Do we count raw coins with certs when building a type set?

GottaGetCoins

Or should they ALL be raw or ALL be Certified? If Certified, ALL by the same company?

I know many will respond "do what you like", Im just looking for direction and to see what is the norm.

Example: Im building the 12 piece Gold Type Set (down from 34 then 14). I have 10 of the coins so far. Blanchard tells me not to count 4 of them because one was raw, the other 3 from ANACS.

Is this protocol?

relayer

All coins must be inside plastic. There is no other option

GottaGetCoins

So I must send one coin to get certified

1234567890

If it is for yourself. No... If it is a regestry thing. Then yes.

JrGMan2004

It all depends... my Type Set will be raw and in an album... my Mercury Short Set, contains only 1 NGC and the rest at PCGS, but if I found something I like in an NGC or ANACS holder, I'll buy it for my set... it's all what you set as your guidelines, for me it was a certified short set, '34-'45 including the 45 Micro S and 1 42/1, using only PCGS, NGC, and ANACS slabbed coins... but if you want to participate in the PCGS Registry, then obviously they all have to be in PCGS holders... but I personally won't spend the money just to cross coins for the registry set, to me, my set is the #1 JrGMan Registry Set...

mas3cf

A coin is a coin, slabbed or not!

MacCoin

why would you want to certifie coins you already have unless your type set is a registry set.. I have raw,pcgs,ngc,anacs,igc,segs,pci in my type set. I like mine set just the way it is, but I don't like buy raw coin sight unseen without a slab. thats the only reason I have so many different slabs.

BillJones

I've got a lot raw coins in my type set, especially the cheap stuff like Suzie B's and Sackies. I don't pay big bucks for these coins. If fact I cover those holes with the coins that still in my Proof sets, at least in my brain since I don't maintain a type coin album. To me it makes no sence to spend money on plastic for some that's worth less than $10.

ealandg

I've got my raw sets and my slabbed sets. I've found I can pick up the "cheapies" slabbed at shows. Lots of dealers have their "bargain basement" slabs - stuff they sent in that didn't grade high enough to be worth much. Lots of times you can pick this stuff up for less than the cost of the plastic. Dealers are just glad to get something for this stuff.

I have also cracked slabs for my albums if it is a pricier key date. I've got a low grade set of Barber dimes in an album, but there was no way I was going to buy that '95-O unslabbed since I'm not a good enough grader to be sure I wasn't going to get taken.

Anyhow, both NGC and PCGS have these registries and if you want to use them you have to have their brand of slab.

Conder101

Interesting, Blancahrd doesn't believe a coin exists unless it's slabbed and I feel that once a coin is slabbed it ceases to exist.

Tell me, why do you care whether Blanchard thinks your coins "count" or not?

jeffnpcb

My three type sets are all raw in albums. 2/3's were cracked out and inserted in the slots. They are the 1800-current in dates. I've kept the inserts in an envelope just in case I would have to sell with that information. If you want to be in a registry, be extremely cautious with the raw gold. PCGS could kick them with the usual excuse of being cleaned!

Baley

"count"? what means this "count"? counted by whom? who is this Blanchard who doesn't count?

"protocol"? I'm not gettin this... Someone else defines your collection?

I mean, sure, if you have an album or a holder or are following a book in trying to assemble a collection, well then it's "complete" when you've filled all the holes, that is to say acquired all of the pieces required.
[edited to add: ...but you may still crave "upgrades" ]

So yeah, I guess if one is guided by a registry thing or some company's sales team, then you follow their rules for whatever game they're playing. If they don't "count" raw coins or coins graded by certain other companies, (or perhaps, coins that THEY didn't sell to you?) well then that's how it is.

GottaGetCoins, if you're asking what we personally do to define a set, I'll tell you I'm working on a complete US type set including the gold, and so far I've got the Dansco gold page,



obviously all of my "albumed" coins are raw and these examples are "with motto", also have the "no motto" coronet and Saint G coins, the classic 2.5 and $5, and the princess $3, all in nice but lightly circulated condition and either raw or in Brand P or N or even [gasp!] off-brand slabs, and one capped bust half eagle which was a real stretch but I love the coin. Several of my coins (of all types, not just the gold) were purchased certified and then broken out of TPG slabs for display in an album.

Anyway, now that the newer coins are there and in decent shape, the earliest coins are proving most difficult in ANY grade, especially in a rising market. Their acquisition may have to wait for a downturn in coin prices, or an upturn in my salary, or some combination thereof. Either that or the sale of a few duplicates and less interesting pieces to achieve an AG or Good chain cent, small eagle half dollar, 18th century gold, etc. I kind of bounce around now, doing an upgrade here and finding a new type or subtype there, but don't think I will ever coinsider my collection "complete', Finshed, or whatever. For me it's an ongoing project to have a nice looking example of every type and then continually upgrade the weakest coins.

Good luck to you, you seem to have the enthusiasm!