IM STARTING ROSIES!!!

coinguy89

Okay, as some of you know, im starting a collection of rosies. Its gonna be great. Some of you who know some stuff about them, that I should know please tell me. I need some tips, experiences, ideas, grading tips, storage tips, best buys, etc., etc. All and any help would be greatly appreciated.

nOoBiEeE

Didn't you just post this???

coinguy89

<< <i>Didn't you just post this??? >>



This is speciffically on rosies. I need help from the ones who collect these, that was just the annoncment of my excitment.

Russ

Didn't you just post this?

Russ, NCNE

onlyroosies

No... My icon has been hi-jacked. Coinguy use the 1947 Roosie icon its priettier.

Onlyroosies

coinguy89

<< <i>No... My icon has been hi-jacked. Coinguy use the 1947 Roosie icon its priettier.

Onlyroosies >>



Sorry didnt see that.

JrGMan2004

Nick's playing you off againest the other Roosy guys What are your plans, look wise, for the set? Brilliants? Toners?

coinguy89

<< <i> Nick's playing you off againest the other Roosy guys What are your plans, look wise, for the set? Brilliants? Toners? >>



I wanna do both Brilliants and Toners, they both are quite attractive.

onlyroosies

Are you collecting raw or slabbed. If you are going to do a slabbed set only buy FB (full band)
Roosies. If your going to do a raw set you can pick up a whole set in the album on eBay for
a couple hundred bucks. It would cost more then that to build a raw set. My recommendation
would be to build a complete slabbed MS65FB or better set of silver Roosies. You should be able
to pick up most of the dates for $15 - $20 a coin. Some less and some more.

Onlyroosies

RooseyFan

I agree with Nick on the FB issue and the fact that that 47 icon coin is great looking. (That's why it is now in my grimey mitts) If I was starting a collection, focus on fully struck attractive coins and you can't go wrong.

Butch

cladking

Don't omit the 1969-D/D. It's a nice variety that can be found in mint sets. (~5%)
Look for good strikes with full rounded lettering even near the rim.

This is a great set for a young man.

Have fun.

BillJones

There are four ways to collector Roosevelt Dimes:

· A “YN set” of circulated coins for close to the melt price

· A “BU” in set in a album bought in one fell swoop

· A “BU” set that you build one coin at a time, which can be fun but not financially efficient.

· A slab set full of “Full Torch” MS-65 or better coins

Here’s where my tastes lie. A BU set in an ancient Seitz Coin Case from the mid 1960s. The set was probably formed then, and there are some nice coins in it. You can find items like this at shows for $135.00 or so.



If you are really gung-ho about Roosevelt Dimes, go for the expensive slab set. But I can think of a lot more interesting things to do with the money.

coinguy89

<< <i>Are you collecting raw or slabbed. If you are going to do a slabbed set only buy FB (full band)
Roosies. If your going to do a raw set you can pick up a whole set in the album on eBay for
a couple hundred bucks. It would cost more then that to build a raw set. My recommendation
would be to build a complete slabbed MS65FB or better set of silver Roosies. You should be able
to pick up most of the dates for $15 - $20 a coin. Some less and some more.

Onlyroosies >>



Im not exactally sure if I want slabs or not, I think I do though, that would probably be best, I want to preserve the quality as best as I can. So $15-$20 a coin? That doesnt sound too bad for a guy like me, im talking $80 to the show on sunday, I need to keep the rest, just in case, I might go $100 though, not exactally sure yet. I think I will try for full torchs, do they put that on the slab, or am I gonna have to search that out? I dont mind what service grades it really, I just like the protection of the coin, lol.

coinguy89

Any other ideas?

CoinAddict

If you build a slabbed set I would go with PCGS coins so you can have fun building a registry set. You set does not have to be in the top 10 or even in the top 50 sets but you can still have a great time completing a set this way. Here is a link to all of the registry sets containing coins from 1946-1964 and here is a link to the coins from 1965 to present.

drainbamage

If I was to do it, I would target the proofs first because of the low mintage of the 1950-1955 Series. Then return for the higher mintage regular issues and such.

