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PCGS fall asleep on these?

Anyone else think these Buffalo's are overgraded?

1926 PCGS MS64 Buffalo Nickel


1930-S PCGS MS66 Buffalo Nickel

Both sold by the same person. Probably very happy to unload these overgraded coins on someone. Anyone else agree/disagree?
A newbie to collecting...but recognize the value of PCGS grading.

Comments

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    MrEurekaMrEureka Posts: 24,012 ✭✭✭✭✭
    They look OK to me.
    Andy Lustig

    Doggedly collecting coins of the Central American Republic.

    Visit the Society of US Pattern Collectors at USPatterns.com.
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    They look correctly graded to me....Ken
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    ElcontadorElcontador Posts: 7,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    You need to know your dates re the 26 P (didn't look at the 30S). I know that most Buffs struck at San Francisco in the 1920s were weakly struck. Is it possible that the 26P has the same problem? The reverse looks okay for the grade, but re the obverse, it could be a strike rather than a wear issue. The only way to know for sure is to see the coin & look for luster breaks.
    "Vou invadir o Nordeste,
    "Seu cabra da peste,
    "Sou Mangueira......."
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    BubbleheadBubblehead Posts: 1,621 ✭✭✭
    I dunno. I'm no expert. But, I really feel the 64 shud be AU something, and the 66 sure don't look like no 66 I've ever seen!
    JMHO... Don't jump me...(pls)
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    I have 1936-1938 Buffalo's, all MS66's. The MS64 should be AU with all the wear and flatness it shows because of it. The MS66 needs to drop to MS64 at best. Yes they are very clean looking coins, but the wear they have shouldn't keep them from the grades they received.
    A newbie to collecting...but recognize the value of PCGS grading.
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    Cam40Cam40 Posts: 8,146
    The flatness on the `26 is from a weak strike, not wear.
    Least that must be the reason it got the 64 grade.
    Common strike for some Buffalo nickels.

    I see something wrong, or appears to be wrong, with both slabs.
    The `26 in 64 has some kind of scuff or something just below LIBERTY
    near the rim. hmmmm not sure.
    And the `30 S is holdered sloppily. The ring is mal-formed at the 8-10:00 position.
    Also. I didnt know that a 1930 S Buffalo nickel was considered a `KEY-Date` ?

    Oh really?
    Okay. If the seller says so.
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    Shouldn't the grade be based on the same standards, no matter the year or factors such as the quality of strike problem a particular mint had that year?

    My comments are based on comparing them to my 1936, 2 1937's and 2 1938's. I, of course, am not an expert which is why I asked the question.
    A newbie to collecting...but recognize the value of PCGS grading.
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    Cam40Cam40 Posts: 8,146
    That is why grading coins is so tough. Each coin of each denomination of each year of each minting facility has its own set of characteristics.
    Not all coins are on an equal playing field as far a grading goes.
    Its a toughy.
    Peace dollars for example are tough this way.
    Ever seen a 1921 Peace in MS 65 ?
    Heck, They look like AU55s most of the time with all that flatness over the ear.
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    DHeathDHeath Posts: 8,472 ✭✭✭
    Shouldn't the grade be based on the same standards, no matter the year or factors such as the quality of strike problem a particular mint had that year?

    No, and it never is. Many dates/mm have differing characteristics, and grade is based on the coin's quality relative to the best known examples of that date/mm, factoring those characteristics. CC-Morgans are given lots of latitude.
    Developing theory is what we are meant to do as academic researchers
    and it sets us apart from practitioners and consultants. Gregor
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    ElcontadorElcontador Posts: 7,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Mkrone,

    CAM40 got this right. Especially with older coins, you must know your series before starting to grade them. I think the 38 D was probably the uniformly best struck Buffalo Nickel. If you used that standard to grade all Buffs, I bet you wouldn't have a single 24 S classified as Unc.

    Ditto re judging the SLQs by the 17P Type I. This coin is easy to find fully struck, not just with a full head.
    If you used this sort of standard, you'd have a very difficult time finding many dates that would qualify as Unc.

