Proof pics: Three techniques, same coin.

mgoodm3

Here are three ways that I have found acceptable for taking modern proofs. It's a PR67CAM. I'm inclined to take #1 and one of either #2 or #3 for modern proofs.

#1 nice for mirrors and cameo. I shoot this looking down a tube of white paper a little bigger than the coin. Tube's kinda like toilet paper roll in shape but shorter.




#2 Pure reflected light. Like coin is a mirror and looking directly at light through it.




#3 Part reflected light as above but with additional lighting from above for shadows and highlights (technique I've been using for MS coins lately).

JrGMan2004

Interesting... quite interesting... something I'll have to play around with...

wayneherndon

I think I understand what you are doing with #1 but could you give more details on #2 and #3?

Thanks,

WH

mgoodm3

#2 I use a tensor light with a sheet of white paper over it to diffuse it. The camera is at an angle of maybe 15 degrees to the coin. The light is off the coin by 15 degrees the other way so if the slab is a mirror you are looking through the mirror at the light. The key is to make that light diffuse and even over the whole coin.




#3 just adds two lights above for shadows and highlights. I'm kinda thinking #3 is a little more lively looking than #2 for me.

ss350camaro

can you show a view of your set-up for #1 ?

Thanks

JrGMan2004

Yeah... I like #1 and #3... #1 to show the mirrors and any cameo, #3 to show detail and even luster too...

Kriek

Wow, interesting techniques - thanks!

kieferscoins

#1 is the best since collectors wanna see the CAM or DCAM if the coin has it.

Cameron Kiefer

mgoodm3

here's what #1 looks like. It's a bit fiddling to get it looking nice but works pretty well. Light the tube up with a couple lights. The nice thing about it is that it avoids reflections off of everything but the lens, which makes for a nice black mirror.

Lakesammman

What's the pliers for - planning on cracking it out??

Which coin to you is the best representation of the coin in hand??

mgoodm3

I think that all 3 can be reproduced by looking at the coin from various angles. I think #1 is like looking at the coin straight in a room with a dark background. I think that #3 is more realistic to looking at the mirror in normal lighting, a mixture of direct and indirect light. #2 is more like looking at the coin in the reflection of your computer screen.

i take two pics of all my proofs now, because one pic doesn't capture the essence of the coin. I think those pics will be #1 and #3 for moderns. For older proofs, like IHC's, without much cameo, #2 and #3 do a nice job showing the coin off.

#3



#2

ss350camaro

Thanks Mark. That was very educational.
I'll have to give them a try once i upgrade to a nicer Digital Camera

lava

awesome, thanks for sharing

matteproof

Superb info and photos! Question. How do you “snap” the photo on the camera itself? The camera appears to be “fixed” and in an awkward position for actually snapping the photo. Are you using some sort of “extension” to the camera for actually snapping the photo? Thanks! Matteproof

Sequitur

That camera looks like the Olympus 5050. It has a remote, which you should use when taking supermacro photos, as it lessens camera movement. Very handy.

matteproof

Hi sequitor. Thank you for the info about a "remote." The camera I use is the Nikon 995. It did not come with a "remote." Do you happen to know if a remote can be purchased for the Nikon 995? I would love to finally be rid of the dreaded "camera shake" in my photos. Thanks! matteproof

Barry

Matte - I have the Coolpix 4500, which is the successor to the 995, I believe. There is a Macro mode and a Timed Macro mode in my camera. I can set it to snap the pic either 3 or 10 secs after the shutter is pressed.

matteproof

Hi Barry. Thank you for the reply. Yes, I have used the 3 and 10 second delay on the Nikon 995. It works pretty well on a tripod - but with my shaky hands the camera still shakes a bit when I'm holding it. A "remote" device would be a perfect solution because it would be totally hands free on the camera and impossible to have any camera shake. Thank you again for the input Barry. matteproof

mgoodm3

It's a Nikon 5400. I just use the timer. It will start at 10 sec and will skip to 3 if you hit the button again. Using a timer or remote is probably the most important part of getting a sharp picture.

matteproof

Hi mgoodm3. Thank you for the info about the timer feature on the Nikon camera. I have the same feature on the Nikon 995. I'm gonna start practicing using it again - holding as steady as possible. Thanks again mgoodm3. matteproof

CoinAddict

This thread has lots of great information. I just took a few pics of some of my proof Jeffersons using method #1. They came out very nice. Now I will have to see if I can get better pics of the toned prooffs. I always have a hard time getting all of the color to show up. Do you have any suggestions?

mgoodm3

for me color is easiest with method #2. Reflected light. If the coin's slabbed you'll get some glare off of the slab, but the glare can be partially removed with increasing contrast and decreasing brightness on a photoeditor. The pictures look pretty crappy at first, but clean up pretty well. I'm going to retake a few photos tomorrow and will post a before and after shot to show how much they can be improved with software.

cosmicdebris

Great tips! Here's another for you: When imaging proofs and you really what that black and white cameo contrast get a piece of black construction paper for the coin to reflect.

lava

ttt - I thought this was cool and worthy of a ttt in case anyone missed it.