Personally I would also stick to the silver series. but that is more of a matter of personal preference.

coinguy89

<< <i>If you build a slabbed set I would go with PCGS coins so you can have fun building a registry set. You set does not have to be in the top 10 or even in the top 50 sets but you can still have a great time completing a set this way. Here is a link to all of the registry sets containing coins from 1946-1964 and here is a link to the coins from 1965 to present. >>



Wouldnt I pay a premium for PCGS, and doesnt it cost money for the registry set?

coinguy89

<< <i>If I was to do it, I would target the proofs first because of the low mintage of the 1950-1955 Series. Then return for the higher mintage regular issues and such.

Personally I would also stick to the silver series. but that is more of a matter of personal preference. >>



Yeah, Im thinking that the non-silver ones arent worth slabs, so maybe I could buy them raw, and put them in a nice album?

JrGMan2004

The PCGS and NGC Registries are both free

coinguy89

How come these grade so high, but look really circulated?

Heres the link-

http://www.heritagecoin.com/sales/InventoryList.asp?type=CoinLink_search_150x150_041102a

onlyroosies

Stick to PCGS, The premium will only be a couple bucks more if that over NGC in the
65FB grade. The set when completed will look more attractive if all the coins are in
the same holder. The FB will show on the holder.

If your going to do it then do it right from the beginning.

1) Only buy PCGS
2) MS65FB or higher grade
3) Do not buy ugly coins, Many roosies are graded MS65 because they are UGLY!
4) Don't be afraid to pass on a coin, If it just doesn't feel right, Pass. There will always be another coin.
4) Buy the highest grade you can aford. exp, 1959P MS66FB is a $25 coin, Don't pay $15 for a 65FB, Buy the 66FB.
5) Most Important.... Have FUN!!!

Onlyroosies

haletj

I think the Heritage scans just don't show the luster too well.

Anyway, if you're just worried about protection you can use plastic holders like the Whitman holders. They'll protect just as good as slabs. Below is a picture of my penny set. I also am working on a dime set 1934-2004. I must warn, be very careful about buying a complete BU set all at once for often the key dates will be sliders. I'd recommend doing it coin by coin and therefore you can be sure every coin is the condition that you want it in. It is definitely worth any extra cost, and if you get mint sets or rolls for the coins since the mid 50's you probably can get enough duplicates to sell that you end up paying a lot less for your set. Good luck! I don't have my dime set or duplicates with me, but when I have them again (a few months) maybe we can do some trading or something!

coinguy89

<< <i>Stick to PCGS, The premium will only be a couple bucks more if that over NGC in the
65FB grade. The set when completed will look more attractive if all the coins are in
the same holder. The FB will show on the holder.

If your going to do it then do it right from the beginning.

1) Only buy PCGS
2) MS65FB or higher grade
3) Do not buy ugly coins, Many roosies are graded MS65 because they are UGLY!
4) Don't be afraid to pass on a coin, If it just doesn't feel right, Pass. There will always be another coin.
4) Buy the highest grade you can aford. exp, 1959P MS66FB is a $25 coin, Don't pay $15 for a 65FB, Buy the 66FB.
5) Most Important.... Have FUN!!!

Onlyroosies >>



Thank you for your words of wisdom. I will remember that.

haletj

<< <i>4) Buy the highest grade you can aford. exp, 1959P MS66FB is a $25 coin, Don't pay $15 for a 65FB, Buy the 66FB >>


I say buy the raw ms66fb that is not hard to find at a show or even a small store for like $2. Make sure to learn to grade yourself, even if you buy pcgs ones for the quality of pcgs ms65/66 dimes vary tremendously.

Edited for spelling

coinguy89

<< <i>

<< <i>4) Buy the highest grade you can aford. exp, 1959P MS66FB is a $25 coin, Don't pay $15 for a 65FB, Buy the 66FB >>


I say buy the raw ms66fb that is not hard to find at a show or even a small store for like $2. Make sure to learn to grade yourself, even if you buy pcgs ones for the quality of pcgs ms65/66 dimes vary tremendously.

Edited for spelling >>



Would the price vary tremendously?

coinguy89

Im still not sure whether or not to get them all graded or get them and put them in an album.

Baley

getting coins graded by PCGS is fun and profitable...


for PCGS, that is!

coinguy89

<< <i>getting coins graded by PCGS is fun and profitable...


for PCGS, that is! >>



I was thinking about doing one of these:

Buy the silver ones, graded by PCGS atleast MS-65 with full torches(if the put that on there).

