Which coins have the least markup?

Higashiyama

Or, said differently, if you buy a coin and immediately try to sell it back to the dealer community, on which coin(s) will you take the smallest hit?

mbbiker

I would say any SAE's or GAE's

coinlieutenant

I would say percentage wise, the rarer and nicer the coin the less hit you take, to an extent. Dollar wise, you probably wont lose much on an XF 1942 Mercury dime.

In all actuality that is a very complex question that depends on alot of variables (grade, series, dealer, slabbed/unslabbed) and would take too long for my fingers to recover for tomorrow from all the typing.

John

MrEureka

In general? The most expensive coins with the least long term potential.

Examples:

1907 High Relief $20 in 63-65
Pan Pac $50 in anything up to 64
Common date proof gold in anything significantly short of "top pop".

All of the above examples are probably "good value" and could very easily go up, but their upside is limited.

Coulport

Junk silver.

michael

xf exceptionally eye appealling problem free coins 1877 cents 1872 cents 1937 d buffs
1913 s quarters 1916 d dimes 1942/1 dimes 1918/7 buffs and standers

the list goes on and on

sincerely michael

baccaruda

junk silver or foreign gold.

you can buy it at maybe 5% over spot and sell it back at 5% under.

joejeweler

I'd say ANY monster toned "key" date Type coin in a NGC or PCGS MS63-64 holder that you can "rip" at blue sheet prices!

I've found some coins like that..........but still waiting for the "rip"!

Truthfully.....even at "fair" prices (paid) key monsters should be fairly liquid at a reasonable price spread buy to sell. I'll let you know how that works out when i need to sell, though!

Joe T

BillJones

Lowest mark-up - bullion gold, $20 gold pieces, often times very expensive coins by the percentages.

Highest mark-up - real cheap stuff (the cost of holders, inventory and your time play a big role here), rare or unique tokens that many collectors want. When you are holding a piece that many collectors want, and you know who they are, you are in line for a nice pay day. And the happy part is they won't get mad at you because in some cases they have been waiting for years to have a shot at some of these pieces.

coinguy1

I have a different answer/approach to the question. I say it depends on who you buy the coin from, what you pay for it and who you later try to sell it to, not just which coin or coin type you purchase.

If you buy the wrong coin from the right seller (who sells it to you at a fair price) it can be a problem.

If you buy the wrong coin from the wrong seller (who charges you too much for it) it can be a bigger problem.

If you buy the right coin from the wrong seller (who charges you too much for it) it can be a problem.

If you buy the right coin from the right seller (who charges you a fair price for it) but later try to sell it to the wrong buyer, it can be a problem.

Regardless of what coin you buy and whether you buy it at a fair price or not, when it comes time to sell, if you attempt to sell it to the wrong person the odds are against you.

Finding the right person or company to buy a coin from and the right person or company to later sell it to, can be as important as the selection of the coin, itself.