Slabs & Toning question
anablep
Posts: 5,097 ✭✭✭✭✭
Okay, I've got a few questions I'm just curious about.
Is it possible for toning to occur to a silver coin while it is in a slab?
Does it take longer to occur due to less air circulating around the coin?
Will the rims tone first?
Will the humidity of the surroundings affect slabs as much as a raw coin?
Or have coins not been slabbed long enough to really know the answer?
Thanks guys.
Is it possible for toning to occur to a silver coin while it is in a slab?
Does it take longer to occur due to less air circulating around the coin?
Will the rims tone first?
Will the humidity of the surroundings affect slabs as much as a raw coin?
Or have coins not been slabbed long enough to really know the answer?
Thanks guys.
Always looking for attractive rim toned Morgan and Peace dollars in PCGS or (older) ANA/ANACS holders!
"Bongo hurtles along the rain soaked highway of life on underinflated bald retread tires."
~Wayne
"Bongo hurtles along the rain soaked highway of life on underinflated bald retread tires."
~Wayne
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Comments
<< <i>Is it possible for toning to occur to a silver coin while it is in a slab? >>
Yes.
<< <i>Does it take longer to occur due to less air circulating around the coin? >>
Probably, a little bit.
<< <i>Will the rims tone first? >>
Usually, from what I've seen.
<< <i>Will the humidity of the surroundings affect slabs as much as a raw coin? >>
Probably not, though humidity will have an effect on both. The average slab offers partial but not complete protection.
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since 8/1/6
David
At the time, some others here on the board suggested that the coins had some "contamination" prior to slabbing that continued to tone the coins after slabbing.
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Yes.
<< Does it take longer to occur due to less air circulating around the coin? >>
Not necessarily. It is no secret that many coins develop some fabulous toning especially in pre-2000 ANACS slabs. I have quite a few myself, that were white when submitted.
myEbay
DPOTD 3
Since slabs are not airtight, toning can be expected to form over time. But the process should be delayed given that the slab cuts down on the circulation of air around the coin, and given the inert nature of the materials in the slab.
I have some pre-2000 ANACS slabs and the Morgans have some really nice peripheral toning on them... nothing coving the coin, but just enough to make them interesting. Maybe they'll tone even more in the future.
"Bongo hurtles along the rain soaked highway of life on underinflated bald retread tires."
~Wayne
I think what they found was that raw coins toned in about 15 minutes to an hour depending on the coin.
The older slabs allowed coins to tone in about three days, and the old PCGS rattler some rediculous amount of time like a few hours (I'll check it later tonight to verify)
The newest PCGS and especially NGC slabs took more than a week and only allowed very very minor toning around the rims.
K S
<< <i>I'm still a little confused on the subject. Is toning a desirable feature on a coin? >>
It all depends upon what the toning looks like.
On silver coinage, which are the coins that get the most play, colorful rainbows and other hues that are viewed as attractive can add hundreds or even thousands to the value of the piece.
BUT, the dull brown ugly tarnish, toning that as gone too far - to the point were the luster is gone - and artificial toning are all negatives.
To learn what's good and what's bad, you need to look at a lot of coin in person and listen to those who have knowledge and experience. After a while most collectors do develop an "eye" for the good stuff athough for some it never works out.
">"http://www.cashcrate.com/5663377"
My rule of thumb on this: Treat slabbed coins the same as raw coins.
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This is incorrect information IMO. It is now common knowledge that the older thick NGC holders and the older ANACS holders definately caused silver coins to tone, not contaminates on the coins prior to slabbing.
I have quite a few of the very early generation thick NGC slabs containing silver dollars that I submitted MYSELF that are now significantly toned, and these coins were not in any way contaminated or dipped prior to submitting them. It is now actually unusual to see a silver dollar or other siver coin in an old early generation NGC holder that is NOT toned to some degree. The most common type of toning seen on these coins is rim toning in various stages, with some coins toning over completely. The most common colors seen are dark electric blue, a rust color, and various shades of burnt gold, or a combination of all three.
Since the great majority of silver coins in these early generation NGC holders have significant rim toning (which is often seen as splotchy and irregular), it is my opinion that something in the inner white core where it contacts the coin caused the toning, possibly some type of chemical or oily plasticizer or something.
The next time you're at a show and come across a group of silver coins in the early thick NGC holders, see for yourself what I'm talking about........chances are most of them will be toned around the periphery at the very least, and probably in shades of dark gold, rust, and/or dark blue.
dragon
edited to add: As far as the old first generation PCGS holders, it's been my experience that many of the large (untoned) silver coins now seen still in these holders have a somewhat less than lusterous brilliant look to them, or to be more specific, they have a somewhat greyish overall cast. IMO, I attribute this to the fact that the first generation PCGS holders were not even close to being relatively airtight, and exposure to the environment over the past 17-18 years has caused many of these coins to take on a somewhat dull appearance. I also think it is now unusual to see a very lusterous looking blast white large silver coin in a first generation PCGS holder.
While the plastic used for slabs (probably Polymethyl Methacrylate) is inert, it is very difficult locating truely pure grades of any resin (plastic).
The vast majority of resins are manufactured with all sorts of additives to not only improve various material properties (UV resistance, static buildup, impact strength), but also assist in the forming process (injection molding). Some of these additives used to help during injection molding include antioxidants, mold release agents, melt flow enhancers, and heat stabilizers.
What affect these additives might have on coins I haven't a clue, but I am rather sure they are not inert.
Makes me want to search out some older holders and just check out the toning just to get an idea of the pattern (if any) that results from being holdered for long periods of time. Kind of makes a good arguement against cracking out some coins...
"Bongo hurtles along the rain soaked highway of life on underinflated bald retread tires."
~Wayne