Buy the above and then do the same with the moderns.

Buy the first, but get the modern ones, and put them in a really nice album, in great condition.

GoYankees

<< <i>

<< <i>Stick to PCGS, The premium will only be a couple bucks more if that over NGC in the
65FB grade. The set when completed will look more attractive if all the coins are in
the same holder. The FB will show on the holder.

If your going to do it then do it right from the beginning.

1) Only buy PCGS
2) MS65FB or higher grade
3) Do not buy ugly coins, Many roosies are graded MS65 because they are UGLY!
4) Don't be afraid to pass on a coin, If it just doesn't feel right, Pass. There will always be another coin.
4) Buy the highest grade you can aford. exp, 1959P MS66FB is a $25 coin, Don't pay $15 for a 65FB, Buy the 66FB.
5) Most Important.... Have FUN!!!

Onlyroosies >>



Thank you for your words of wisdom. I will remember that. >>



As will I. Thanks!

BillJones

Go Yankees?

Is'nt that kind of like rooting for the lions to eat the Christians? Or for the German blitzkrieg to rout the Polish cavalry during World War Two?

Frankly the Yankees, their owner and their unlimited payroll have ruined professional baseball for me.

GoYankees

<< <i>

<< <i>getting coins graded by PCGS is fun and profitable...


for PCGS, that is! >>



I was thinking about doing one of these:

Buy the silver ones, graded by PCGS atleast MS-65 with full torches(if the put that on there).

Buy the above and then do the same with the moderns.

Buy the first, but get the modern ones, and put them in a really nice album, in great condition. >>



I was pretty much in the same boat as you. I decided to go with a PCGS slabbed set for the various reasons mentioned in this thread. The advantage to the silver Roosies is that it runs from (1946-64) as opposed to moderns (1965-). For recent years I've been collecting PCGS MS68FBs. I have two: 1999-P and 2002-P. If the pop is too low, I'll go after the 67FBs and so on. I wasn't sure about the silver grades until onlyroosies mentioned the 65FBs. I'm also collecting Roosie proofs (moderns only, for now) and from 1976 and up you can get PCGS PR69DCAMS for $10-20 on eBay. I like to collect Clads and Silvers. I love dimes (roosies, mercs, and barbers) and after reading this thread, I'm going to start my own registry set. Thanks, coinguy89 for making this thread!

I have some Roosie questions myself...

What's the minimum optimal grade for pre-1964 proofs and mid sixties SMS in PR, CAM, and/or DCAM?

How difficult is it to obtain PCGS PR69DCAM in 1968-1974?

Is the designation, NGC FT the same as PCGS FB?

coinguy89

Yeah, Im thinking of just getting slabbed PCGS MS-65 or better silvers, and then with the clad go for however high, i can afford(also PCGS). Im also gonna try to get the varieties and errors, that I can. Maybe ill be able to make a nice registry set. The whole process will take awhile, and much money, but I think it will defeintly be worth it. A great goal for both of us to set. Yeah someone answer the questions he had, cause I would like to know too.

cladking

<< <i>

What's the minimum optimal grade for pre-1964 proofs and mid sixties SMS in PR, CAM, and/or DCAM? >>



Pr-68 CAMs should be fairly cheap for the main part, though the CAM designation
will be a little tough on a few of these. The SMS coins are business strikes and the
high grade coins tend to be pretty scarce. The '65 will prove especially tough with
cameo.


<< <i>
How difficult is it to obtain PCGS PR69DCAM in 1968-1974? >>



Some of these are pretty tough in top grades.



<< <i>
Is the designation, NGC FT the same as PCGS FB? >>



NGC's FT is a little harder to get than PCGS's FB. There will be a lot of overlap in
the specific coins which get a designation.

GoYankees

Thanks onlyroosies and cladking for your input.

And a very special thanks to Bill Jones for making my day.

By the way, Bill, I used to work across the street from Fenway Park.

100proof1957

Call R & I coins
800-753-2646
Ricks older book"Cameo and Brilliant Proof coinage of the 50 to 70 era"
was on sale for 14.00 shipped.
i found it very informative !
should answer alot of ? about proof roosies

Proof