budget and I can still feel some sort of completion with these sets.
    I cant speak for the other shortsets since I have little experience in them. The Lincoln shortset (1934-1958) would cost you about $3500-$4500 to complete in PCGS MS66RD depending on how nice your better date coins are. You could probably drive this cost lower that $3500 if you're able to get some of them raw and have them slabbed. I'm currently selling my shortset on e-bay. If I were to work on something else... I think it would be the walkers. I like the idea of having something bigger to look at. Besides... look at it, it's a beautiful coin.

    I hope this answers some of your questions.

    David
  • pursuitoflibertypursuitofliberty Posts: 6,913 ✭✭✭✭✭
    One of the nice things about a short set is when complete, the set can be expanded to include the earlier dates, or can be kept intact.

    For many years it was a marketing tool used by dealers (and probably still is). I'll use WLH's for and example ...

    Hard to convience a new collector to try to complete a Walking Liberty Set in higher grades (given the 19's and 21's, along with the other keys), but interesting them in completing a 41-47 Short Set was more reasonable. Since the stock of these later coins were greater, and because there was no outstanding rarity, it served another purpose as well ... new demand for the excess supply, which in turn occassionaly created new demand for dwindling (and therefore price increasing) supply, as some of these collectors advanced to earlier dates.

    I also believe it is correct that it was started by the coin boards and whitman-type folders, however that is not completely true. It is most noticable on popular collections that have many pieces, which are substancially more readily available at the end of the series than in the begining. Series like the Barber Silver series never really qualified for short sets (even though they had multiple albums or boards sometimes) because the supply was thin at both ends, and the tough dates where on both ends also.

    The break in mintage in the early 30's makes 1934 to ?? an easy definition of a short set for series that passed through this time. Also, begining in the early 30's as we left the depression years coins were first becoming specultive, and people began to save rolls, which has given us the increased supply for our newer generation of collectors.

    The most popular short sets I can think of are the Lincoln's (34-58), Buffalo's (34-38), Mercury's (34-45 and 41-45), Walkers (34-47 and 41-47). The 41 cut-off also encouraged a Washington Short set (41-64).

    Type Sets can be considered a type of short set too when you think about it.

    In closing, it really matters what you like and are comfortable with, as is the case with all of numismatics. You might want to read a recent post by Mark Feld about a "half dozen things to keep in mind" ...

    My "short" or abrieviated set goals include; Barber Year Sets (25 coins, one per year, in my case a key or semi-key date if possible), a Final 50 Mercury Set (27-45 with a micro s), and a Final 40 WLH set (33-47).

    I'm sure there are almost as many of these abbreviated sets as there are collectors who collect them. image

    “We are only their care-takers,” he posed, “if we take good care of them, then centuries from now they may still be here … ”

    Todd - BHNC #242
  • CladiatorCladiator Posts: 18,041 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Don't forget Jefferson Nickels 42-45 image



    << <i>Mercs weren't made in '32 and '33 because of WWII >>


    George, what does 1932 and 1933 have to do with World War II (1941-1945)? hehe image
  • CladiatorCladiator Posts: 18,041 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Classic US gold is a short set in itself. Affordable and very do-able pricewise >>



    Man, don't know what your budget is but they sure arent ever close to affordably for me image What coins exactly are you talking about?
  • The '42 - '45 Silver War nickles make a great, affordable 11-coin short set. You can
    also include a 43/2-P somewhat reasonably and turn it into a nifty 12-coin set!

    The following aren't short sets as defined as a sub-set of something larger, but they
    are short, sweet and complete sets!

    1913-1937 Proof Buffalo nickels (8-coin set)
    1936-1942 Proof Walking Liberty halves (7-coin set)
    1936-1942 Proof Mercury dimes (7-coin set)
    1950-1963 Proof Franklin Halves (14-coin set)

    Ken
  • Hi,
    I read your post about short sets with interest. You can always build a set of your own design to fit your or budget - I did, to fit my own criteria. The possiblities are literally endless. Once I decided what I wanted to go after (very important; business strikes or Proofs, what designs, dates, condition, toning etc...), I was able to put it together in 3 months and still buy food...in that orderimage It is a Type Set of Proof Dimes - Seated, Barber, Winged Liberty and Roosevelt. You can see it in the Registry under "Basic U.S. Coin Design Set, No Gold (1792-present)". It is set #42 entitled "19th / 20th Century Proof Dime Type Set". I also am on a serious budget, but I would rather have just these 4 coins @ around $1200 than a quantity of more common stuff.
    Perhaps a set of 1937-1942 Proof Lincolns (leaving out the $$$ 1936) would be of interest? Pre 1950 Proofs are very cool in my book, and these are obtainable and not terribly expensive - yet something to be proud of (as is any nice coin or set). The whole '37-42 set can be had for quite reasonable $, either Red or Brown, in Pr63 for only a portion of what my dimes cost. Be patient, deliberate and only buy the best of whatever you go after. I am in the minority I should think, but I have nothing against a Brown or Red-Brown Proof Lincoln - just watch out for those fingerprints! IMHO, eye appeal (and a minimum of hairlines) is where it's at with Proof Lincolns. My .02, and also my next set too most likely!
    Best of luck to you and your collection!

    Best,
    Billy
  • Incredbible advice! Thanks to all of you.

    I may use some of my comcast bandwidth to make a page on shortsets. A google or yahoo search just doesn't net one concise hit for this subject. My guess is that more newbie collectors (myself included) would see collecting a far less daunting task by starting with shortsets rather than wondering aimlessly through all of the choices. I'm working on a type book (Dansco 7070) and that is trying in itself (example: AU or better Trade Dollar, not in my budget - yet).

    Thanks again! Mike


  • << <i>Don't forget Jefferson Nickels 42-45 image



    << <i>Mercs weren't made in '32 and '33 because of WWII >>


    George, what does 1932 and 1933 have to do with World War II (1941-1945)? hehe image >>

    Oops... image Great Depression... image
    -George
    42/92
  • ShamikaShamika Posts: 18,781 ✭✭✭✭
    Buffalo nickels 1934-1938 (12 coins).

    Lincoln cents 1934-1958 (71 coins).

    Buyer and seller of vintage coin boards!
  • Great ideas. You guys have got me thinking about doing a short set in addition to my Dansco U.S. type set. Not sure which set I would do, but it might look nice in a custom (blank pages) Dansco album.
    Bill
  • ttt last time - still looking for some more thoughts before i give it a rest image

Leave a Comment

BoldItalicStrikethroughOrdered listUnordered list
Emoji
Image
Align leftAlign centerAlign rightToggle HTML viewToggle full pageToggle lights
Drop image/file