    Lastly, take the 1887 P Dime. For some reason, it comes with incomplete detail on Miss Liberty's head in all grades I've seen. This is not so with the 86 P, or any other late dates I've seen re Seated Dimes.
    "Vou invadir o Nordeste,
    "Seu cabra da peste,
    "Sou Mangueira......."
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    jdimmickjdimmick Posts: 9,617 ✭✭✭✭✭
    the 26-P looks Ms-63 and dull.

    The 30-s looks 65 at best, I dont like the striking to classify as a 66.
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    Cam40Cam40 Posts: 8,146
    the 26-P looks Ms-63 and dull.


    The 30-s looks 65 at best, I dont like the striking to classify as a 66.

    I totally agree with that.

    BTW I just love it when more than one of the `big guys` say they agree with ME.
    Wow, What a ego boost that is. image
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    Cam40Cam40 Posts: 8,146
    probably because i,m just parroting what they taught me. imageimage
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    From looking at my ANA Grading Standards book, the difference from AU and MS, is not necessarilly how sharp the details of the coin are. But more, on the wear and the break in the luster... you could in all technicallity's have an extremely weak strike, but it be MS-70, especially if a date/mm is universally known for extremely weak strikes. Like others said, it's also compared againest some of the best known examples of a coin. If a coin is known for a strong strikes, then a weak strike won't grade as well, a coin known for a weak strike that has a relatively strong strike will grade well... but as many have said, it's very subjective and can vary from person to person...

    BTW, 100th Post for me!!!
    -George
    42/92
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    nwcsnwcs Posts: 13,387 ✭✭✭
    The ANA grading standard book is not designed to help someone grade mint state coins. Only seeing lots of mint state coins can help. As was said earlier, each date/mint's characteristics are taken into account when grading. The grade isn't relative across the whole series but all other coins within the same date/mint. One thing I recommend is the ANA Grading class that the ANA offers. Excellent class and the graders (usually NGC and PCGS) are very good at helping you interpret a coin's characteristics to determine a grade and to explain why a coin grades as it does.
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    Those 2 Buffalos are accurately graded IMHO.
    The 64 is even an upper end 64.
    The 66 is a lower end 66 but still a good MS66.
    PCGS gets it wrong far less than any other service but this is not one of those times.
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    BladeBlade Posts: 1,744
    Grading is absolutely dependent on date and MM. I thought about creating a grading reference set for Buffalos, but after much advice realized it would take 4-5 generic sets for groups of dates, and even then there would be exceptions for certain mintmarks.

    Check this out from a recent thread. Here is a PCGS MS62 1926-D Buffalo. OK, I'm not a fan of the spot either, but look at the strike. PCGS graded this mint state and the Buffalo's horn is almost completely missing, as is any detail on the hide. So you really can't judge these coins unless you have looked at many, many mint state coins of the same date. Now, if it's lacking eye appeal, then you could contest the MS66 no matter what the strike is IMO.

    1926-D Buffalo PCGS MS62 - weak strike
    Tom

    NOTE: No trees were killed in the sending of this message. However, a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.

    Type collector since 1981
    Current focus 1855 date type set
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    Cam40Cam40 Posts: 8,146
    The ANA grading standard book is not designed to help someone grade mint state coins. Only seeing lots of mint state coins can help.

    I thought that bears repeating.
    Excellent point on grading MS coins and reference to them.
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    Both coins are correctly graded. image
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    RELLARELLA Posts: 961 ✭✭✭
    Strike is fine for both coins at the assigned grades. Luster and surfaces look to be all there, too. Mintluster is right on the 64 being nice but I wouldn't try it for 65 due to the strike unless it has more of everything else...would have to see it in person.

    Most importantly, these are SCANS we're looking at. The most killer, wild rainbow colors, dripping with luster Superb Gem specimen is going to look dull in most scans.

    Go scan your most lustrous nickel and your most colorful nickel and compare the scans to the real coins and then extrapolate what these two look like in real life; I think you'll be a bit surprised at what you decide then.

    Many scans will also make a Buffalo look like an even weaker strike than it is, but won't change that as much as they will change other characteristics.

    Grading MS Buffalos accurately from scans is a fool's game...maybe even more than it is for other series.

    RELLA
    Do not fall into the error of the artisan
    who boasts of twenty years experience in his craft
    while in fact he has had only one year of experience...
    twenty times.

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